WWWPerfA_ZN0W

possibly air in the cooling system. what engine in your Edge? 2.0/3.5/2.7? ecoboosts are more prone to developing air pockets during coolant flushes, and can be a devil to get out on the 2.0. 3.5 is pretty good about it, 2.7 can be more troublesome.

really like these pics for some reason lol

MyKey restrictions? Although this was a 2015 MY issue on the 3.5 engine, throttle body? what was the code that Ford found, this could be important to us? You can PM me for my email addy to send the video. @Jennifer Grebing

there are at least 2 well known issues with this MY: the round robin of plugs coils PCM failure, and the failure of the timing system/water pump. this is why reading codes is SO important. you need to have an idea what the computer thinks may be wrong with your edge. maybe the pcm is fried, or maybe the timing chains/tensioners are loose. have to check codes first. get an obd II adapter from amazon (such as the veepeak or icar series) and software such as Forscan Lite for your smart device to not only read codes but live data as well.

NOTE: The temperature control valve directs warm coolant to the transmission fluid cooler/warmer mounted on the transmission during transmission warm-up and allows the coolant to bypass the warmer when the transmission fluid reaches normal operating temperature. NOTE: At 38°C (100°F) ambient temperature, amber arrows indicate temperature approximately 82°C (179°F). only affects transmission warmup afaik. not a big deal if you don't live in a wintry state. may set a code or two.

please update us on miles on the vehicle and typical driving conditions, along with oil change routine. 2011 has a "defective" iolm, so i would not depend on it for oil change reminders. special operating conditions, overly long oil change intervals, fuel with insufficient additives, poor maintenance history with fluids, filters and plugs/pcv valve can all contribute to the mpg decline where the powertrain is concerned.

motorcraft or detroit axle likely best bets. i am running the cardone pro axles, about 1.5 years now, no issues, but dunno if they will be as good as MC.

any work in the area recently? cracked tone ring is often the reason behind this issue. you will see a thread or two on fixing it with jbweld if the break is not bad. OR put in a new axle. replacement rings are not available. how to check the tone ring

It is looking GOOOOD!

i am sure they would do just as well as iridium plugs, or better. their value is yet to be proven tho, over spark plug gap and correct heat range.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jBJQQtJ635aSGsMyyFRKCFyFNNo1KnNw/view?usp=sharing

very common in this gen, especially after an oil change. don't ask my why, but that's what we see a lot of. especially when going from synblend to synthetic, or even changing brands. just needs an excuse lol. check the oil pressure switch next to the oil filter. leaks and causes this issue. replace it.

if you are suffering coolant loss, there is a higher likelihood of needing a replacement engine. hope you have powertrain warranty from somewhere, Ford or insurance co, or otherwise.

is the change in weight distribution going to be a significant factor in how long the joint will hold together with the airbox?

best plugs for "all seasons" usually turn out the be the stock ones, giving you good service life + good fuel burn. since you are not tuned, that is the best option. if you were tuned/high power, you could opt for NGK LTRiX type plugs that are a heat range colder, or Brisk Racing copper plugs, but longevity is affected in either case. Your tuner would likely have turn to lower gap plugs first anyway unless the gain in power were significant. More critical is use of 93 fuel with ecoboosts. again, if you were tuned, you could use high E fuel, but would reduce plug service life. you can experiment with the E%, i believe the cutoff is about E18 before needing a tune.

i was surprised as well when my shop said they did not have to remove the radiator to service the condenser. they did remove the fan assembly and lean the radiator forward, then r&r'd the condenser. magic i tell ya. lol

glad you got it figured out. rockauto.com generally has the lowest prices, but online dealer pricing is not terrible.

i want to see some nice welding braids after you are done ... or ELSE!

as an aside, check to make sure the engine is not a 420 Cleveland engine. the label is on the passenger side of the valve cover. if it is, this may develop into a misfire/coolant loss/engine replacement scenario.

looks kinda empty there lol it will be easier to remove the PTU if you change the transmission to one meant for a FWD. but you would have to update the calibration of the PCM to account for this. another option is to do what a Fusion guy did on YT to remove the PTU. dont know how that works out in the long run.

20k miles on a 2016 is very low average mileage per year. even with the name "ecoboost", you cannot really avoid the reality of short tripping, idling, city vs hwy traffic, etc. it is very likely that fuel has been dumping into the catalytic converter the whole time, because of these "special operating conditions". would advise, at minimum, changing engine oil regularly, every 6 mo or 5K miles max, with a full synthetic changing spark plugs regularly, every 5 years or 60k miles max using a GDI fuel system cleaner that you put in the fuel tanks cleaning sensors such as the MAP and IAT changing ALL fluids asap, as an extra step. once you get to a properly conditioned engine, you may see the P code disappear. hopefully not too late.

Whaddya mean there's no guarantee!!! Trying to drive up the anticipation I see. And here I was used to you playing fair. Oh well. ? ? ? ? ? i like this better than a movie premiere night!

thanks for the update forscan does not do any kind of tuning for the powertrain. you have to use a tuner such as Bullydog or SCT X4 etc. high price of entry for just adjusting the fans. considering normal operating temperature for transmission fluid starts at per the owners manual: Correct fluid level The transmission fluid should be checked at normal operating temperature 149°F (65°C) on a level surface. The normal operating temperature can be reached after approximately 20 miles (30 km) of driving. 2007 Edge i think you could opt to have the aux trans fans come on much sooner, say at 175F or 180F, and test out how that affects temps. the rad fans may not be doing an adequate job, as they are responsible for cooling both coolant and transmission fluid. i assume you cleaned the condenser at the same time as the radiator/trans cooler. if you can borrow a thermal imaging camera, you can image the radiator for hot spots. Assuming there is no buildup inside the cooling system or water pump damage causing higher temps, you can consider adding a product line Redline Water Wetter or Royal Purple's Purple Ice to get temps down in the range you want. btw, did you use severe gear amsoil or regular amsoil for the AWD fluid fills? severe gear works really really well. or redline LWSP for both "diffs".

anything is possible given time and willpower. at the very least would have to change the axles and hub/wheel bearing assemblies to make it pseudo FWD.

lotta work! current mileage on your Edge? how do the fans respond while idling with vs without a/c on? what were the ambient temps when these powertrain temps were recorded? what were the readings prior to this work? the thermostat change won't affect anything longterm without a tune change to make the fans come on earlier and stay on longer (for less on/off cycles and increased durability). doesn't seem like the new fans are helping much, but could be.