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F2GZ-2001-H Front Pads DG9Z-2200-F Rear Pads

OLdie but GOLdie

That being said, Ford recommendations are fine for most people in the U.S. and Canada. For extreme cold like Alaska or in that region, try the 0W oil. For hotter regions like Florida, Arizona, Texas or further south, 5W30 still works well for the Ecoboost, and should work well for the 3.5/3.7. In the Middle East, Ford recommends 10W30.

Happy Holidays, and congrats!

The water pump on the 3.5/3.7 is internal/driven by timing chain. VERY labor intensive to replace.

Technically, the oil the engine leaves the factory with is the same as recommended in the manual (5w20). The engine is already supposed to have been broken in. BUT I would still change the oil that first time early, within 3,000 miles. Albeit drive it normally during that time. The reason? This excerpt from the 2016 manual: Calculating Fuel Economy Do not measure fuel economy during the first 1000 miles (1600 kilometers) of driving (this is your engine’s break-in period); a more accurate measurement is obtained after 2000 miles - 3000 miles (3200 kilometers - 4800 kilometers).

King o the Hill!

Definitely change all the plugs and AT LEAST the #3 coil. that mileage mirrors mine, and though I have never had a misfire, I think that should be sufficient, for now. Ideally, you would replace ALL the coils (there is a kit, pretty cheap) now to avoid misfires showing up later and having to pay the labor ... again ... and again ...

I think you would be ok if you never drove it after the replacement. Check the resistance on the coils to confirm.

You can get into a round robin with coils and PCM. If the PCM is replaced/repaired, it is good practice to replace ALL coils at the same time. Hopefully he used Ford/Motorcraft coils, those ARE expensive apiece but can be had in a kit for much cheaper. Have him check the resistance on the coil drivers on the PCM, see if anything is out of whack. Then go back in and replace injectors next. May need 1 injector for cylinder 3 OR more if misfires begin to show up elsewhere. How many miles on your Edge BTW?

Jinxed yourself, eh? Happens to me all the time, LOL, I feel your pain!

Sorry to hear, bpoling, was the coolant flushed to date? Options now are to a) replace the water pump, or b] replace with a low-mileage engine, assuming you keep the Edge. The water pump can be replaced without removing the engine from the engine bay. A bit tight, but very doable.

Michelin Premiere LTX seems to be the goto tire these days.

Welcome to the community, would love to see pics of your '16!

What year Edge? Please post pics for potential buyers to evaluate.

Do you have dual zone climate control? Have you tried recalibrating it?

The coolant you used should work fine. It is strange that on the Ford chemicals site, the concentrate is the D spec, the premix is D2 spec. Meh. Not to worry. As far as oil goes, Motorcraft oil is good, just not as easy to get deals on as with aftermarket brands. Ultimately, it is about OCI. SOMEtimes, it's about the filter, can't go wrong with Motorcraft filters. There are certainly better aftermarket filters, as long as they don't cause startup rattle, you're good.

First thought: Lambos R Us. Lambo doors. Then saw Lambo "CUV". Would it have happened if not under VW ownership? IDK.

Could be a simple PCM recalibration is needed or you are now noticing this problem because the transmission is not occupying bandwidth But yes, definitely check the plugs, and be prepared to replace plugs, coils AND PCV valve. These engines do ping lightly when running lean, by design, but it is not frequent. Unless you are slugging the engine going uphill, it should not ping, if all is running well. Have you tried better gas and/or higher octane fuel? A lot of winter gas is sketchy, sometimes at namebrand stations too. I would buy and keep a set of the plugs and coils, better to have them on hand when the time comes, because it WILL come. Replace the coils, if the old coils look good, hang on to them as backup if you like. Kit part number: BA5Z-12259-A

No idea, as people who have had success with this trick have yet to report back with a yea or nay. Maybe that is a good sign?

Did Chase ever have a SHO, do you know? Wondering if it is the same person I used to know from another forum a while back ...

Any wire cutting/splicing involved? Sure you had the right part number? OEM or aftermarket part?

Ok then. Let's move on to the Blend Door Actuator. Since you have manual controls, there is only one to worry about, it is under the driverside dash in the center console area next to the gas pedal. You can try unplugging it for a bit, see if that helps. Sounds like it does move a little bit, but not fullrange. While it is unplugged, see if you can move the actuator linkage by hand, sometimes it gets stuck and needs that little help to get going. It is possible the manual control is not working properly (resistor is worn out), but most likely, it will be the BDA.

sure there is no loose piping or joints or leak?

That one should work well. I would say even to go with the SuperLightweight Shockproof, but that is not Redline approved for our applications. I think a chat with them would be merited to help make your decision if you want to stick with "approved".