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And there you have it! As far as parts, usually people in the GCC will get them from a local dealer OR they will pony up the customs/shipping fees and have them shipped from the US/Canada. Either way, not cheap I use FordParts.com because I am in the U.S.A. Not sure there is a GCC equivalent site. They mainly seem to new car sales oriented and fluff material otherwise. https://www.me.ford.com/en/are/ownersite/parts/

https://www.amazon.com/MAXFLOORMAT-Floor-MAXTRAY-2015-2017-Complete/dp/B014F6OQ90/

I am sure there is a lot of dirt intrusion not only into parts but electrical connections. worth having a look at/cleaning up & greasing the fan connections. costs little to get that done. If it works, hey, BONUS! Otherwise, replace fan assembly, keep the original control module with you though, especially if you go with aftermarket fans. There might be ONE video on YouTube where they repair an Edge fan assembly. For the most part though, outright replacement IS standard. The passengerside fan is the "primary" fan. It will run whenever the coolant temp exceeds approx 210F or so. The driverside fan is dedicated for use when the A/C is turned on. The fans are of the continuously variable variety. One way to save your fans? Keep the coolant fresh. Fresh coolant = better passive cooling = less need for fans. Saves the water pump too!

I bet you can pull the engine, replace the alternator, and reinstall the engine in under 51 minutes! Seriously, they should at least refund you. Was it a motorcraft reman, did you get it from NAPA, ...?

Daein' weel, thenk ye fur askin'. welcome in, glad to hear your Edge has served you well. Please do post pics!!!

Good luck, hope it works out! Macbwt reviews Maxpider liners for his 2011 on his YT channel, maybe they have something for the gen 2? What problems did you have with the Weathertechs?

Playing games with you ...

Nice!

Sometimes ya gotta get the pros in there. Progress is good!

. Allllrighty then ...

How many miles on your Edge? Are there any other electrical troubles happening? I would say get the alternator tested. It simply may not be charging the battery correctly.

Lets all keep the discusiion focused, folks. Not saying who's right or wrong, just that we want to leave a positive "legacy" for future forum users . Appreciate your understanding! Yes, the radiator has a plastic petcock, use care when opening/tightening, No, it is not fully removable (without pinching it) so it wont just fall out, Yes, it can be messy draining the radiator, No, you will not be able to drain ALL the coolant at one time in a drain/fill operation, Yes, you should have the dealer perform the flush you can then drain/fill on your own at say yearly intervals, but it is your choice if you don't trust the dealer A flush is the best way to go because of its thoroughness. HOWEVER, if you want to drain/fill yourself, repeat the operation at least 4 times to get a near complete coolant change. Use ONLY Motorcraft coolant for drain/fills. You do NOT want to mix in other brands of coolants using drain/fill. The chemistries are different. As to which coolant, it will be either Motorcraft Specialty Green or Orange. Use the color that is currently in your vehicle. If uncertain, take clear pics and attach the pics to a post here. IIRC, The overflow/degas bottle cap should indicate which one to use, albeit figuratively. Do NOT mix different color coolants. They are NOT 100% compatible.

Well, I looked up the fuse information in the shop manual, not the owner's manual, and that is what it said. HVAC module, DATC (Edge) - with heated front seats, Dual Climate Controlled Seat Module (DCSM) (MKX) Prob a hail mary anyway.

Welcome! I assume this is the car battery, not the keyfob battery? Sounds like you have what is called a "parasitic draw" that is killing the battery. How many days between installation and "death"? Are you leaving devices plugged into the power points of the car? Are the terminals on the battery clean and tight or are they loose/crusty? Do you have issues with a CD player skipping, or a shifter sometimes not going into Park? OR the alternator is not charging it properly, because starting in 2011 model year, Ford implemented a smart charging system. Every time you put in a new battery, the system has to learn the behavior of that battery. Otherwise, the car thinks it is dealing with the old battery and won't try to charge it properly. The simplest way to do it? Drive it around for the day, then park the car undisturbed for at least 8 hours. The car will keep testing the battery during that time, learning how to best charge it efficiently. Should have no problems after that. The alternator could also be at fault, though your car is relatively young yet for that. Get a Solar BA7 tester, or have a major auto parts store test the battery AND the alternator with a modern digital tester.

I feel like I'm at the Grand Canyon all of a sudden ... LOL!

Not telling, LOL. I got dibs!

