badgb21

I did the mod to my 2012 a while back - worked well; http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/2714-power-outlets-always-stay-on/page-2?hl=badgb21

Hi I changed to HID's a while ago now and had all kinds of issues and tried adding capacitors, nothing solved the problems. Only a change to these; http://drivebright.com/home/product-category/hid-headlight-replacement-kit/ Call these guys and talk to them, they should be able to sort you out - it's all in the ballasts! Older thread here: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/19180-55w-hid-problem-in-auto/?do=findComment&comment=141104

Hi Quite a few have suffered with this. Answers are varied and buried in threads - my tale:- I installed 35w with a harness, ok for a short while then one light would not fire. Switch to off then 'on' and was ok. I tried capacitors and same story, ok for a few days, then same problem. Finally sorted by fitting Drive bright HIDs - Their ballasts have been designed to prevent this and they work! You could try swapping to their ballasts, though I'm sure they'll give you a million reasons why its better to buy their whole kit (which I did, it's good quality too!) See my post 103 here: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/12054-what-is-the-best-hid-kit-for-the-edge/page-6 company is http://drivebright.com/home/ I have no association with them, but found them very knowledgeable, helpful and speedy. Good luck. Kev

I used fuse 41 in this power outlet mod; http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/2714-power-outlets-always-stay-on/page-2?do=findComment&comment=138234

I changed my power oulet to work with iginition on only: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/2714-power-outlets-always-stay-on/page-2?do=findComment&comment=138234

I couldn’t wait for any expert advice so investigated further and managed to do it! Here’s some advice for the laymen out there. All this should be possible for around $10 First you’ll need a circuit addition thingy as referred to in this thread; http://www.ebay.com/itm/390596568367?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648&rmvSB=true Some wire (approx. 6ft), I used 14 gauge and some auto electrical connectors suitable for 14 gauge wire. Additional tools to a regular tool/electrical box; Inspection Mirror is handy, but not essential, voltmeter and a good flashlight. The power outlet will eventually come out with some persuasion! I eased the plastic panel out that the outlet is part of. I was then able to squeeze my hand in from the bottom corner and get to the back of the outlet – the mirror helped here. After some wiggling and pushing I could then get a medium sized screwdriver under the flange on the outside and it eventually popped out. Be very gentle here and work slowly, you are bending plastic tabs on the console. (I did it on a warm day approx. 80 degs) The blue and red wire carries the + and the black and white the –‘ve. Now you need to get the new wire from the driver’s foot well to the outlet. I used a wire coat hanger straightened as a snake and got the new wire via the back of the console and cable tied it in place under the drivers side. Make sure of no fouling with the steering column or foot brake. This was quite straight forward. I cut the blue and red wire at the outlet (felt like defusing a bomb!) with as much tail as possible. I isolated the ‘live’ end and taped it up. You never know it might be useful one day! With the new connectors I joined the new wire to the tail. I used the ‘circuit addition thingy’ in fuse position no. 41 (You will need to test this is only live with the ignition on, with a voltmeter.) Firstly remove the outer cover and then the inner fuse cover, to the left of the driver’s foot well. On the back of the inner fuse cover is a fuse removal tool - remove no. 41. (or use narrow nose pliers) Put this fuse into the ‘circuit thingy’, so that it continues to protect circuit 41. The fuse that came in the ‘circuit thingy’ will protect your new circuit to the outlet. Test the outlet works with ignition on and ‘Bob’s your uncle’! The power outlet goes back in with a nice pop as the lugs re-seat. The ‘circuit thingy’ won’t allow the inner fuse cover to sit back in place. This now resides in my glove box The outer cover goes back fine. And that’s it. Took about an hour. Shame about the inner fuse box. No doubt someone will come on and tell me of dire consequences running without it! Or perhaps a solution. I couldn’t imaging trimming it as it’s too fiddly to measure up. Let me know if you have any questions and I’ll be pleased to help. You do this at your own risk, don’t blame me if you try and you get in a mess! If it does all go wrong, don’t panic just take it to a radio install place and confess your sins!

