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Sweet!

Congrats, dbmang, and welcome to the community! def post pics of your new ride

which vendor did you purchase from, Beez?

Check for codes first, hopefully the PCM has a pointer for you ... Could def be the throttle body, or could be an injector, or a crank position sensor, or ... Injectors do go bad on these GDI engines, so very much in play. And as you also noted, the compressor cycling can affect the RPMs, though should not be THAT drastic. Since injector service helped, I would suspect the injector and/or fuel pump. You had the intank fuel pump replaced once already, right? Try looking at the Mode 06 data/freeze frame data, see if it has something to report. Torque Pro can pull this up for you.

Frickin' awesome! Pretty sure the Edge would need more mods to make this work, but hope an intrepid member can make it happen

That would be underneath the car, accessible after shield removal. Usually due to regular overfilling or damage from road debris.

Do you have the 3.5 engine in your Edge? The purge valve is known to go bad, how many miles u got on it? macbwt shows how to vacuum test the purge valve

imgur and dropbox seem to work ok. Upload there and post a link back here

Very clear recording. It does sound like the strut is binding. So strut mount/bearing is suspect. Also make sure the fenderwell liner is secure. A lot of engine/electrical work nowadays is done after removing/partially removing that liner, and sometimes the tech does not re-secure it properly.

Sadly, nothing is fk up proof. Humans are VERY good at finding the chinks in the armor. But you know, my first time loading a tune, I was sweating BULLETS, so I get where you are coming from. From what I have gathered so far, making sure the battery is HEALTHY (check CCAs, should be strong) before starting the PCM flash with the tune. It can take a good 5-10 minutes and various functions of the car will be tested during the flash process. Other than that it is sit back and relax, wait for the device to tell you when it is over. You can wait for a sale from Unleashed, sometimes they have used devices available also. Not sure if an X4 is needed for 2013, X3 is cheaper being an older model. I think you can get the X4 on sale for 399 including 2 tunes. As far as ROI, it's hard to say. It might take a while. The car will run better, and more efficiently. If saving money is your only goal, then altering driving habits is the cheapest way to go. No jackrabbiting, slow acceleration, no unneeded weight in car, tire pressure checked regularly, etc.

If it fits under the file attachment limit, you can go to "more reply options" to open the full reply box. From there you can attach the file/clip. Otherwise, maybe sites like flickr and imgur or even dropbox may allow multimedia. Upload there and link back here. Make the clip permissions "public".

Was there any noise operating the driver's window prior to this complete failure? If so, it is possibly the window motor (about 55$ Dorman brand (742-195) from RockAuto). Or if the switch worked intermittently, then you may need to replace the switch bezel (includes window switches and window lock toggle) - about 25$ or less (eBay - 7T4Z14525AC for black). The oldfashioned method would be to check the switches for continuity, as well as the window motor (for which you have to remove the door panel, not too bad).

Good luck, hoping for the best!

LOL. Actually 3 of them so 300% of original tune value.

Wow.

If there's pull/drift, there's always the subframe alignment method (as per a Ford TSB), and checking the control arms as another possible scenario/solution.

A possible answer from a friend: "I've used the engine starter to break a bunch of crank bolts loose. I would position the breaker bar where it would be against some part of the frame & then bump the starter & it would break the crank bolt loose." I know the engine is on the stand, so likely this does not apply. Just thought I would add it to the thread. If the pulley isnt solid, thread a breaker bar through it. And buy a new bolt, they're torque to yield.

The factory manual says Using the Strap Wrench, remove the crankshaft pulley bolt and washer. Discard the bolt. Using the 3 Jaw Puller, remove the crankshaft pulley. Strap Wrench 303-D055 (D85L-6000-A) or equivalent 3 Jaw Puller 303-D121 or equivalent

Welcome & congrats, John! Hope to only hear good things about your Edge Post some pics when you get a chance, please.

Not true. I have an Unleashed 87 economy tune running on my 2010 F Sport that I have those gains (actually more) on. I like it enough I haven't even tried out the performance tunes!

Only if you have an Ecoboost engine. You WILL get some hp/tq improvement from the 3.7, more likely in the twenties (still not shabby). The shifting however will be the big improvement. And you can even get an economy tune that will improve mpg in the range of 10-15%, if that is what you want.

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/12151-led-light-bar-install/

Welcome, Synner, and congrats on the new ride. Sorry to hear you are having issues with the seats, I had a rental Titanium, and noticed the seats are set up differently from my 2007, more "sporty" if you will. Not everyone's cup of tea, and there have been other owners complaining about it. So you are definitely not alone. Unfortunately, the best resolution is probably to have the seat re-upholstered to fit you/your liking better. Might be as simple as changing the foam type or dimensions.

I think the fuses are 20A for the power points, but I rarely go even 1/2 that.

This might apply to your Edge. The link came off the UK site. http://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/vdirsnet/OwnerManual/Home/Content?bookCode=O33943&languageCode=en&marketCode=US&viewTech=IE&chapterTitleSelected=G1676250&subTitleSelected=G1726843&topicHRef=G1726844&div=f&vFilteringEnabled=True