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I think autom8r had last provided pics of the process??? The engine bay work isn't so bad, but the interior definitely has you doing the twist & shout! http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/20963-bad-brake-booster/page-2?do=findComment&comment=161581

Every little bit helps!

A catch can was a very good idea even on the Yamaha SHOs

Looks great, especially with all the beading!

Driver's side axle seal leaks do happen across Ford's model lines. Passenger side seal leaks not so much unless the vehicle is AWD. The tone ring on the driver's side axle also is known to crack, which requires replacement of the axle.

Hope he's not rolling coal, LOL! As far as pics, you select MORE REPLY OPTIONS at the bottom right of the reply box. That allows to find and attach files to your reply. If you are using a mobile device to do this, you may have to switch the browser's display to Desktop Site / select the FULL VERSION button to see this option.

The evaporator drain is much easier to get at than the evaporator itself, so get that cleaned out first. Can of compressed air works well. There are kits that will allow you to send foaming cleaners up the upper half of the drain and clean it that way. You have to be able to get the straw quite far up the pipe tho.

The fouling is a gradual problem in Ford's case, and has been touted as the least severe of any of the auto mfrs worldwide. Also, depending on platform, the problem may be statistically minimal. In the case of the F150, the catch can setup is highly recommended. Whereas in the case of the SHO, very very few cases of a catch can being needed have emerged, especially since the valve cover redesign in 2013. Best way to know if you have an issue with your vehicle is to periodically inspect the turbo piping and the intercooler for pooling oil. A misting is normal, pooling is not.

Dusty, if you are willing for your Edge to be a "lab rat", you can talk to/message Mike Bambic / EcoPowerParts.com, see if he can set up a custom whatever-you-need that evolves into a group buy. He has developed aux fueling including PFI setup for the SHO 3.5EB, and that is just one of many performance upgrades he came up with. He also worked with Black Market Racing in the past, not sure if he still does. Based in AZ.

Welcome & congrats on your quirky purchase! Be sure to put up some pics of the new ride! First Ford?

We have a few 2013+ SHOs running with the stock fuel pump on E blends up to E30. Supposedly the specs on the system conform to E85 usage, so there should be no degradation. The hope is that the system on the Edge is also E85 compliant, so E blending would not be an issue, but one would have to look through Ford's published documentation for that. Livernois has released an upgraded HPFP for the F150 3.5, one for the SHO is up next. Enough demand needs to be there for the Edge, then they would begin working on that, expect cost to be around 1,600$ and that the appearance cover may not fit afterwards. https://www.livernoismotorsports.com/product/LPP501117

If you can be patient for the first 1000 miles, not a bad idea We don't have any data one way or the other. But if we are to believe production tolerances have improved so much, and/or break in is done at the factory, the payoff might be further down the road than with engines in the past.

Does this help? http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/15389-front-wheel-bearing-diy-job/?do=findComment&comment=137837

The only downside I know of is Sync will not be retained. Otherwise, any number of car audio websites can tell you if the unit will physically fit or not.

If a MAF is dirty or damaged, you will easily feel the difference. It not only measures air flow but air temperature. So if cleaning doesn't work, try replacing it. Don't try to get cheapo units off eBay that don't come in an original box/packaging, btw. I tried this twice with no success. Ultimately had to get a new (Hitachi) MAF, and it has made a significant impact on power as well as shifting, yes, shifting. The TCM/trans solenoids rely on MAF data as one input for shifting.

How many miles on your 2008? It could be sensors or wiring, but might indeed be a timing chain issue. Are you seeing symptoms or just a code, and under what conditions? Actually a wide variety of reasons for this possibly. Also, AFAIK, there is 1 camshaft position sensor (CPS) per bank, 1 crankshaft position sensor (CKS) for the entire engine, and 1 VCT solenoid per bank. VCT solenoid failure, timing chain stretch, and the occasional CKS failure are known to happen. If the timing chain needs R&R, change the water pump also as it is driven by the timing chain. You can try unplugging the VCT solenoid on bank 1 with the neg batt cable disconnected for 15-30 minutes, then plugging it back in. Let the vehicle relearn. Same with the CPS on Bank 1. The VCT solenoid is on the top of the left side of the valve cover, the CPS to the right of the valve cover.

Since ethanol is 2/3 as energy dense as gasoline, you have to pump more of it to get the same output from the engine. So yes there is some minor loss of power along with mpg. This is a rather simplistic view, because ethanol by itself has an octane rating of 104. E10 helps improve the burn rate of gaoline, so it kinda makes up for energy density loss. But the real benefits of ethanol in power come after you cross the E15 threshold. More timing advance AND less knock retard. Most obvious, again, at higher speeds and rpm ranges. And more benefits to forced induction engines, where knock retard is all-important. This of course assumes your fuel system components are ethanol resistant and the fuel pump's pumping capacity is increased to accommodate. MPG will drop, of course, but the (generally) lower cost of E at the pump helps alleviate some of the pain to the wallet. http://www.ethanolproducer.com/articles/8858/octane-whats-in-your-fuel

Have them cost out the timing chains & VCT solenoids also while it is apart. These do make a significant impact on smoothness. Have you tracked the fuel trims and/or VCT advance errors?

Sorry to hear, Paul! Although I must admit, you have a bit of a Sherlockian thing going on there, tasting the evidence ...

Good time to upgrade to the Motorcraft Specialty Green coolant from the Gold

Yup, doing all that. So far so good. Only (negative) seen is the oil is 1 qt low. Working on figuring that out ...

IDK if that's what you want to do on your DD, maybe on a showpiece, and then only with lowering springs ...

Just looking through manuals and brochures each time

Check the tire pressures, but it does sound like possible water intrusion into the fuseboxes. Since you say there are no codes, I would start there, along with a test on the vehicle battery. Most electrical gremlins turn out due to be a weak battery (need a digital batt tester like the Solar BA7). Some are due to actual parts failure (usually a switch in a component).