Thanks for the replies. I know it's been a while but I'm still determined to do this. I have a fuse tap (add a circuit - as per ebay link above) I will determine a suitable fuse based on above posts. My real problem is how to get to the back of the front power outlet in the paggenger foot well of my 2011 SEL ??? Any video links or instructions with some ideas would be appreciated. Thanks

Thom6998 - I think you have made a good choice with the 5000k bulbs. Good luck with the fitting. Pleased to advise the 'auto on' continues to work fine!

Does anyone have any specific details/instructions on how to wire the front outlet so it is only live when the ignition is on? Thanks Kev

I currently have a DDM HID 9006 kit on my 2011 Ford Edge, since Sept 2013. 5300k 35W with wiring harness. Auto on has never worked properly, despite additional capacitors fitted from HD Extra. (Note: Auto can work for a week or so after first fitting and then one light would fail to start. It works ok on manual) the auto is a hit or miss affair with many kits, from what I’ve read, IMHO - despite what some posts may say! Relay connectors in the harness have corroded and relay has now failed on two occasions. Both lights fail to work when this happens. Needed to unplug relay: clean pins and tap/bang it (assume something sticking inside) to get it to work. 12/18/14 8:11am Following Dan Smith’s recent report on The Edge forum I ordered a new HID kit 5000k 35W from him at http://drivebright.com/home/ (kc300c on Edge Forum) $116 incl postage. 12/18/14 9:43am Got an email from Dan requesting vehicle and bulb details. 12/24/14 - Kit arrived. On inspection, there seemed to be some additions to the DDM harness, e.g. some gold colored resistors. I was disappointed to see the relay on the harness is the same and was the weak point of the DDM. I will tape this one up from new, from head to toe. Maybe a shrink cover on this would help. There is a wiring diagram in the box for use with the harness and the paperwork refers you to instructions online, also see details on back of diagram. Dan soon pointed me to the online YouTube video, however this does not include the harness, which is an optional install anyway, so you’ll need to follow the harness wiring diagram if fitting a harness. I liked the ballast mounting bracket and position. I didn’t find it necessary remove the airbox as shown in the video. I also recommend using an inspection mirror (from eBay or small shaving mirror) and flash light to be sure the bulbs are seated correctly. 1/4/15 – I installed the harness and lights. Being the second kit I’ve fitted, it was all straight forward, with bulb fitment being the trickiest bit. Trim the tabs as per the video and take your time. My garage was 38 degs and not being used to working in the cold, it was not the easiest conditions. For the ground connection on each side I used the same bolt that is used to mount the ballast. The bolt is long and sticks down below the thread under the bodywork. I sanded the underside of the threaded flange, placed the ground cable and used the extra nut from the kit supplied on the bolt from below. Getting the resistors cable tied without touching anything (as they get hot) just takes a bit of thought but is ok. Lights worked, so I finished up with the cable ties and got everything secure. I adjusted one of the lights for height adjustment; I may have caused it to move during installation - simple hex key at back of light unit. Lights work ok on auto and now need to see how this goes after a period of 2-3 weeks. Overall, very straight forward to fit. Just need to see how the auto works…………. I will post up here in a few weeks to advise. I have no connections with Dan, but I am extremely pleased with his service and hope I get many years life from this install. If you have any problems with the how to install, then I’m sure Dan will be able to assist. Just give yourself plenty of time and maybe a mild day with vehicle outside would be the best option for light. Kev Update 1 - The lights on auto still working! Keeping fingers crossed! Update 2 - 5000k lights are not too blue and I prefer the color of these to my previous DDM 5300k bulbs Update 2 - 3/12/15 Auto on continues to work perfectly! Update 3 - 11/8/15 = All's good!

Dan Smith Drivebright.com Hey Dan - I am so fed up with my DDM HID lights ( no auto and relay now failing twice!) I have just ordered a kit on your site. I look forward to hearing from you to confirm details. I will post up my full experience from start to finish to let others know how this whole thing goes! Thanks Kev

I cleaned the pins and used some WD40 in the female part. Re-located to a dryer spot up near the fuse box and taped it up.

