WWWPerfA_ZN0W

LOL

Is traffic still averaging 70+ out there? Used to be cops would pass you by even at those speeds.

Simply use Trip 2 to track engine hours.

Filtering efficiency is all relative, simply looking at the MERV ratings for household furnaces is the quickest way to get an idea of what that really means. Look at the table provided in the following link http://furnacefiltercare.com/performance/merv-ratings/ As far as K&N, they claim 96-99% efficiency. 98% for our purposes (gen 1-1.5) https://www.knfilters.com/efficiency_testing.htm https://www.knfilters.com/dynocharts/33-2395.pdf K&N Test Results 33-2395.pdf

I have a Moto G phone with a smallish screen. tried the LARGE FONT setting, it does improve the typing part somewhat. LOL.

There might be air trapped in the ABS controller/HCU. There is a separate procedure for getting that resolved, but I would check for air in the system first. Also inspect the booster/master cylinder closely to make sure there is no fluid leaking into the booster from the MC. Sometimes the vacuum hose is not attached properly or is breaking down. If the check valve on the booster is not working that could also be causing the issues. Was/is the brake fluid completely clean? Dirty brake fluid should be flushed immediately. You will likely end up replacing the controller and or the HCU though.

The ABS controller is a programmable module. So you have to start the Programmable Module Installation using the Ford IDS software, replace the module, then complete the installation with the new module in place. Maybe pro-level scan software/devices such as those from SnapOn can also do this, but IDK. A description of the basic process for various such modules: Principles of Operation Configurable modules accommodate a variety of vehicle options, eliminating the need for many unique modules for one vehicle line. These modules must be configured when replaced as part of a repair procedure. Configurable modules should not be exchanged between vehicles since the settings are unique to each vehicle. Failure to configure a new module may result in incorrect operation and/or DTCs setting. The following are the 3 different methods of configuration: Programmable Module Installation (PMI) Module reprogramming ("flashing") Programmable parameters Some modules do not support all 3 methods. Definition of Terms The following are definitions of configuration terms: Programmable Module Installation (PMI)PMI is a scan tool process which configures settings in a new module. Data used for the PMI process is automatically downloaded from the original module and stored when a scan tool session is started. If this data cannot be retrieved from the module being replaced, the scan tool may prompt for As-Built data entry or display a list of parameter values that need to be manually selected. Some modules are reprogrammed during PMI when a strategy/calibration update is available. To carry out PMI , refer to Programmable Module Installation (PMI) in this section. NOTE: It is important that the scan tool identifies the vehicle and obtains configuration data prior to removing any modules. The new module must be able to communicate with the scan tool in order to carry out PMI . Module ReprogrammingModule reprogramming (also referred to as "flashing") is a scan tool process which updates the strategy/calibration in a module. Reprogramming a module with the same level of software does not improve module operation or repair a hardware failure. Module reprogramming is automatically carried out during PMI when a later strategy/calibration is available. NOTE: Limit module reprogramming to circumstances where a published TSB procedure recommends doing so. (Some modules limit the number of times it can be reprogrammed.) NOTE: A module cannot communicate with other modules on the communication network while being reprogrammed. After the reprogramming process, clear any network communication DTCs which may have been set in other modules. NOTE: Some modules are reprogrammed in coordination with other modules. Follow the Integrated Diagnostic System (IDS) key cycling instructions carefully to avoid reprogramming errors, including failure of programming one or more of the modules.

Nope. Zip. Nada. Best you can do is H&Rs, unfortunately, or go bagged.

Congratulations, and welcome!

Correct. Any Ford Protect warranty is good at any Ford dealership, regardless of whether you buy the warranty locally or online (there might be country restrictions for those of us who are not in the US/Canada tho). Your local dealership may even match the pricing, if that makes you more comfortable with the transaction.

A very useful product, is Bar Keeps Friend. Easily removed stains inside a steel coffee pot that nothing else would. Presto!

Some details ... how many miles on your Edge, is it AWD/FWD, what is the maintenance history, including spark plugs, coils, PCV valve, and engine/transmission mounts.

