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would definitely check codes as enigma said, the shifter switch is known to go bad, but it could be a range sensor issue as well. parts store scanners should pull up any powertrain codes, but best to equip yourself for the long run with an OBD II adapter and Forscan Lite and/or Torque Pro software.

best of luck, lets see what they say.

not on a 2015, but on some 2015s. the torque converter housing seal has leaked. case seal has leaked on older MYs, but none that i know of on the 6f55 yet.

PATS should slow blink until the vehicle is successfully started (iirc), if all is well. So not blinking at all MAY be an issue here.

was it a valencia or a cleveland build?

check recalls with your VIN on owner.ford.com or nhtsa.gov in order: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pIEbcQdEaHPj857mm_6cEfy_tLAa4ALe/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kk62ECuc83wLo4u0tC1xPCdwn977SIPR/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yC9oks7zhEhxsJzl45Pinxxdq4GbNBss/view?usp=sharing Description of Defect : Description of the Defect : Vehicles that did not receive proper application of wax coating that are operated in high-corrosion environments associated with exposure to road salt may experience corrosion of the steering gear motor attachment bolts. This may result in the steering gear motor becoming loose or detaching from the gear housing, although the steering gear motor will not separate from the vehicle. Ford is not aware of any reports of accidents or injuries related to this condition. Description of the Safety Risk : Steering gear motor detachment from the gear housing would result in a loss of power steering assist. The steering system would default to base manual steering mode, allowing the vehicle to be steered in a safe and controlled manner. The amount of assist supplied is inversely proportional to vehicle speed, with the highest levels of assist provided at lower vehicle speeds. Loss of power steering assist would require higher steering effort, especially at lower speeds, which may result in an increased risk of a crash. Description of the Cause : A corrective action was implemented to apply a wax coating to the steering gear bolts and interfacing surface of the steering gear. Testing has shown that the wax coating is effective at preventing corrosion when properly applied. Vehicle field inspection shows that the wax coating was inconsistently applied. Identification of Any Warning that can Occur : Partial separation of the motor from the steering gear housing may result in motor whine, clunking noises, and illumination of the Electronic Stability Control and Traction Control malfunction indicator lamps. Supplier Identification : Component Manufacturer Name : Bosch Address : 15 Spiral Drive Florence KENTUCKY 41042 Country : United States

you can look up parts that fit your specific configuration, and then check to see if they fit any other configuration. like does an ST part fit the 2.0 also. if so, you have cross-fitment and can look to see if there are aftermarket parts that fit the ST. the aftermarket is still poor, but on this forum, many custom items have been developed for the 2015-2018 sport. if the ST item also fits the 2015-2018 sport along with the 2.0, that will make your quest much easier. the dealer catalogs will show you crossfitments. always anticipate some minor fitment issues tho, not insurmountable, but the way it goes with custom stuff. https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/ P.S.: be SURE the part fits the Edge/MKX/Nautilus ... do not assume a Fusion/MKZ part will fit this platform.

haven't seen any mentioned for the 3.5 platform, but there have been oddball leaks at transmission lines where they are rubbing (on older gen vehicles). oil pressure switch might be something to look at. if oil was recently changed, check to make sure the filter is on tight/not doublegasketed. you don't have hydraulic steering, otherwise i would have said power steering hose ...

what MY is your vehicle? could be a range sensor or a shifter switch going bad. it is an electronically controlled transmission, so these glitches should not actually cause a physical problem, but you never know. sidebar: have you checked battery health lately? could be prompting this issue.

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=drive+shaft+bearing+replacement+ start here

look up dealer catalogs to see what part goes across different powertrains/drive configurations. you might get lucky. addco has been a popular custom mfr of swaybars on this platform. you could call them up.

the cyclone engines run hot, that's just what they do. the tight packaging doesn't help either.

just for fun ... people in the detailing world will probably laugh at it, lol.

this should help somewhat. it is a tight space, but doable without removing anything major. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sM8W0qzwhGU

and lots of fuel in the oil too. extended oil change intervals NOT recommended. stick to 5K/6 month intervals with full synthetic engine oil (SuperTech or any Warren Distribution oil is fine). if you regularly smell fuel in the oil, you may even want to up it to 10W30 instead of 5W30, but test the used oil first.

too bad the gen 1's don't have an FP PID like the 2011+ do. would make checking fuel pressure SO easy. but i would definitely advocated doing this check before going to the heartache of replacing the CKP sensor.

2010 Ford Edge Fuel System Pressure Test.pdf

Left and Right are references to a longtiudinal engine as viewed from the driver seat. so bank 2 would be left, bank 1 would be right hand. Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor Item Part Number Description 1 W701542 Heat shield nut 2 W701669 Heat shield bolt 3 6K342 Heat shield 4 6C070 Rubber grommet cover 5 14A464 Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor electrical connector 6 6D327 CKP sensor bolt 7 6C315 CKP sensor Removal and Installation With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 . Remove the LH catalytic converter. For additional information, refer to Section 309-00 . Remove the bolt, nut and the heat shield. To install, tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in). Remove the rubber grommet cover. Disconnect the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor electrical connector. Remove the bolt and the CKP sensor. To install, tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in). To install, reverse the removal procedure.

does say laminated glass. maybe they moved away from the brand name Soundscreen. https://www.reliableglassaz.com/carlite-soundscreen-glass/

have not seen a no start condition due to plugs, but let's wait and see if the problem is indeed resolved. usually misfires will show up before then. i did not have misfires on my 2007, but the plugs were around 0.087 at the time. gen 1.5 seems to eat plugs slower than gen 1's lol, but i see misfires even on those engines. do you have pics of the old plugs for reference? wanted to see if the coating on them was normal, or indicated oil/fuel issues. it should be all or nothing IMHO with these engines. if it IS a spark problem, then maybe we should check the strength of that spark also, set a baseline for the new plugs.

have you checked codes? may need a new filler neck if the valves in it are bad. the canister vent valve is under the cabin, the purge valve is under the hood. i believe someone mentioned on this forum you can use a fusion 2.0 purge valve instead, but you do have to get the connectors off the old purge valve first.

there are 2 possible issues, among others. 1) the turbo quit, coding P0299 in its wake, or 2) there is coolant intrusion (check the level in the reservoir/degas bottle after cooldown/on level ground). people turbo their vehicles at higher elevations / thinner air conditions to make up for that power loss. i don't think what you had happen was normal in a functioning system. unless the engine was overheating beyond the PCM's ability to handle it, should not have been a limp home event. were you monitoring the live data from the OBD port at the time?

Diagnostics for lo or hi beam inoperative - would be easy if it were the multifunction switch or a relay ... 2011-2014 Edge MKX _also 2015__Low or High Beams inoperative.pdf

check for accident history, specifically front end damage. very common for ambient temp issues to crop up after that. the reset above will work for dual climate control systems, not sure about manual systems. ambient lighting is run through the hvac module strangely enough lol. but assuming that you have Sync/8" screen to go with, you should look into updating the software to revision 3.10, the best and final, which fixed the ambient lighting software issue. now if there is a hardware issue, that's another matter.

how old is the command start? any way to take it out of the equation? have heard such units start to do weird things as they age.