Turned out to be corrosion in the large square 4 pin connector in the wiring harness. Kev

Hi Hope this helps. 2011 Ford Edge 4WD SEL Hi I have just fitted some DDM HIDs and wiring harness and Im really pleased with the results. Thanks to all the many posts on here and the YouTube video by Dan Smith it was a relatively easy job. I thought I add some tips to help anyone else who is considering this easy job: 1. I went for 35w 4500k These still have a slight blue hue to them and the light is so much better for driving. 2. I ordered from the DDM website the above bulbs, ballasts, wiring harness (dual in dual out), 9006 bulbs, the mounting brackets are a waste of time and you dont need the error eliminator or the adaptor cables. If in doubt call them first. 3. Before you kit arrives get familiar with the OEM bulbs 9012/HIR2 Getting them in and out was quite difficult. You will definitely need an inspection mirror. $3.50 from ebay or squeeze a shaving mirror in there. Use a torch and see how the tabs lock into place. I ended up filing some of the tabs to make them fit easier. Be careful as they file down very easily, go slow and a bit at a time. 4. Many have not used a wiring harness, but its very easy to fit and may preserve your cars harness one day! To fit: start at the battery terminals, the one with the inline fuse is the + Feed the cable around to each light. Follow the cars OEM wiring path and at the end of job, cable tie into place. 5. Mount the ballasts to the side of the headlight housing. There are two pips in the center of the space which makes it a pain, so you need to bridge these. I used some extreme sticky backed Velcro from Home Depot. Cut two strips and stick in place above and below the pips on the housing, this appeared to bridge the pips ok. I managed to use so plumbers strapping tape over one ballast just as a safety precaution but couldnt get the lower screw in on the other side, so left it. I'll keep an eye on it. The cables wont let it go too far. 6. Connecting the wiring plugs is almost fool proof, just look out for the locking tabs so they mate properly on the larger connectors to ensure correct polarity. Take your time. Lay out the whole thing on the garage floor - harness and bulbs before you start if in doubt to see how it all connects. 7. Drill the back covers as per the video and fit the grommet in place. The 9006 bulbs fitted quite easily with no filing required. I was concerned about this after all the reading I'd done. I used the middle size rubber gasket supplied. You need to get the long return wire which is the white strip that runs along against the bulb glass at the bottom of the headlight housing when fitted. Strangely I managed this on one side but it ended up being about 90 degs off on the other side? The light pattern still looks ok. Take your time, use the mirror. I did it outside on a bright day and a torch with warm hands! Be sure all the tabs are in place. 8. Bulb alignment there is an adjustment for up and down only at the back of the housing. Its an allen key fitting. The manual says you cannot adjust the width (unless others know more) You can do all the measuring etc, but what matters is how it looks on the road, so I just did this: My OEMs were off anyway, so I needed to adjust them. Firstly I made sure both lights were the same level by shining on a garage door at night. Then a couple of trips around the block told me they both needed to come down a touch and that was it. You can then follow someone you know in the dark and see if they blind their mirrors. Also do a passing in opposite directions to check if the lights are blinding. For less than 70 bucks incl capacitors the improvement is amazing! If anyone has any questions you can reach me at badgb21 at Hotmail dot com Im no mechanic but Id be pleased to help if I can! Edit - One of my lights didn't fire up if starting from auto position on the light switch. I can solve it by turning the switch to off, then switch them on again. I fitted some capacitors from http://www.hidextra.com/capacitor/ very good service and seems to have solved problem. DDM were disappointing on the follow up with this problem. I would go to hid extra for all components if starting again today. Edit - Lights now fail on auto, even with capacitors. Kev

Fitted them about a year ago, have worked fine (except for auto on, but have lived with that) and just today neither come on, no flickering or anything? Going to investigate tomorrow, but wondered if anyone had experienced this and where I can start to start looking. They are DDM HID's Thanks Kev