WWWPerfA_ZN0W

Welcome and congrats! Pics to share? as with any edge, regardless of powertrain, the first thing to do is establish a baseline by changing all fluids, replacing spark plugs/pcv valve, and cleaning maf/map sensor/throttle body. best of luck!

you can safely use LEDs or HIDs in your 2018 halogen housings. the only caveat is to make sure you re-aim the headlamps so as to maintain proper cutoff. you can see how the competing products rate at the website above. as always, quality comes at a cost, but runofthemill offerings are pretty decent these days.

very likely throttle body issue. common mostly on 2011s, but does happen on other gen 1.5s. code is only stored till successful restart, so to catch it, you have to read codes before attempting a restart.

you must be looking at videos for the 3.5/3.7 lol. the pump is external on any of the ecoboosts deployed on the edge/mkx platform. good luck with the control valve.

did not state mileage, but coolant pump could be failing. not too bad to change it, so that's one thing. could be a temperature control valve as well. engine gets up to temperature quickly, no problems on that end?

what year is your edge? 2007-2010 have reflectors in the housings, 2011+ have projectors. projectors are more forgiving of what type of bulb you put in there. bulbfacts.com (headlight revolution on YT) can help guide you on buying the appropriate product for your vehicle. by no means all encompassing, but will get you on the right track.

probably just as powerful if not more than the ole pro lol. hopefully you did not lose any data. time to start building up my parts bin for a near future gen 2 sport purchase

well, as with any other well known problem that ford has issued tsbs but not recalls for, keep the bills handy, explore options with legal counsel to get recompensed. i would not give up on the legal angle. the coolant level should have been dropping, there may be a misfire with or without code, and the plug in the misfiring cylinder as well as the piston/valves should look remarkably clean.

those r some saucy pics right there. i see you put some insulation as well? best of luck, hope it runs well and runs hard.

computer crashed bigtime. haven't built one since 2014, so it took a while to regain my footing. still on windows 7 lol, will be migrating to 10 soon. the wife's office was giving away some machines, and am real happy we nabbed some! lot of custom configuration, but it is up and running and working beautifully.

work with ford corporate to see if they will share the cost of the new engine with you. be nice but firm. you never know. sometimes you can find a law firm that has filed suit for this problem and request a mediation if ford is not forthcoming just to you.

yes it would or rather it would make it consistent. even with insulation from Home Depot ? been done and proven on the SHO over at ecoboostperformanceforum.com.

can you tell the location of the noise? for example, fuel pump will come from the rear/hatch area. ptu will come from front passenger side. if you drive with windows up, you may want to lower them one at a time till you can more closely locate the sound. when was transmission fluid last serviced? can certainly be wheel bearings, so check if turning left/right makes a difference. check for air leaks in the engine bay.

many things can leak. brake hoses at the calipers or at the M/C / hcu, or the M/C into the booster. so def make sure the system is properly inspected. btw, brake hoses original to the vehicle have almost NEVER been an issue on 2007-2014 MYs. However, replacements, even OEM sometimes, have been problematic once or twice, especially at the M/C. expect fluid level to go down in the reservoir as the pads wear. that is natural. what is not natural is sudden, large drops in fluid level. also, the fluid level should never be above the MAX line on the reservoir, except when performing a flush.

NOTE: Make sure that 2 new linked washers are installed. NOTE: Both water outlet tube clamps must be installed between the 2 paint stripes on hoses. Tighten to 28 Nm (21 lb-ft). NOTE: Make sure that 4 new turbocharger oil supply pipe gaskets are installed. Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft). NOTE: Make sure that a new turbocharger oil drain tube is installed. By not doing so, the turbocharger oil drain tube may leak and cause engine damage. Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in). NOTE: Make sure that 4 new turbocharger-to-cylinder head studs, 4 new turbocharger nuts and a new turbocharger gasket are installed. Tighten to 50 Nm (37 lb-ft) in the sequence shown.

Fuel System: Ethanol content in the fuel Fuel filter plugged or dirty Damaged or worn fuel pump Leaking fuel pump check valve Leaking or contaminated fuel injectors Low fuel pressure or running out of fuel Evaporative emission (EVAP) canister purge valve is leaking when the canister is clean Fuel supply line restricted Fuel rail pressure (FRP) sensor bias Exhaust System: Exhaust leaks in the exhaust manifold gasket or mating gaskets before or near the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) EGR System: Vacuum hose disconnected on exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system module (ESM) applications EGR valve tube or gasket leak EGR vacuum regulator solenoid leak Intake Air System: Air leaks after the mass air flow (MAF) sensor Vacuum leaks Positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system is leaking or the valve is stuck open Incorrectly seated engine oil dipstick Intake air turbulence due to incorrect air filter Damaged or contaminated MAF sensor

SSM 49769 SSM 49769_2019-2021 Edge Nautilus with AWD may exhibit a noise vibration chatter shudder grind bind from the rear of the vehicle during low speed turning events_reprogram.pdf

well, it is understandable why cobb is doing what they are doing, not being a large operation like Ford. onyx makes some great suggestions, hopefully we can figure a way out. but i am thinking we will have to make this part on our own for the community. @macbwt can certainly help if you need CNC machining contacts.

as enigma noted. also, people continue to fall for the maintenance intervals. always consider not only the mileage but the time elapsed. your vehicle is nearly 10 years old. it should have had its fluids changed at least once, if not twice, by now.

if that is the only code you are getting, it is worth a try replacing the injector. put in a new motorcraft plug, right? no oil or fuel on the electrodes? also test all the coils to make sure they are within a narrow range of resistance values from each other.

any full synthetic is fine, but these engines seem to prefer "thicker" oils such as from Shell, Castrol, Mobil1 etc. you can see SN rated producer characteristics on this spreadsheet: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1gEMTa3YOBIYBTYiaEhQLfooPohN_l645z1DaWRuFzC0/ and it carries through even with the SP and SN+ rated oils. you can even move up to 5W30 with no worries.

has worked well for the factory, that is exactly what they do.

probably time to replace the battery.

sorry, no idea, other than reading codes. many issues over the years since 2015. Think I need to start an emblem business to replace "Edge" with "Glitch".

speaking of wider tires, you could have tramlining issues if the roads have "deficits". https://www.tireamerica.com/resource/what-is-tramlining