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Hmm ... seals and gaskets ... continuing comedy of errors?

Could very well be the solenoid body assembly (also called the TCM). TSS/OSS is pretty specific. If you have problems other than those, you have to look at the valve body and the SBA. There are TSBs for specific conditions that can be addressed by recalibration as well. You can look them up here http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/ Not to say you should rule out engine related issues like spark plugs/coils/MAF sensor/TB. I would check those first just because they are so much easier to get to!

It is true though that we are ever more reliant on warning bells and dings, and ever more relaxed on personal vigilance. Human beings, by nature, will tend to avoid "work" when they can. This is why the world is moving towards more automated vehicles, and eventually fully automated. As it is, driving is hardly fun anymore with all the traffic, so you make do People talking on cell phones, weaving in their lanes, following too close, overloading their vehicles, all the things you are taught NOT to do in driver's ed, are now routine on the streets. Why SMH, this is why.

K let us know how it works out! But experimentation costs time & money. I will sacrifice a few $ if it means getting to the right product for me, but don't confuse it with not agonizing even over those $, LOL. What that means is just because I have newly installed oil and/or filter, if I am not happy with it, I will not run it the full length of time. I will change it out ASAP. For all intents and purposes, all these "reasonable cost" oils run neck and neck in quality. They are allowed to claim "full synthetic"-ness by law, but they are not truly. Doesn't matter. The additive packages work well enough to overcome weaknesses in the base oil, for normal interval oil changes. Mobil1-Annual ups the additive packages to perform to their claims. Base oils used are AFAIK unchanged. Don't be stingy with oil (or fluid) changes. Especially since you cannot rely on the IOLM in the 2011, use engine hours, not the IOLM. Your concern is with low temp startups, and I definitely would not do extended interval oil changes. Plus your driving is Special Operating Conditions, terrible for the engine. In 6 months, assuming you go to work 5 days a week every week, you only put on, what 800 (or 1,600?) miles??? That is going to kill the engine if you don't change oil regularly. The engine will be running rich most of not all the time it is operating. Fuel dilution, fouled plugs & oxygen sensors, etc. will result. Make sure there is no oil in the intake, otherwise a valve cover replacement WILL be needed. Also advise running Techron Concentrate Plus through the fuel system at least once if not twice a year. If you have ethanol in your fuel, a bottle of HEET is highly recommended at least once a year while temps drop to/stay below freezing. Having a block heater/heated garage would be a huge advantage of course

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/23097-2014-edge-limited-no-heat/

Takes practice, braking only as needed, planning your stops. If you are in rush hour traffic or brake hard often, the life will be condiderably less.

I think at least you will have to tear all the way back down to the sensors. These issues usually arise due to the shifter not being put into Neutral before work is begun. As such the shift pin is out of position, thus confusing the transmission because it has lost its' reference point.

Could be a dead battery, or could be a PATS security issue. Is the red PATS light continuously blinking, without key in ignition? When you turn the ignition to ON, which light show up/go away/remain? If PATS does not recognize the key, it will not allow cranking.

Maybe tape it up with painters/gaffers tape before you leave it in the lot? Should hold up. Of course, ensuring that the rails are clean, the drains are unclogged, and the seals are not warped/are sitting properly are also on the table here.

Yes, the plastic/foam cover.

Nice legwork

I have run 0W20 in my Edge with no issues - full synthetic Mobil1, Mobil1 EP, Quaker State UD ... Mind you I do not have enough miles logged on any of those oils (by that I mean in the tens of thousands of miles) to give a longterm evaluation. BUT the engine did like it, and it felt "lighter" during acceleration, and gained a small bit of mpg (nothing huge). I would not worry about using 0W20 full synthetic. It is still a great step up from synthetic blend oils. I do not think you can go wrong with any of the major brand names you mentioned in synthetic oils. Very reasonably priced. Pour point is only one characteristic. Look at the viscosity of the oil in the same product line. The lower the viscosity, the easier it flows, the less wear at startup. Most manufacturers do not provide the data Amsoil does, including volatility (Noack) and TBN. But what Mobil1 does provide by way of specs: https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-1/mobil-1 Amsoil Signature: https://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2880.pdf What is also confusing is that oil specs keep evolving, as the API requirements keep evolving. See the difference in Amsoil 2013 spec sheet vs 2016 (attached). So mostly I would say choose a good full synthetic and stick with it. THEN if you want to pick a 0W20 oil, you can try it out and see if your Edge likes it. The ONLY negative I think is the volatility of the 0W20 oil may be significantly higher, almost like dino oil, compared to 5W20. Lower volatility is very good, especially for the 2011+ MYs. It will definitely help with the oil migration issue, and any other PCV related issues. I would stick with Amsoil Sig's 5W20 product instead of the 0W20 just on pure specs, but again, I would have to try and verify. As far as filters, they DO make a difference, to me the most important is how fast they get oil to the engine on startup. I have tried K&N, Mobil1 EP filters in addition to Motorcraft. The ONLY one that does not rattle is Motorcraft. I will be trying the Purolator BOSS and the AFe filters maybe next year some time. I hate that rattle (timing chains). If you can find a filter that does not cause a startup rattle, then if it is full synthetic media and claims extended oil change intervals, it might be worth switching over from MC. Since you have a 2011, the IOLM is likely useless, set for 10,000 mile reminders. Go by engine hours rather than miles. I would say 100 hours is a good goal for mixed driving, not to exceed 200 for highway only driving. Blackstone Labs will be your friend to determine what is right for YOUR Edge. Not sure if all Edges bound for Canadian customers get block heaters automatically. amsoil signature oil pds 2016.pdf Amsoil Signature Series 100% Synthetic Motor Oil.pdf

Welcome, & congratulations! Post pics of your new ride plz Happy Trails!

Fluid Film is your friend Welcome to the community and Edge ownership, GT! Envious of RAPTOR-ship

The intercooler looks to be pretty cheap, so at worst we could pool funds to get a brand new unmolested one F2GZ-6K775-A Inter-Cooler EDGE; 2.7L $145.40 $100.33 I looked up car-part.com but JYs seem to want almost as much for used units. You will also find that AJPTurbo (EBPF forum) has done quite a bit of tuning with higherE fueled vehicles, up to E45 in the SHO, and would be a good resource for tuning if we needed him. Anyone tried running the Edge without the appearance cover in place?

Good info, thank you!

I wanna say the second is possibly a cylinder head temp sensor? But not sure on that.

Hmm, perhaps a PCM recalibration would help with that ABS error?

Great to hear, keep us updated!

Just be sure NOT to lubricate the struts. You can clean them, but do not spray any type of lubricant on them.

I would more likely bet on the 3 month durability. 6 months would be a stretch with this particular product, great as it is.

Great mods thus far!

Many actually get covered under warranty/extended warranty. We will never know if it is a significant number/%age or not.

Agreed with the pinning. Do not like tampering with original discussions/trains of thought.

https://www.google.com/url?q=http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/23134-driver-side-power-window-switch-2013-ford-edge-limited/ Looking at the wiring harness/connector may be a good place to start.