Welcome, AnOldPilot, post pics of your Edge when you get a chance

I bought the WiFi specifically for iOS use, would drop out like mad. Had it replaced once. Bought another new one a year later thinking surely it would have improved by now. Yeah, well, SMH SWH. Glad yours is working tho

LOL

Oil change and transmission fluid drain/fill, along with spark plug and PCV valve change are a great way to get started on your DIY Edge. Brakes I am leery of doing solo the first couple of times. Better to have an experienced supervisor to make sure you are doing things right. Maybe you can find a DIY Auto Service center near you? Not a lot of them yet, but worth exploring as an option. macbwt has a YT channel devoted to the Ford Edge. He previously had a 2008, so the earlier videos will show you exactly what's what. Now he works on his 2011 Edges (yes, 2 of them), but a lot of the information will transfer. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCJb7karK2nhyA7G1BW6xESg/videos And when in doubt, ask! We are here to help

The pros use BG FrigiClean, so that's an alternative, but more involved than the Kool-It. Watch for kinks in the evap drain line, that makes it hard for the tube to advance far enough up the drain to allow the foam to reach the evaporator instead of just draining back out. https://www.bgprod.com/catalog/climate-control/bg-frigi-clean/ as part of https://www.bgprod.com/services/climate-control/ http://infinitipartsusa.com/v/vspfiles/downloadables/Frigi-Clean%20instructions.pdf

Let us know how the BlueDriver works out. I have been curious about this particular tool, and have asked a few people before to provide a review, but sadly, am still waiting

Truce!!! A tune is really the only way to take full advantage of the lower TStat. I just wanted to reiterate that because you can't change the behavior of the other passive components in the cooling system (without replacement), BUT the fans are the real ace in the hole You can command them to turn on at minimium speeds earlier, so there might be a very small drag on mpg, but the cooling would become mightily effective. Of course, depending on how often you turn them on/off, the life of the fans may be decreased, but they are relatively inexpensive and easy to replace.

It's a great idea, an easy solid upgrade to their brand image

The Moss-Magnusson act is the consumer's friend in this case, that should still provide protection in Europe, but can't say for sure. Barring any specific local laws/regulations (especially disposal of used products) you should be fine with DIY as long as you use products that meet the specified Ford spec, and use the appropriate change intervals (IOLM in the case of engine oil). Keep all receipts, and a journal of your work tho, if they question it. I don't DIY, for sundry reasons, but I do have a trusted shop do the work. They have the records, and I keep the receipts. HTH.

2013 Model Year TStat operational specs Thermostat Opening Temperatures Thermostat starts to open - 3.5L, 3.7L 79.5°C-83.3°C (175°F-182°F) Thermostat fully open - 3.5L, 3.7L 94.5°C (202.1°F) Thermostat starts to open - 2.0L GTDI 80°C-84°C (176°F-183°F) Thermostat fully open - 2.0L GTDI 97°C (207°F) IIRC, fans kick in around 220F for the 3.5EB transverse, so probably the same for the the other transverse EBs as well. Fans kick in around 210F for the naturally aspirated 3.5/3.7L engines. The 2011 TStat appears to be a bit more progressive Thermostat Opening Temperatures Thermostat starts to open 82°C (180°F) Thermostat fully open 94.5°C (202.1°F) The 2010 TStat (noted just because it was a crossover year of sorts) Thermostat Opening Temperatures Thermostat starts to open 86°C (187°F) Thermostat fully open 96°C (205°F) The 2007 TStat Thermostat Opening Temperatures Thermostat starts to open 86°C (187°F) Thermostat fully open 96°C (205°F) Obviously Ford knows what they are doing, I am not questioning that at all. But they have their optimized one-size-fits-all criteria. The owner's criteria may be a bit different.

That is not my experience. The rating is the point at which the thermostat BEGINS to open, it is not where it is FULLY open. It can take a 10F ( or more, depending on design) for the thermostat to fully open. So you are correct, there IS a progression of how the TStat works. And ideally, temps would be around the opening temp. It does work if ambient temps are low enough. But once you start getting into, say, 80F+ days, the cooling system will be working hard to maintain at the TStat's opening temperature. It's not a MAJOR rise as long as you don't hit traffic snags like we do around here, maybe 196F at 90F ambient. I will have to check datalogs if I have over 100F ambient conditions noted. BTW, different model years will have different TStat ratings. 2011 is < than 2007 for example by 10F or so. The cooling system IS pretty good in the Edge/MKX. But it can use help in HOT climates. Especially with Ecoboost engines. I generally don't recommend TStats without a tune, just so that the PCM knows what it has and is dealing with. But after a point, does the PCM really care WHY the engine is running cooler? It only knows it has to deal with that condition. And I will say again, Ecoboost control is very different from the ones we are used to on the naturally aspirated engines. These engines run HOT, and OEM tuning is set to run pig rich to help combat that. Talk to LME or talk to Brad at bradleyfredrickfischer@yahoo.com Both are fantastic tuners, and will give you the skinny on the TStats. Don't take my word for it. By no means am I a guru on this stuff. But I AM quoting from watching the Ecoboost platform evolve over the last few years. I would rather you talk to the people in the know directly, 4 sure.

Dealer may be willing to swap out the wheels, even provide a small price break. Worth asking.