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The filter sock doesn't really impeded flow to any significant degree. It is there to keep the filter from getting soiled easily, all the more important in an open box configuration. Functional AND eye candy.

Warranty is time/mileage (3/36K) from date of sale, so dblchk just in case. Could be a throttle body issue or a MAF sensor issue. TB issue is known to happen with 2011-14 MYs so next time an event happens, check for codes without turning the engine off once you are at a stop. Some codes will be erased with an engine restart, that's why I ask not to turn the engine off. Another reason in older MYs was the transmission. Sometimes a recalibration fixes it, sometimes a part has to be modified/replaced. You can also try a KAM reset to make the PCM relearn everything. Finally, check the battery, it may be dying and causing errant behavior to occur. You are in the sweet spot for OEM battery failure. CCAs are what we go by, not battery voltage. Voltage is deceiving. A digital tester or a Solar BA7/9 is needed.

Here's to hoping it holds!

Add filter socks to the above, and you should be golden.

Could be a brake dust shield that is bent, or rocks caught in there, but why it stops when it is raining, IDK. You said the caliper slide pins were serviced?

very common to have the stoplamp switch be the issue. while replacing the booster, you have to be really careful with that switch. Easy to mess up.

The vent (AFAIK) CAN be removed, but IDK about putting a new vent on or replacing the old vent. Someone on this forum may have done it though, I will have to look. If you do take the vent off, it might be possible to retrofit a Taurus vent extension kit on there so it ends in the engine bay and the risk of submersion is greatly reduced.

Hard Q to answer. I would not do anything that involves running the engine. So if you wanted to, drain the cooling system, replace with new coolant (universal extended life is ok, though oem is best). Similarly, an oil change won't hurt either. If you can do this at the storage facility (which I assume is close by), that would be best. Hope your personal situation improves.

To keep overall height the same https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc If installing a taller wheel/tire combo, you will need to update the PCM.

Hard to say. If you noticed it right away and did not drive it after that? Redemption is possible. But if it turned chocolatey and/or sludgey, you will definitely be flushing for a long time, and would be better off with a rebuild, or a "new" engine given time & expense. Depending on mileage of the "new" engine, would perform the water pump replacement on that as well just to tick that box.

2011+ Edge units have a feature called the Battery Management System. Any time you put in a new battery, the computer has to relearn the battery characteristics. Otherwise it will think the old battery is still in place and recharge it that way. So your new battery will not get charged properly. I would charge up the battery with an external smart battery charger, then let the Edge sit for at least 8 hrs overnight so the PCM can relearn the battery. Might take it a while to charge, depending on depth of discharge, so if you cannot be without the Edge for let's say a day, I would take it in to the dealership to reset the BMS instead. $$ but that would be the tradeoff. As noted above, aftermarket electronics that need to stay alive after engine shutoff can drain a battery. So can a funky CD player or shifter or door latch on this generation of Edge.

Building up oil pressure takes a bit more time when cold. Running an OEM oil filter will also minimize rattle issues due to the placement of the ADB valve. From the video it sounds minor enough to be normal. That said, if the rattle becomes more extended, everything else being the same, i would look to the timing chain as the culprit. Yes, this happens in not only the F150 but other EB model lines as well.

Make repairpal.com, yelp.com, and dealerrater.com. I.E., do your research, and you can find a good non-dealer shop to work with. Cheaper that way. And change the timing chains/phasers while in there (keep the old parts). What is the coolant change history? Ford says first around 105K I think, then every 60K, so at least 2 changes should have been done by now. I feel the first change comes too late, but that's just me.

As per the owner manual, the PTU should not be submerged in water, i.e., do not drive the Edge through highwater/standing water conditions. FWD would be OK, but not AWD in such circumstances. Water could enter the PTU, contaminate the oil, and ruin the PTU.

Circumstances, and the starting point, will dictate the schedule. If you start with known good fluid, that is what the service intervals are useful for. If you are trying to resolve an existing problem, then always think in terms of Special Operating Conditions, ie, stricter/shorter schedules.

Personally, since you do live in a hot part of the country, I would at least inspect every year. If you can change it every year, even better. IF the fluid remains freeflowing each time, 3/36 would be a good rule of thumb for change. Assuming nothing happens on a regular basis that would qualify for Special Operating Conditions. A sample sent to Blackstone would let you know where you stand wrt PTU health.

that the Gen 1 (2007-10) and Gen 1.5 (2011-14) pumps for the 3.5/3.7 have a few differences. The Gen 1 pump has 1 row of teeth, the 1.5 has 2. The vanes are also different. macbwt can go into more detail. Motorcraft PW538 or AA5Z-8501-D for Gen 1 Motorcraft PW515 or DG1Z-8501-A for Gen 1.5

Camshaft codes are usually caused by bad sensors/phasers/poor lubrication. So though the oil may look ok to you, it may in fact be contaminated and breaking down, for example. Unfortunately these pumps don't give much warning. If the engine overheats, best/safest to assume a bad pump is behind it. The computer has a strategy, limp home if you will, to air cool the engine in case it gets too hot. So overheating ... yeah, not good. Seems the seals (part metal) give way over time. So changing the coolant regularly (not at 100K etc) might prolong the life, but no idea, just theory.

You need to do the "flush" at least 3/4 times in a row at very short intervals to get it looking/running good. Plus do not allow the PTU to submerge. Were there metallic particles in the PTU? Have you checked to see if maybe trans fluid is leaking into the PTU?

Unfortunately, it is VERY likely. Luckily not failed yet, but guaranteed to do so if you keep driving the edge. sloshing sound is from clogged evaporator drain, nothing to do with coolant. Simple to unplug the drain with a can of compressed air. the line runs along the driver side center console panel near the gas pedal. pull back carpet to expose the tube and the joint. have a container handy to contain the water that runs out once the joint is taken apart. compressed air into the lower half of the tube should unclog it. don't be stingy with the air. service regularly for best results. There are products like KOOLIT to help clean out the evaporator (through the upper part of the drain tube) if you so desire. Also check the cabin air filter as the water can backflow into the filter and blower motor.

Awesome sauce, omar!

No 9012/HIR2 upgrades, really, the options you have in halogens are listed on this page: http://store.candlepower.com/hir29upfor90.html

akirby, stop badmouthing Ford, or else. LOL LOL LOL ...

:(

You would think wired would be good, but I guess not!