wannabang

I have a Pioneer unit, and I'm pretty sure most of them you can buy an additional piece to retain steering wheel function. I always buy my HUs from Crutchfield.

Oii, Chris! I hail from Ohio as well! While I can't help you with your lighting, as I have a first gen Edge, welcome!

FWIW, just put the HIDs in and they look great. The TRS kit looks and feels like a high quality product. Only downside was a lack of vehicle specific instructions and components, so we had some extra wires and connects that may not have fit totally properly.

The power wire can be run under the car. besides, it's a huge time-saver since the threading under panels takes years, then fitting it through the firewall is a tough squeeze. There are not RCAs for your main 6x8 speakers as they are applified by the headunit itself, but if you have a stock subwoofer, then I would imagine there'd be RCA for a sub back there. You can move the stock sub's RCAs to the RCAs for regular speakers which should be back there. Unfortunately, I don't believe the stock HU has a low-pass/high-pass filter to only send adequate signals to the stock sub, which would be run as a typical speaker.

Ah! I love installs. Fortunately, the first gen makes it easy to get to the back of the headunit, which is where you'll find the RCA connections, unless you use an LOC, which will convert the signal to a rear speaker into the necessary signal for RCA connection, so you'll lose the stock sub, or your rear speakers. Your remote wire I believe can be wired to somewhere in the fuse box, but I just put mine in the head unit when I replaced it. lol Best part about this car was not having to get the power wire through the firewall. Under the spare, there's a rubber grommet. I ran my wire under the car and ziptied it to pieces of metal along the way. As long as the rub isn't on the exhaust or next to anything intensely hot in the engine bay, you'll be fine.

Who did your halos?

Next time I'm in the market for anything lighting related, you'll be the first place I look. I could careless about cooler colors, anyway. TRS had a priority express mail thing happening, so I wasn't able to change the order, unfortunately. Still, maybe I can convince Mom she needs new headlights, but they will definitely be my brother's xmas present for his edge.

Dang. I want on your email list! Already ordered the TRS kit, KC, but my dad drives a Taurus. Looks like that's a kit for a Civic, but do they use the same bulb. 9005? If I here back from you in an hour, I may be able to cancel the other order

I'll keep that in mind. And nice! Same thing with Retro, only they sent me the ballast and an invoice, and now I have to mail them back mine.

I think the motors are just weak to begin with, and combined with the weight of the window, it struggles, but mine hasn't failed and it's six years old.

I like your truck a lot. Is it lowered, or do your wheels just fill it out? One thing that may be a different, but nice touch, is plasti-dipping the spoiler to make it blend in with the roof. I've been thinking of doing it to mine, but I love that there's that little chrome around the emblem. I'm so happy I left it on mine.

I can't even do that with Retro-Solutions, but the replacement is an email and 2-day shipping away. It's the lifetime warranty that's attractive. Since the Retro kit is 3 times the price and I had a ballast issue after two years that cost me $40. My single HID headlight was still better than both halogen projectors, so I'm not really worried about immediate replacements. I'll read more into the warranty, but from what I understand, the DDM harnesses aren't the best, but the HIDextra kit has free shipping, which is a plus.

I don't necessarily want to pay the $30 for the relay harness from Morimoto, since that's half the price of the HIDextra kit, but the $10 one from HIDextra looks like it would work fine with the DDM product. I like DDM's lifetime warranty, but it will be about $10 more than the HIDextra.

*disclaimer* My dad drives a '10 Taurus. My dad has been marvelling at my Edge's light output for quite some time. He also drives with his high beams on, even is relatively lightend areas, at night because it's easier to see. I figured HIDs would be a good father's day gift. I came here since some of those at TCCA (taurus forum) can be somewhat of pricks about HID discussion (sorry if you're over there). I have HIDs in my reflector housing. Yeah, it's not super clear, but it's still better than stock. My dad's taurus has a halogen projector in it. I figured it'd be better than mine, but still not as good as having an HID projector would do. Just came to get opinions. It seems those at TCCA are whole-heartedly against using HIDs in anything but an HID projector, even if the lights are aimed at or below the appropriate cut-off. Also, I have Retro-Solutions HIDs, but decided I didn't want to order those for unsaid reasons. I don't know much about DDM, and I've heard Morimoto is currently having issues with their ballasts. HIDExtra was something I came across, and I understand some members here use their HIDs. It will be a 35W 5000k 9005 kit in a halogen projector. Any objections?

That looks great! One of the reasons I had gotten the first gen in 2012 was ease of replacing that radio... then I found metra kits and am kinda bummed. They look amazing.

I don't believe I'm in warranty. They suspect the capaciter, so they are sending me a new ballast and capaciter at factory pricing. ~$37 for both. They will then determine if the dead ballast I send them is dead because of something I did, or a defect, and if a defect, they will refund my payment. So goes the world. Probably will ignore "kits" next time I buy HIDs, and retrofit in the future.

I tend to prefer black on the edge's, even on colors such as my dark blue. Companies seem to be overdoing it with the chrome nowadays.

The key to better mpg in the city is not accellerating so hard from stops. I had a problem with it too..

Saw someone who did this with zip-ties. lol. I wish I could do that. I'm just waiting for Ohio to eliminate the need for a front plate.

