WWWPerfA_ZN0W

I think Xtra just revealed his mastery of time travel. Unintentional or ...?

And Costco as well thru tomorrow

should be configurable through the menu buttons for the IPC. Both levels of cluster have the option to display instantaneous FE. No options under Trip 1/2?

Depending on how many miles the used engine has, consider doing ALL the timing components - chains, guides, tensioners, phasers, solenoids, along with the water pump. Totally fresh start.

Let us know how it progresses for you. Hopefully it will be smooth sailing. Always know the return/refund policy of the vendor selling you the engine.

I have not seen that particular spec anywhere, though various body dimensions are listed, as they are important for alignment purposes. These of course are mostly independent of suspension and height off the road. The struts I am referring to are the 2 struts, not the power arm. The power arm is used to simulate the manual effort you would initially apply to the opening of the liftgate, but the two struts do the rest of the work to lift. EDIT: Other model lines received the adjustability feature earlier than the Edge. Case in point, the Escape, as seen in this video

Should be able to drive it and have it reset automatically (same gen Edge?). Typically you drive for 10 miles or more at speeds above 20mph to get the TPMS to recognize the "new" sensors. If that does not work, a training tool is needed, although i have seen it done with a strong magnet instead.

I do not believe it is adjustable, as I do not see any mention of a process for it in the owner's manual. Weak struts can make the liftgate not open fully, so maybe new struts will help with full extension. That's what it did with mine (manual liftgate) before I installed new struts. EDIT: 2015 was the first MY where you could adjust the height, AFAIK. Lower, not higher.

well, they CAN put in a used engine, it depends on the dealer. but that could reflect poorly on them if things go south with the nused engine. try and find an independent shop that will replace the engine for you. you can find one for yourself on car-part.com (any 2011-14, maybe even later MY but not sure) engine will do. It has to be the Ti-VCT variant, and using an Edge engine gives the best chance of plugnplay. say 1,000 for the engine, probably 1500 for labor? repairpal.com can provide estimates accurate to your area, but IDK if they cover engine replacement. Reputable shops can be located via yelp.com and repairpal.com recommendations, if you have no word-of-mouth recommendations to go by. EDIT: I am assuming you have the 3.5 engine, as you did not specify. 2011 had 3.5 and 3.7 options, with the 3.7 being only in the Sport trim.

Are they quoting you for a Ford remanufactured engine? You get 3 yr unlimited mileage warranty with that. Various levels of used engines can be found via websites like car-part.com. May or may not have warranty. Plus labor to R&I. Still less than the dealership cost.

This qualifies as special operating conditions/severe duty application. Coolant change (meaning flush) at 30K is fine, starting from the beginning, not waiting 100K for the first time. Green and Orange MC coolants used in the Edge have had no issues. Only the Gold used in older MY vehicles caused any issues. If you do a coolant flush, you have the option of either Motorcraft or aftermarket extended life coolants that meet the Motorcraft spec. If you only drain/fill, stick to using the Motorcraft Orange. Oil & filter ... you will want to track engine hours between oil changes and not exceed about 100 hours or so. And definitely don't overthink this schedule, too easy to do

full synthetic oils do make a difference even in the naturally aspirated engines. if you plan on holding on to the Edge for a good bit of time, full synthetic is a cheap cheap investment. Go to any auto parts store. Look at the price difference between synblend and full synthetic. Plus Mobil1 and Pennzoil/Quaker State usually have some rebates running at some point during the year. Good time to stock up and save some green.

If you notice excessive lean into corners, that is more indicative of SB links. Otherwise, given that you are in NJ, I would say time to do suspension (struts/shocks/mounts) at all 4 corners.

Burgundy17, you cannot go wrong with the maintenance intervals you have specified. Yes, the tow package will help with the cooling system, but the fluid change frequency is still key. As far as impurities, those are created during the life of the coolant due to degradation of the additives (mostly). Bearing failure or death wobble is also a contributor to WP failure. So it is important to keep the timing system clean (regular oil changes with quality oil) so it stays in shape and thus it does not put undue stress on the WP bearings. Of course if you do a lot of sudden acceleration/slowdown, mechanicals being what they are, there will be moments of slack/uneven tension in the chains, putting extra wear on the WP bearings. So don't drive it like a racecar all the time, LOL. Rush hour traffic with fast speedups and sudden slowdowns can be heck too.

Installing the seal correctly is usually the trick in the driveline, whether is it the axle or the PTU in question.

Somewhat like it https://okaloosa.craigslist.org/cto/d/2008-ford-edge-sel-custom/6501522826.html

Is it a 55W kit or a 35W kit? I think the 55W goes by BOLT and 35W kit goes by BLITZ nicknames.

Time to get a Gen 1 for those roundabouts, then you will be master & commander

Doubt it. They consider these "minor" repairs. Just like cracking open the trans case and having to replace clutches.

Can you set the headlights on MANUAL rather than AUTO? Does the problem still exist? The flicker/polarity issue you speak of is with LEDs, at least I think that is what you are referring to? Might definitely need to put on relays and wire the headlights directly to battery power rather than thru the fusebox. 35W kit or 55W?

Glad to hear, and good luck!

buy well-reviewed ones only. def don't want the thing coming apart inside the engine, LOL.

Cooling fans, stock, kick on about 210F for the Gen 1. Tstat starts opening about 190F. would be nice if it is just the cooling fans! Only 1 cooling fan comes on when climate control is not engaged. If climate control is engaged for any reason, meaning A/C, both fans will run. Maybe just a dirty connector? Try cleaning and greasing.

Since the flashpoint of gear oil is about 400F, what is the point where it is considered overheated? I am thinking low to mid 200s, but IDK. https://www.efficientplantmag.com/2013/12/lubrication-checkup-gearbox-overheating/ An oil-temperature rise reacts according to the Arrhenius rule—a temperature- change-dependent failure-rate rule—that states for every 18 degrees F (10 degrees C) increase in temperature of the oil, the lubricant life cycle is halved.

Pretty sure the 6120 stops fitting past MY 2014, looking at mfr catalogs. Not finding aftermarket fits yet. The Sachs product has outlasted the Monroe by a significant margin for macbwt. Possibly a case of product quality being >>> warranty.