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Both headlights or just one. If just one I would have thought the shutter in that headlight had failed - new headlight needed. Could also be a faulty multifunction switch, has happened from time to time on the 2011-14 MYs. Easy DIY to replace. If both headlights are high-beaming, that probably is the culprit. Though without diagnostics, we could end up throwing parts at the problem. I would take the steering column shroud off, take a close look at the MFS, clean it out, grease it if it looks otherwise ok. If you see burnt components, time to replace.

well, programming changed between gen 1 and gen 1.5, could be part of that. will have to monitor on my 2007.

Wow, what an experience! And thanks for the tips, sure to help others down the road, as this pest issue is more common than reported.

sorry to hear! how many miles on your 2007, did you pull codes to see what the PCM has to say about this problem? You may be able to "rent" a scanner from the local auto parts store if you do not have one. What brand sensors did you buy, btw? OEM/Ford/Motorcraft are highly recommended. Also did you put the gearshift in Neutral before starting the work? Did you disconnect the battery, also before beginning work? Might be worth trying a KAM reset as shown in this video: Sometimes you have to go deeper and clear the transmission adaptive tables separately, as the KAM reset only changes PCM settings, not TCM (trans control module, also know as the solenoid body assembly). It is possible the Transmission Range Sensor is at fault, and to replace it you basically have to remove the valve body & solenoid body. Same work as TSS/OSS. Have to be real careful though, coz it interacts with the parking pawl. http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=180543 2007 Edge 6F50 Digital Transmission Range Sensor R&R.PDF TSB 13-5-27_6F50-6F55 TRANSMISSION - SLIP-NEUTRAL OUT - 5TH GEAR START FROM STOP - BACKUP CAMERA ON IN DRIVE - BUILT 3-13-2009-6-30-2010 .pdf

Transmission fluid leaks usually happen at the driverside axle where it inserts into the transmission. Not sure exactly where this area in the video is. Power steering hose leaks occur either due to pinholes in the line or a leaking banjo bolt, you would have to take the "wrap" off to check. It could look black simply due to grime accumulated during driving, OR the fluid is in really bad shape (easily checked at the reservoir) &/or low. Does the fluid smell nasty? Do you have AWD? Is it effort at any time after starting the engine to move the steering wheel back & forth?

Probably coz of the sensors behind the grille. Gotta protect them Nick Halstead at one point had shown what all lies there when he removed the bumper cover.

Mileage and operating conditions in 2012MY and up. Not fully implemented in 2011, so that year, by mileage only.

You will have to look at Ford documentation to see if the fuel system is E85 compliant (read resistant to E85). The 2013+ Taurus SHO and probably the whole Taurus line is, so there is a good possibility. So far, E45 is the highest blend tested successfully with the SHO. Reportedly the Continental can take full E85, but tuning is still in progress. The limitation is ultimately providing fuel volume from the intank fuel pump as you increase the E blend, as ethanol, while having higher octane value, has far less energy value (almost 2/3) as that of gasoline.

Yup right at 11 years, every car I had, well almost every car, has gotten totaled. LOL!

Glad it worked out. I saw this work for a member on macbwt's fb page, so thought i would pass it on. Thank you for the additional info for your setup!

Lower version of the system than yours, but may be a similar solution will work here also.

If you still have the engine on the stand, might even consider opening the oil drain plug and pouring in 5-10 quarts of cheapest 5w20 oil from the top, let it drain out into a catchbasin, then putting in a synblend 5w20 (or Pennzoil conventional 5w20 meeting the ford spec) before even attempting to install/startup the engine.

http://www.chargingchargers.com/tutorials/battery-desulfation.html

September is shaping up to be a good month, continued success!

welcome & congrats! ask away, search is also a very good friend. post a pic or two of your Edge when you get a chance

You are sure it is not the tensioner? How many miles on your Edge? Wasn't aware there was a harmonic balancer on the 3.5L, will have to look again. Sure you are not referring to the crankshaft pulley? EDIT: Dorman does call it a balancer. Ford P/N 8T4Z-6312-A As far as belts go, this might help Crank Pulley Removal With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .Remove the accessory drive belt and the power steering belt. For additional information, refer to Section 303-05 .Using the Strap Wrench, remove the crankshaft pulley bolt and washer. Discard the bolt. Using the 3 Jaw Puller, remove the crankshaft pulley. Installation Lubricate the crankshaft front seal inner lip with clean engine oil. NOTE: Lubricate the outside diameter sealing surfaces with clean engine oil. Using the Front Cover Oil Seal Installer and Crankshaft Vibration Damper Replacer, install the crankshaft pulley. Using the Strap Wrench, install the crankshaft pulley washer and new bolt and tighten in 4 stages. Stage 1: Tighten to 120 Nm (89 lb-ft). Stage 2: Loosen one full turn. Stage 3: Tighten to 50 Nm (37 lb-ft). Stage 4: Tighten an additional 90 degrees. Install the accessory drive belt and the power steering belt. For additional information, refer to Section 303-05 . Serpentine Belt P/N 1 BT4Z-8620-A Serpentine Belt Power Steering Belt P/N 2 BT4Z-8620-D Belt

gotta be able to store it in the Edge, no good if you can't. that's what I was getting at

The old fashioned way

So sorry for the sucky experience. Definitely make yourself heard to Ford.

I dont think a fullsize tire will fit in the spare area, but macbwt can comment further on that. He checked this out recently.

Hope you can return the parts. Good info!

Relatievly easy fix if it is the fans. Would be nice for it to only be a fuse, though assembly replacement is more likely. OEM is highly recommended.

No, but for round about that price you can get a good smart charger that will do the same as needed. Thats what I did, with a Solar Prologix 20 amp, and a Genius g7200 as well.

For easy diy stuff, i dont mind testing the aftermarket waters. Easy as in replacing a bulb or air filter LOL. Chewing up time, creating headaches for myself, not something I want/need in a daily driver.

Is that a boatload of anchovies? Oh my!