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Glad you found the solution, and thank you for circling back. The pics will be of immense help to people experiencing the same issue as well.

Great idea!

Welcome, Jerry, and congrats on the new ride!

Firewall side of the engine/engine bay.

Welcome, Bob, sorry to hear about the PTU/PTO situation! As the miles pile up on the 2011-14, we are seeing this situation more frequently with these MYs. No drain plug on the new unit, most likely. But changing the PTU fluid regularly (3yr/36K intervals) should keep it healthy. Yes there are shops that will do it, even some dealerships (Ford/Lincoln). At worst, take the time to find a trans shop, they are used to servicing differentials especially in the Midwest. Definitely lodge complaints with the CPSC/NHTSA. It has to build up to a critical mass to make things happen from a recall perspective.

Welcome, and congratulations! Please post photos of your Edge when/as possible Also please document the CNG/GNV conversion of your Edge, more details the better! Change out all the fluids as soon as possible, and keep suspension bushings lubricated. This should help longevity of your Edge.

The single zone controls have 1 blend door actuator, underneath the driverside dash. The electronic/dual zone climate controls have 2 actuators, 1 beneath the driverside dash, and 1 behind the glovebox & to the left.

If you are sure it is the fan and not a BDA, Dorman or TYC should work fine. Easy enough to replace if you have to go after it again.

Don't go by looks of the vehicle. Perception is all too-important these days. Few pay true attention to the heart of the vehicle, and dealer servicing can be just as abominable as those quicklube places. Better to not take a chance, better to renew all fluids so you have a good baseline. If temps don't go below -20F, stick with 5W20. Most wear occurs at startup, so if you are in stopngo situations a lot, then might be worth going to 0W20. Otherwise, with a lot of highwaytype driving between stops and starts, stick with 5W20. Full synthetic oil is noticeably better than synthetic blend, the engine will run quieter and may even return better mpg. You cannot really tell just by looking at oil whether it is worn out or not, you certainly do not want to run it to that point. Full synthetic flows easier than synthetic blend oil (remember 5W20 is not a hard and fast number, it is a RANGE), so it should do better at lower temps as well. Amsoil Signature, Redline, and I think Royal Purple are true full synthetics among the more major brand names. But really you can do quite well with any of the "full synthetic" 5W20s readily available at WalMart (can't advocate store brands) - Pennzoil, Mobil1, QS (UD), Valvoline, Castrol etc. Filter is where I am a stickler for Motorcraft. It does not last nearly as long as the full synth media filters out there, but nary a rattle at startup. And it cleans quite well. For 3$, yeah ... I am not going to question it.

Separate blend door actuators in dual climate control systems. So if the driver blend door is stuck, ...

In the Middle East, due to extreme heat, 10W30 is recommended by Ford. In extreme cold, I assume the 0W20 would be quite suitable. But for MOST people, 5W20 works perfectly. Going full synthetic gives you a little more leeway. Look up the SAE charts on viscosities to see suitability.

Fluid film for exterior surface rust protection. Not sure about treating drilled areas or the insides of panels. Paint/dielectric grease/quality rubber grommets/??? Antifreeze/coolant should be changed out regularly, at the very LATEST at Ford's recommended intervals, I think first change is 105K miles, remainder every 50K miles thereafter. I would go so far as to say the FIRST change and EVERY change should be at 50K-60K miles or every 80-100K kilometers. A commonly available tester does not test the additives in the coolant, just the specific gravity. You can get coolant strips, but they STILL will not test the additives. Easy enough to change out the coolant, just do it. Trans fluid: Ford oversells the life of the fluid, saying it will go 150K miles. Yeah? Do you see them offering warranty past 150K miles. That will be the day. Anyhoo, same recommendation as coolant. Every 50-60K miles. And if it has not been changed at 150K+ miles, change immediately, and then at 30K miles after, then resume 50-60K mile changes. Again, additives. They get depleted, crud builds up, gums up sensors, prevents smooth operation, ultimately wearing down the mechanicals unnecessarily. Engine oil: Synthetic Blend is "good enough", it does work well in the naturally aspirated engines. Although at higher mileage, past 100K, I would definitely move up to full synthetic brand name oil. Forced induction engines? Full synthetic all the way. If you start using "High Mileage" oils, it is a one way street, you cannot go back to regular oil So NOT recommended as routine maintenance. Use the Motorcraft filters, they get oil the quickest to every part of the engine on startup. Rattlefree operation FTW! Headlights: Use high output halogens, I assume you do not have HIDs due to being in Canada? H9 bulbs can be substituted in some applications for higher output. Not sure how the assembly will do with the extra heat of the H9. My short answer to your snapshot

All 2011s have the POTENTIAL, since the service bulletin addresses 2011-13 MYs. All 2012s, and some but not necessarily all 2013s. SB-10055042-7161 Engine Oil in Intake 2011-13 Edge Explorer MKX 2013 Taurus Flex MKT MKS with TiVCT Engines.pdf

Hard to imagine where that leak is coming from without a seal issue. The location is pretty unusual. The closest coolant source is the crossover tube that runs underneath the lower intake manifold. The plug well is essentially sealed by the coil, so if there is coolant in the plug well, it has to be coming from a valve cover failure of some sort. I HAVE heard of block porosity, but just don't see that causing an external issue like this one.

Elegant.

Chrysler owner, eh? Hmmm ... Hmmmm .... Ok, I will allow it as you claim the LH cars, the 3.3L being the only worthy engine IMHO. Welcome to the community, post pics of your newly acquired Edge, search the forums and ask questions at will

I thought 3M wrap came with a substantial warranty ... https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/graphics-signage-us/resources/warranties/ Maybe they are referring to the calculations on page 5 of this bulleting http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/1034875O/3mtm-graphics-warranty-bulletin.pdf?fn=Warranty%20Bulletin.pdf

Usually will turn out to be the car battery, fob battery, or the actual push-start button. I believe the button has been an issue on the Escape in prior years?

Looks like the baffling around the lower right hand part of the valve cover in this pic is deeper, for one thing. That seemed prominent to me, but could be light & shadows. Plus those 3 shapes are extended.

He lives! Welcome back, Cellbine, hope you and the fam are doing well. Looking forward to updates on "restoring" your Edge to that fantastic look!

Thank you, very helpful!

You can attach directly to your post. Otherwise, imgur has been good so far. I prefer becoming a Platinum member of this forum, as it allows me to add content at will.

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/23145-2011-edge-valve-cover/

can't see pics

You can safelu use E15 if it is available. Increasing oxygenates in the fuel actually helps keep the soot in the exhaust system to a minimum. Dont recommend going iver E18 without a tune tho. As far as the carbon buildup, methanol injection is the best safest way to resolve it, but using the lowest volatility full synthetic oil will help. There are now GDI induction services available that should be considered as maintenance, not fixit. So start early, do it yearly if going that route.