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The z23 kit is good, but I would eventually buy EBC Yellowstuff or Orangestuff for the pads for best performance. Hawk HPS is another option, but a couple of steps down from the EBCs. Do not expect the rotor hubs to remain shiny ... in the salt belt at least.

Welcome, there are exciting developments on the Sport mod front, so will have something to look forward to post-winter!

IDK If the bottoms of the doors are still used as rain/drain channels. If so, I would look closely at the weatherstripping there.

just be prepared to find that neither has a filter anymore. has happened to quite a few people already. in case you would want to return, make sure there is a good return policy BEFORE you buy.

Another possible consideration: any oil in the intake tube? Some MYs are prone to engine oil migration in the tube, and the fix is a new valve cover (the one by the radiator). As far as DIY fears, I remember when you first set out to polish and shine up your Edge. You ended up doing a splendid job. Definitely have skills, so I see no reason to worry.

Plugs, possibly PCV valve, and transmission fluid at a minimum. Videos on each of these subjects over at macbwt's channel Very worth your while to browse his channel/join his FB page. Questions will be answered on FB only.

Very slick!

Ummm need a pic to see what you are referring to ... Ok, I see it in your other post http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/23520-where-does-this-go/

Don't have specifics, but this is what the FSM provides: Active Grille Shutter SystemThe active grille shutter system (when equipped) is comprised of the grille shutter assembly and the grille shutter actuator. The active grille shutter system is primarily used to maximize fuel economy by reducing aerodynamic drag on the vehicle. In addition, the system is used to control coolant temperature, HVAC system performance and exhaust emissions depending on the vehicle speed. The system is also used to shorten engine warm-up time, increasing engine efficiency and providing heat to the vehicle occupants in a timely manner. PCM inputs/outputs used for controlling the active grille shutter system are the: Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor A/C pressure transducer Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) sensor ABS module, messages sent over the High Speed Controller Area Network (HS-CAN) Engine cooling fan motor Engine oil temperature Grille Shutters The grille shutters are several "slats" or "blinds" connected to one another by a linkage system. One of the individual grille shutters is fixed to the grille shutter actuator. When the grille shutter actuator moves, it moves the attached shutter which causes the other linked shutters to move. The individual grille shutters are not available for service separately, they are serviced with the grille shutter assembly. Grille Shutter Actuator The grille shutter actuator is a smart motor which receives position requests from the PCM via a Local Interconnect Network (LIN). One of the grille shutter blinds connects to the grille shutter actuator using a retainer. The grille shutter actuator can be serviced individually or as an entire assembly, which includes the grille shutters, grille shutter actuator, retainer and grille shutter housing. The grille shutter actuator positions the grille shutters based on commands received from the PCM. The full range of movement of the grille shutter actuator is a total of 90 degrees from fully closed to fully open. The actuator moves the grille shutters to 1 of 16 positions (approximately 6 degrees between positions) when requested by the PCM. Principles of Operation When the engine is turned off, the grille shutter actuator moves the grille shutters to the full open position. When the engine is started, a calibration of the grille shutter system occurs, which typically takes 15-20 seconds. The grille shutter system performs the calibration sequence by moving the actuator and shutters through their full 90 degree sweep to detect the end positions (open/close). The calibration sequence can begin in either direction, open or closed, and continues until it is successful or a fault is detected. It is possible for a long pause to occur between the 2 portions (open/close) of the calibration sequence. Calibration of the grille shutter system cannot be manually requested, it only occurs as determined by the grille shutter actuator. If certain faults are present (such as shutter blocked or actuator error) a recalibration is initiated in an attempt to resolve the concern. If the concern is not resolved after 3-4 attempts, a DTC is set in the PCM. Other faults also trigger a recalibration request, but not until a grille shutter DTC is set in the PCM. The Local Interconnect Network (LIN) supports bi-directional communication between the grille shutter actuator and PCM, allowing the grille shutter actuator to communicate position and fault information to the PCM. The PCM reports grille shutter system DTCs after the fault information is communicated by the grille shutter actuator for a predetermined amount of time. Any failures of the LIN for over 10 seconds continuously, results in the grille shutter actuator moving the grille shutters to the full open position. There is no indication to the driver that a fault with the grille shutter system is present or that a grille shutter system DTC is set in the PCM.