The blinker fluid tank is located atop the cranium. Out of sight, out of mind.

Also check the 30-amp fuse #28 in the BJB, the underhood fuse box. That is exclusively for the HVAC module in dual zone systems. Hopefully it is shorting/blown, and the problem is simple as that. The base part number is DT4Z-19980 I believe, with a suffix that indicates the combination of options (ambient lighting, heated seats) https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/auto-parts/2013/ford/edge/sel-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/hvac-cat/controls-scat

Could possibly be the HVAC module in this case. BDA issues are far more common, but since you say the new BDAs have not fixed the issue ... HVAC ModuleThe EATC system uses a remote HVAC module that is separate from the control interface. The Front Controls Interface Module (FCIM) provides the interface for the vehicle occupants to control the climate control system. When selections are made, the FCIM communicates the selections to the HVAC module through the Medium Speed Controller Area Network (MS-CAN), and the HVAC module adjusts the climate control system components to achieve the desired state. When the climate control system is operating in AUTO mode via command from the FCIM , the required climate control system settings are determined by the HVAC module. The HVAC module then adjusts the climate control system components to the desired state. The remote HVAC module is located under the driver side of the instrument panel. Note: If you elect to replace the module, the configuration from the old module has to be loaded into the new one. 2014 Edge Heating Ventilation Air Conditioning _HVAC_ Module.pdf

Great info as always, enigma Only addn'l point I would make is that while I do like dealing with Lombard, the lowest price to be found is usually with Flood, from all indications. So shop around, folks. And use the pointers above to net yourself a deal!

I have Nitto 421Q H-rated tires on mine, I would say 7-7.5 out of 10. I would have put on Continental DWS/06 if they came in the 18" size and price Maybe I should have gone for the W-rated ones the way I drive LOL!

Well then, I will stop pouring out the information, LOL. It can be overwhelming. I am sure you will figure out what needs to be done, it really is not complicated, it just SOUNDS that way. Anyhoo ...

Change the camera. Pretty easy to DIY. Just a matter of getting the part, which sometimes can be found for a relative deal on eBay (150 instead of 300). Use OEM only! If you don't mind not having the calibrated lines, you can install a Gen 2 Edge backup camera instead. Works fine from all reports.

Reverse osmosis is not distilled water, it will still leave contaminants/particulates behind, assuming it doesn't add any based on your particular setup. Only distillation provides PURE water. There is a difference between what is acceptable to humans and what is acceptable to machines. Yes, coolant mixing works on the same principle, so if you want to use 70/30 you can. The Ford official recommendation will of course be 50/50, but it does allow for different mixes, based on local climate. These charts are for ethylene glycol based coolant: If you have the coolant handy, of course top it up with coolant. If you do not, use ONLY distilled water. Not tap water, not RO water, DISTILLED water. Very important. Yes, let the dealer do the flush, but make sure they use distilled water, not tap water. You can provide the premixed coolant, that is a great idea. But the flushing process is generally done only with distilled water, so maybe bring distilled water bottles along. We can buy this water by the gallon here in the US pretty cheaply, often 80 cents per gallon or even less. Plan on buying 5 gallons at a minimum for them to use. As far as the neutralizer enigma mentioned, I don't see a Ford product like that. https://www.fordparts.com/Products/Chemicals-EngineProducts-Coolants.aspx This is Ford's flush chemical: https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/main/product.asp?product=Premium%20Cooling%20System%20Flush&category=A/C%20and%20Engine%20Cooling%20Products Fast flush formulation Compatible with all coolant types Contains no petroleum distillates Use to flush engine cooling system whenever coolant is changed or repairs are required Does not require the use of a neutralizer Safe for aluminum water pumps I have attached a document that shows how Ford recommends flushing out old coolant and putting in new. It is for a corrosion-related recall on older MYs, but the process is what should be focused on, starting pg 8 or so. R09M043__2007-2009 Edge MKX Cooling System Corrosion_Service Procedure ORIGINAL.pdf

Hail damage - how bad, PDR or worse, dealer willing to fix before delivery? 21's - dealer willing to put on different wheels/tires 4 u, u willing to buy separately and sell the 21's privately? Sync3 - make sure the 2016 has it, not sure it is guaranteed to be on there just coz it is a 2016. Issues - always something, sloppy installation even, make sure you have plenty of warranty remaining when you buy.