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i hear batteries plus can program keys, you can check with them. nowadays, hardware stores can cut the physical key. look up ratings for fobs on amazon and pick a well-reviewed vendor. KeylessOption is what i have used in the past. you can have the whole package thru the mail using https://fxbgkeys.com Jeff Leeper is a principal in the business.

check for codes. if there are existing codes, they may be preventing the engine from starting. happens with remote start for sure, dunno about key/pushbutton starts.

welcome, nice ride. note that 3.5EB will be a difficult job without some massaging of the frame and body. the transverse version is too wide to fit in the current config/space, and the longitudinal version, well, needs more room up front. might be better off putting in a 2.7 or 3.0 EB. if retaining the current engine, you can watch videos on the Edge on YT ... my sig gives you some ideas.

using coolant sealer products will not work in the long run, nor if you step to anything above low throttle. ChrisFix has a video where he has tested such a product. best deal is to either trade your vehicle in, or put in a nonCleveland block, OR go for a full Sport conversion ?

mileage? maintenance history as above? when codes happen, start with the simplest possible reasons. combustion is fuel + air + spark. you have not addressed spark yet. although not common on the 2010 MY, i certainly hope the PCM is not fried.

Looks good! never needed one on sedans as they don't come with one lol. but i do drive in as much of a "360" mode as possible as it makes traffic motion more predictable. plus activating the rear wiper/washer occasionally lets the driver behind me know i am watching them lol. nobody thinks twice about a rear cam watching them.

that's the ford philosophy ... not bad, not great, but good enough. works well for the average owner, or has worked i should say, given that "normal" conditions as defined by them seem to be disappearing.

Looks grrreat!

you can now opt for LED replacements for HID bulbs if you so please. but there is some wiring (not terrible) for the good ones.

sounds like the new year will hold a lot of promise!

when powertrain or electrical/electronic items are not working on modern vehicles, it is often useful to start by reading any OBD codes that may be present. i recommend purchasing Forscan Lite software + the OBDLink MX+ obd adapter combo. ASSUMING the suspension/steering is similar to stateside vehicles, you can peruse the shop manual here: https://drive.google.com/drive/u/2/folders/1wBzOTmEZvCvnzvmTI470QBGyYX60xDBh and parts can be looked up here: https://www.fordpartsgiant.com among other online ford dealers. EDIT: and yes battery issues are quite common especially on vehicles not kept on a battery tender/driven a good amount on a daily basis.

one of two things - radiator fans, or water pump. fans are very common to go out on 2011-2014 MYs (1.5 gen), and can actually lead to engine overheating. hope you have maintained coolant regularly. 46K is VERY low mileage for a 2011 and if you have been going by ford maintenance schedules, you are on the wrong track. you need to use 5 year/60K miles from mile 0 as your service interval for everything (except PTU (AWD) fluid). coolant, transmission, brake, power steering ...

very likely an electrical problem of some kind. the 3.5 engines had issues with the throttle body, but the 2015 MY had some scattered reports of random electrical issues. check battery health and wiring/terminals for sure. you should change ALL fluids when you change the ptu fluid. don't depend on ford maintenance intervals, as they are overstated for most of us who don't have the perfect long highway cruise all day every day. so - trans, coolant, ptu, rdu, and brake fluids should all be on your radar.

if you are ok with no puddle lights or entry lights, you can turn Dark Mode on using Forscan for Windows/extended license if applicable to your MY.

please provide more information about your ride, tuned or untuned, engine/trans/suspension/brake/etc modifications and more. have you had your vehicle since new, and how many miles on it. how often do you maintain fluids? hopefully not an engine coolant/oil issue ... https://drive.google.com/drive/u/2/folders/1vQcTXmba9Z2AMvYe7ClAplR16ltQm6ES recommend a good obd scanner like BlueDriver or OBDLink MX+ to pick up trouble codes.

odyssey will always test about 20% higher than rated. using virgin lead helps a lot. non-virgin lead based agm batteries may start off 10% higher but wont hold over the longterm. just my experience.

haven't had any issues with the inchannel weathertechs on our 2007. yes there is a slight clack when fully closing the window, and yes, you do have to wipe down the windows periodically to keep the dirt off etc but performance is good.

sweetness. glad you trimmed the cover anyway. shows off that nice metal shine, puts a break in that sea of plastic, kind of like accentuation.

chip shortage is driving up prices of electronics, but i didnt think THAT much. check on rockauto.com for alternatives/pricing. oem for under 100 here https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313&_nkw=yh1823+7t4z19e624&_sacat=0

didn't see any mention of mileage or fluid maintenance history, so i will list the common problems for this gen: torque mount - usually feel this in every gear. save for the rust issue, they are not difficult to replace. as with anything on this vehicle, patience, new fasteners, ford/motorcraft parts etc are good to have on hand. plan in advance, as prices these days are ridiculous. tss/oss failure - singlemost common electrical failure on this transmission. always replace in pairs, and use motorcraft, or if using aftermarket parts, use the gaskets from the old OEM parts on the new sensors. Ford/MC is best way to go tho. solenoid body assembly - #2 in line with electrical failures. you can use ford diagnostics from their shop manual to figure it out. replace solenoid filter at same time. torque converter - see these from time to time. can be replaced without removing the transmission, but it is a task. valve body - very rarely see these go bad, sometimes a piston gets jammed. you can opt to replace the check balls if you open up the VB. that said, there was a problem acknowledged in a Ford TSB for mercon LV spec'd transmissions about needing modified valve body plates and removing a checkball to correct a "bump" condition. but at low speeds, not in overdrive. transmission range sensor - very rarely see these go bad either. ford has a TSB on how to confirm failure. in descending order of likelihood. since it ONLY happens when in overdrive, i would suspect torque converter involvement. turn off the O/D and see if the problem goes away. if so, try a tube or two of Lubegard Shudder Fixx (if fluid has been maintained). if current fluid has not been maintained but is still free of debris and smells good and no worse than brown color (2010 uses Mercon LV which turns brown quickly/naturally), do a full fluid exchange first. there is no point adding the lubegard if the fluid is in poor condition. videos that show you how to replace all but TC and TRS are available on the MACT FORD EDGE YT channel https://www.youtube.com/c/MACTFordEdge/videos

if there is a replaceable resistor, you may need to check that. when it fails, it defaults to HIGH.

yeah i would garage queen the Bullitt too! Looking forward to the winter romps of Sir Edge!

sweet! will look over the thread. EDIT: over 600 posts lol, will take time. if you do whipple it, consider going up to 5w30 in a thicker oil like Redline, or even 10w30 in pennzoil or valvoline. more power needs stouter oil. and the xg filters have been great, but they recently changed the design a bit, so no idea how well they perform now. purolator boss is a worthy alternative.

what trim level/engine? looks like a Bullitt color but not too familiar with how widely used.