WWWPerfA_ZN0W

https://Www.youtube.com/watch?V=XQYNzJXJnDI&t=0m10s

If you can drain it all, theoretically it will take 18 ounces of new fluid for the fillup, per the user manual. I would keep a quart of new fluid on hand at minimum. Motorcraft is fine if you are going to flush at regular intervals, but there are better choices out there, including Redline, Amsoil, etc. Otherwise you can get Valvoline and Mobil1 for pretty good prices too.

You probably don't have enough age on the plugs to make them resistant, but it is possible. My Edge was 9 years old before it got new plugs, and the ones in the back were somewhat more difficult than the ones in the front to remove. And yes, I hear the same thing about warming up the engine first esp when working with aluminum heads, from trusted sources.

Hopefully it is a circuit that can be repaired rather than needing a complete headlamp replacement ... 2008 MKX Adaptive Headlighting.pdf

M Case, Micro2 and Micro3 fuses ... we used the standard mini fuse for SO long, these seem to keep changing every 5-10 yrs ...

Book time is 4 hours. Most people first time it takes upto 8 hours. Just a lot of steps. A good time to conduct multiple drain/fills as well, New fluid can only help.

Transmission fluid cooler? Requires a special tool, IIRC. This is probably what you need https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-39660-Transmission-Cooler-Scissor/dp/B005MVBENO/

Try this 2012 Edge 3-5L Engine Oil Pan R&R.pdf

Wrong thread sorry

Good on ya for freeing the Edge from the dealer clutches

could be, but cant say for sure. do you know how long the Edge was on the lot? Carfax history should give you an approximation, as it will list the date the dealer put it up for sale. If it was sitting for more than a couple of months (even less in extreme weather), very probably the pads started binding to the rotor so there could be chunks of pad on the rotor, not visible but enough to make the braking uneven. Also sounds like the caliper slide pins are not moving freely sometimes, and that means the pistons and hence the pads are not being evenly applied. Also pads COULD be worn, though OEM pads can last a long time. Summary? Service brakes first. Grease those caliper slide pins. May even want to change pads & rotors TBH. Fresh start. New 2 U does not mean New, unfortunately.

Duplicate thread Original http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/22976-issues-advice-please/ 1 answer already in original thread.

HTH

Congrats, post pics plz!

If you have a Sport, you have a fill AND a drain plug, makes it much easier. Otherwise, drain & fill from the fill plug area just like 2007 onwards. Probably easier with Edge on jackstands/lift with right wheel & fender liner off.

Do you have Intelligent Access keys? Any codes set in the PCM/BCM/...? The manual lists the following suspects for no-crank conditions: Battery Battery cables Fuses Ignition switch Starter motor Starter relay Run/start relay PCM Transmission Range (TR) Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS) Body Control Module (BCM) Wiring, terminals or connectors With IA, add on Start/stop switch Brake switch Remote Function Actuator (RFA) module

It is a lot of steps to remove the oil pan, but yes, can be done with engine in place. Do you have the 2.0EB or the 3.5 engine?

Welcome to the community, nice fleet if not the battery (check cca's), very likely the starter.

Might want to put in a call to Jeg's or Summit Racing to get that information. I have been seeing use of Grade 8 bolts mentioned though, and bolts MEANT for automotive work.