Good info! I will dig into the hardware end, see if I can verify the camera manufacturer.

From an eBay seller selling Ford parts. No DTCs to report

TSS/OSS sensor replacement: fear it no more! This video applies to 2007-10, but possibly also 2011-14 Edge/MKX vehicles. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/23498-tss-and-oss-sensor-removal-and-installation-the-video/

Might be a good time to upgrade to Sync3 (software/hardware). You can purchase the parts and program it yourself, but it will take some trial and error to get settings right. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/22486-sync-3-installed-in-a-2012-limited/ Or you could pull the unit and send it to circuitboardmedics, I am not sure they have repaired APIMs/screens in particular, but they do a lot of these types of repairs. If it can be fixed, the odds are good they can do it.

Have you let the car sit overnight for at least 8 hours after shutoff & all plugin accessories removed? The PCM needs to learn the charging characteristics of the new battery, that is one DIY way to do it. Or the dealer can reset the BMS for you.

Anyone run into this error using Forscan for Windows EL? Trying to recalibrate a new Ford camera

Want to move the paddle shifting function from the steering wheel to the shifter handle on your Gen 2 Edge? tmarsh shows how it can be done here http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/23453-shifter-handle/ Post 31 http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/23453-shifter-handle/page-2?do=findComment&comment=178055 Post 38 http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/23453-shifter-handle/page-2?do=findComment&comment=178125

Cool mod. Let us know how it works out in practice.

Definitely the oil pan, not the solenoid 1004ron mentioned?

check to make sure the coolant level is at or slight above the cold fill range (above the seam) when the Edge is off, cold, and parked on level ground. Low coolant can do this. It may be a blocked heater core, but let's keep fingers crossed on that. How many miles on the Edge, and has the coolant ever been flushed? I think Ford calls for 105K for first change, then every 60K thereafter.

Possibly an APIM issue, which Ford had issued an extended warranty for at one point. You can try recalibration to see if that helps. If not, try pulling the neg batt cable for > 30 minutes. There are OBD port based battery savers if you want to go to those lengths to preserve settings everywhere, up to you. Hopefully one of these two methods will sufficiently address the problem.

Sound is quite good! Reminds me of a race bike.

Great report from every angle

So this is like the shift knob you used?

Good luck on the project, hope it goes smoothly for ya!

There are a few issues with the first gen transmissions. The thud shifting to reverse could be a transmission range sensor (TRS). You can pull off the TRS connector at the transmission and verify the resistance values on the pins, that will tell you if the TRS is the issue or not. The PCM has to relearn the new parts once installed, and it is normal procedure to leave the battery disconnected the entire time the work is being done. To make sure, you can perform a KAM reset procedure to force the PCM to relearn. Did they inspect the valve body and solenoid body assembly when they were replacing the TSS/OSS sensors? If they found shavings in the old fluid, those parts should have been inspected and verified at the very least. Fine shavings are bound to be found if it is the original fluid, as the transmission "breaks in". Debris, however, can clog the hydraulic passages in the valve body, causing pressure issues, as well as possible bore wear inside the valve body. The valve body is an engine of sorts with pistons and plungers, so having debris in there is just as bad as in an engine. The solenoids in the solenoid body should have their resistance values checked to make sure they are energizing de-energizing properly, and very likely should have the gasket/filter screen replaced at a minimum. Where is the leak coming from? If it is the front cover, that is likely due to the work that was done. If your Edge is AWD however, there are other possibilities, like a leak at the transmission-PTU junction, or the PTU vent, or the PTU-axle junction. Marbles rolling is typical of broken down catalytic converters, so yes, I would inspect plugs/coils/PCM right away. More importantly, if you do not have Forscan Lite and an OBD II adapter, buy them and see/learn how your Edge is behaving. You can see what codes are set in the PCM for yourself. Then check engine operation status. Fuel trims, long term and short term, as well as oxygen sensor readings being of particular importance. If the cats are running hot, there is a problem in the fueling or in the cats. If the cats are noisy, well ... replacement is in the offing.