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Did you see cv27's comment? Specifically "I could only find the 3100-j product on Innova's Web site. The documentation states that it can hold up to 3 scanned vehicles. Is it possible you have reached that Max? You could try to reset the device to be sure and try connecting again." all that may be needed is to delete a vehicle profile to make room for the Edge? The 3100 should work fine with the Edge, no special OBDII adapters needed. Having said that devices will read the High Speed Canbus or HSCAN, but not all will read the Medium Speed or MSCAN. So you should get the necessary codes to diagnose the issues your Edge is having, no problem. May be as simple as replacing all the plugs, or plugs AND coils, or PCM (repair/replace) + coils + plugs. Usually that is where the problem lies.

DIY Fix

You do not HAVE to remove the engine to service the water pump, but space IS tight. Pay a lot of attention to what you disconnect, because come time to reconnect, you WILL need that documentation. Decojuicer can probably give you specific pointers. He replaced the 3.5 in his recently. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/22759-rebuild-cost-of-engine/

From the owner's manual: Function Number of bulbs Trade number Headlamp high beam 2 9005 Headlamp low beam 2 H11 Foglamp (if equipped) 2 H11

Time for a new battery. Highly recommend the Optima 34 group size. It will fit, with the provided adapters. Does the charging system test ok, tho?

I have used the Philips XtremeVision and the Osram Nightbreaker Unlimited bulbs. Can't go wrong with either. Distinct improvement in lighting. Do not be tempted to install LED lighting in the lo/hi beams. They ARE perfect for the foglamps tho.

Well, the good news is ... I guess that you continued to use the recommended oil weight. The bad news is I would not recommend switching back to regular oil. HM oil really should only be used when you start seeing seeps from seals. Still it is a bandaid in the sense it just delays the necessary repair work. There are two cam position sensors, one for each bank. Not that it matters for this thread ... I think Fordtechmakuloco (?) has a video taking apart a VCT solenoid showing you what goes wrong. But the bottom line is, if you do the work to remove it, just replace it. The parts inside are difficult to obtain, mostly the screen/filter in question. At 200,000 miles, worth it anyway. Replacing the solenoids is the easiest part of this repair. If you want to dig deeper into the phasers/timing chain/tensioners/water pump, you can do it, but it is not done lightly simply due to the hours involved.

It is not tough IF you have avg or better mechanical skill, and you pay attention to the process. Basically, the VCT solenoids are accessible only by removing the valve covers, unlike some of the F150 vehicles. To access anything else in the timing system, the front cover has to come off, and that is accessed through the right front wheelwell, so you will need to use jackstands to suuport your Edge during the R&R. How long have you been using the HM oil,what weight, and why? Once you use the HM long enough, you cannot go back. HM oil makes seals swell. Swollen seals wear faster. Regular oil will then leak as the seals shrink back. What sensor have you installed?

If it's not one thing ... I believe axle replacement is the fix for the CV grease issue, unless it is just a clamp that is loose.

Yup, give it a go! If you watch the MACT videos on YT, you will see one for the pass side actuator.

Welcome and congrats! Yes, we await the full glory of "your preciousssss" in an unrestrained pictorial

Could be. Perhaps a simple recalibration is needed, or the actuators need replacing OR the HVAC module itself has gone bad. I would start by unplugging the fuse to the HVAC module for a few minutes, then plugging it back in. See if that makes any difference.

Further updates? Do you have new struts in place also?

Since you have identified a problem/solution related to the ignition switch, that may bear further investigation. I Assume you do not have push-start. I used to have a kinda related issue in my 2007. Until they replaced the cylinder/switch. Still would act up occasionally, till i got the Optima in there. No idea why.

Guess what I meant to say is I dont know if they beefed up the 6f55 for the Edge. For the SHO, it requires rigorous maintenance to keep the drivetrain humming at the 400+ awhp power levels. The engine isnt the issue nearly as much as the drivetrain, agreed. But you will see the failures I have mentioned as the miles tack on.

If a cylinder has low to no compression, either the head gasket has failed, or a piston ring has failed, meaning a new engine needs to be installed. Nobody rebuilds engines anymore. If the head gasket has failed, you can check for exhaust gases in the coolant, that is a sure sign. The PCM still looks the likely culprit, save for the compression issue.

450 awhp is the current advisable limit on the 1st gen 3.5 EB. Remains to be seen, engine-wise, what the DD limit is on the 2.7EB. But the trans, as Nick said, is still the 6F55 ... Expect torque converter and possibly clutch work if you go beyond the daily driver limits. Also, LME advises topping off the fluid just a tad beyond FULL (1/2 quart IIRC), to assist in high speed maneuvering & cavitation issues. Might want to look into that as well.

If it is the TSS/OSS, yes it will, most definitely. You should look over the throttle body and MAF sensors, plus do the plugs/pcv valve (if not the coils) first though.

well, if you are replacing the cylinder head, it makes sense to replace those gaskets as well. If only coils/plugs/pcv valve are being replaced, then NO gasket needs replacing.

Welcome, Adam, congrats on the new ride. Highly encourage getting new fluids in place, particularly, coolant, transmission, PTU & RDU. Also spark plugs depending on mileage. Looking forward to the mods you make to the Edge

Welcome aboard, Burgundy, congrats, and do post pics of the Edge! The Edge may feel huge because it can carry so much, LOL. Just set it next to a train and take a picture. All of a sudden, it will be just right

That sucks, Nick! Can't they figure out the problem, or are just doing a poor job fixing it, something simple maybe like not letting sealants cure long enough?

you can usually get a set of 4 new TPMS Ford brand sensors off Amazon or even eBay, cheaper than buying them separately.

The tester can help you figure out if it is a battery or alternator problem. I don't believe CarQuest as a brand has issues, but a standard lead acid battery cannot withstand repeated deep discharge very well. So it may be that rather than battery quality at issue. You have not stated mileage, but being a 2008, it is possible the alternator has failed/begun to fail. As to the work required to replace the alternator, check out this MACT video

Could be the keyfob batteries need replacing or the vehicle battery. If the battery is original (fob or vehicle), def time to replace. The steering is electric, not hydraulic on the Ecoboost-equipped vehicles, btw.