Those headlights do look great. I've been pondering shipping them to white while I study abroad in Australia, since I won't be driving the car. Not really sure if I want to spend all that money, though.

I know some have had some issues with RS, so I decided I'd post my contact with their sales team about what to do about my ballast. Maybe I could get some feedback from you all to help determine if I'm going about this is the right manner. A week or so ago, I noticed my passenger-side headlight was out. Contacted RS about it, and they sent me some trouble shooting techniques. Here's what I was told to do: 1. Please use the following easy and quick test steps to test system critical function and reply back with the found result: - Turn off any factory entry or safety lighting features (keeps headlamps on after turning off vehicle for short period) - vehicle engine off - turn on low beam lamps - allow them to warm up to full output - turn switch to off and count seconds until the lights physically turn off - please reply back with your result With a multimeter, the following steps can be used to check wiring harness and power supply function: (NOTE: never measure with any equipment the high-voltage output side wiring from ballast, the wiring between ballast output to bulb) A pictorial accompanying guide is available here as well: http://www.hidlightz.com/lowbeamohms.jpg Part 1) - vehicle engine off -set meter for the lowest range of ohms (Ω) resistance (usually 0-200 range), do not set to voltage! -place black probe to battery negative pole/pole terminal directly (put it there in way that it stays in place by itself) -remove plugs from relay harness that plug into the ballasts socket (12v) on both sides of the vehicle -on meter, place red probe into appropriately marked connection for measuring ohms if multiple sockets are available -with red probe, measure pin in the harness side plug corresponding to the black wire side of plug (wire exits rear of plug) -please reply back with your result for both sides, please note "0" indicates an error in test steps Part 2) - vehicle engine remains off -remove wiring harness' battery (+) ring terminal connection from battery -vehicle remains off, turn on low beams via normal vehicle controls -move black probe from battery negative pole/pole terminal and place directly to the removed ring terminal, do not test from battery pole! -move red probe to measure pin in the harness plug corresponding to the red wire side of plug (wire exits rear of plug) -please reply back with your result for both sides, please note "0" indicates an error in test steps After the steps above, please reply with your results so we can best assist you. In the meantime, and only after the previous steps, we would recommend checking individual component functional state for damage in operation, manufacturing defect, or engagement of ballast fail-safe by first swapping ballasts to the opposite sides, testing, and noting whether the issue moves with the ballast or stays put. Then swap bulbs to the opposite sides, test, and once again note whether the issue follows the bulb or stays put. Carefully inspect the wiring attached to the bulbs while transferring to the opposite sides. If a single piece of equipment is to blame, directly or indirectly, the issue will resolve on the side it is moved from and follow it to the other side. If the issue still remains on the same side, or the issue is trouble igniting that persists, you are facing an issue with power supply from the wiring. .... After I gave him my results, which were .4 ohms on either side of the wiring, and that the problem followed the ballast, they sent me this: 2. However the result you did get there may be indication that the capacitance that is part of the relayed wiring harness is damaged and not providing its necessary function. To test this for confirmation you can locate the capacitor on the relayed wiring harness (cylinder wrapped in black heat shrink about the size between a "AA" and "C" size battery) and follow the black side wire to the vehicle frame. Remove that ring terminal from the frame and repeat the test steps to find the result. It would be much more likely for the unit to possibly be damaged or engage its fail-safe rather than a manufacturing defect given the amount of time in use. There are two options to submit a ballast for testing/inspection to submit a warranty claim with the manufacturer: 1) The first option is to send in the ballast for immediate inspection/testing to have a claim processed the same or next business day upon arrival. Please visit the link below to fill out the online form, print it, and submit it online. The printed copy should be sent in with the ballast as it is required for inspection/testing to be completed and your claim to be submitted to the manufacturer accordingly. Upon claim acceptance, any replacement provided by the manufacturer for a unit covered for manufacturing defect would be issued replacement to be sent immediately. 2) The second option is to request to leave a deposit for a ballast. Kindly let us know the wattage, application and that you have read to understand the disclaimers, and we will send a PayPal invoice to you to send a deposit. A new ballast will be sent to you, at which time you can then submit the suspect unit for the purpose of making a claim using the online form, printing it, and submitting it online. The printed copy should be sent in with the ballast as it is required for inspection/testing to be completed and your claim to be submitted to the manufacturer accordingly. Upon claim acceptance, any replacement provided by the manufacturer for a unit covered for manufacturing defect would be issued refund of deposit left for the unit already received. ..... I don't have time today to do the measurements, but I didn't know if anyone had some similar experiences that could give me some insight as to whether I should ditch RS or go through their return scheme that will most likely determine that they aren't at fault, and I need to buy a new ballast.

There are some decent ones for small gauge wire behind the headunit in my '08. I imagine that's a little more difficult to access in the second gens.

God I love those wheels. I got an idea. Shorty antenna, plasti-dip the fog light bezels. Not sure if I'd do anything to the grille, since it seems to match the silver somewhat all right, at least from that angle.

I have a secondary battery in my trunk for all my audio equipment. Any information you think I should know before trying to jump it? Can I jump it with a single 12 volt, or do I have to disconnect the rear battery? The cold's been killer this year.