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LOL, deeeeep breaths!!!

LOL, that is one way to look at it!

The exhaust smell does not discriminate. The natural gas smell is usually a PTU leak, only on AWD models. They are 2 different smells. Have the bumper flaps checked, they might be sticking.

Some of those bolts might be stubborn and have to be drilled out/cut off.

SEL for me ... 3.5L engine. 'nuff said.

One of the references that is very good to start with http://www.supersixmotorsports.com/_pdf/2016/cyclone-tech-v2.pdf Wards has an article on the 2011 update to Ti-VCT also. You can look at articles on the Mustang 3.7 to gain additional insight.

LOL

And a good process it is!

On the SHO, we only upgraded the rear swaybar, front was stock 24mm. They downsized the rear swaybar for Gen 2, Gen 1 came with the beefier rear SB. Easy sway, and a very desirable one!

Always had problems with remotes in cold and/or windy weather. The angle of approach also makes a difference in those cases.

W ... T ... F ....??? I have seen less damage from a deer collision. WOW! Glad you were far far away from the crash tho. Later MY, Lowest mileage is def the way to go. 2014 would be best, being the last yr of the Gen 1.5. If you are handy with DIY stuff, prob don't need an extended warranty, tho I have found it invaluable to have 1 keeping cars as long as I do.

Not 100% on this, but I think there is an oil control solenoid that may be at fault here? The other possibility is a leaky oil pan, those plastic pans have had issues sealing properly.

Autozone Duralast Gold high carbon rotors and their Max (?) pads are a great durable combo. Many people are using kits off of Amazon and eBay and say they like 'em. But never having used any of these, it's up to you to try them out. Main thing is, if you want to use ceramic pads, get high carbon rotors. If you decide on semi-metallics, most any rotor on the market today will do. Better pads will always provide great ROI. https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/brake-rotor/duralast-gold-brake-rotor/539223_195255_2708 https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/brake-rotor/duralast-gold-brake-rotor/539225_195255_2708 https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/brake-pads/duralast-max-brake-pads/61533_116848_16108 https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/brake-pads/duralast-max-brake-pads/61539_116848_16108 http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2007,edge,3.5l+v6,1434490,brake+&+wheel+hub,rotor+&+brake+pad+kit,13824

Smaller swaybar in front, bigger in rear helps at least FWD cars handle real well. We use/used 24/26 setups in the Gen 1/2 SHO.

You can check out Ford Protect levels of coverage here http://fordprotect.ford.com/extended-service-plan I would suggest calling up Lombard Ford and speaking with them directly. They are pretty friendly folks over there from what I hear.

I have found the PremiumCare warranty well worth it for peace of mind, but then I bought a higher mileage vehicle also. Ford factory warranty is 3/36 b2b w a few exclusions, and 5/60 for powertrain. You would run out of any warranty in about 2 years. How long do you expect to keep the vehicle? Are you committed to maintenance? If you see any issues with electronics in the next few months, put them on record, and hopefully get them resolved. Yes, they can cost a bundle to fix. But there were many more issues in the 2011 MY (when the Edge really went electronics heavy) than the 2015+ MY. I would wait till the b2b is almost up then reevaluate. If you still feel uncomfortable without warranty, buy it! An online Ford dealer can get you great pricing, PLUS your local dealer may match. Lombard, Flood, Anderson Koch, Ziegler to name a few.

Would a forceps work to get the O-ring out, instead of a pick?

pushing in on it does not work? a dealer should be able to fix for you.

Apparently it takes extensive sanding/smoothing of the textured plastic for either paint or wrap to adhere. Based on a 2010 SHO. Also just heard of a new ceramic coating for plastic by Adams that may be worth looking into.

You are correct, sir! But, as you may know, I have followed the situation with Nick's Edge from the beginning, that is why I said what I said I am very careful to make that distinction between dealer & corporate. And I stand by my original statement. Yes, the dealer definitely has a part to play, being the entity on the front lines with the customer, but considering the number of seal-related issues with the Gen 2, Ford needs to open a broader investigation and look at the whole picture, not just pieces of it.

Look into the lemon laws and be prepared to exercise your rights. Also, may want to find a different dealer to work with, though the best case in your favor unfortunately usually means same dealer throughout for consistency.

Great to hear!

Welcome to the community, benton, glad to have you here!

Some say removing the engine cover helps with preventing such infestation.

FT4Z-58500A18-C looks like the front glass only. No glass insurance? Your auto insurance should cover it, no?