wannabang

Huh. Yes. Now, that I think of it, I'm not sure why I always had that idea in my head. If you don't connect the remote wire, though, it will always draw current.

Thanks! That might be an idea. I felt like I had an obligation to get one after almost backing over the neighbors dogs that neither I nor the back-up sensors picked up...

Congrats and welcome to the forum! It's nice to see there are still some first gens joining. I've found the forum extremely helpful.

Then run the wire to the remote out in your HU, or the power wire of your HU, and just remember to turn your HU off every time.

By now you must know that I'm a procrastinator. I finally got it done. Here's the write up. First, the tear down. Remove the four screws from the lower, interior trim panel of the trunk lid. (Two in each handle). Pull (hard) around the edges to remove the friction clips (11). Then remove the upper, interior trim panel from your trunk lid. It's held on with 7 friction clips. (no picture) Remove the driver's side, interior panel to get the the back of the driver's side tail light. Then remove the tail light by unscrewing the screws (There's 2 and I believe they're 7/16") and the lights with a simple twist. Now, remove the exterior trim panel above the license plate (that houses the license plate lights) by unscrewing 6 screws on the interior of the trunk lid and undoing two clasps. I used pliers to pinch the sides in and my other hand to pull the panel away. After the panel is detached, remove the license plates lights so the panel comes away from the trunk further. My lights weren't able to be removed, but it didn't create too much of a hassle. Next, pop the piece between the two lights out by pushing the two plastic clips on the driver's side in and pulling out on the piece with a screwdriver. (This was really hard to get a picture of, so I didn't LOL) Drill a hole big enough to fit the video out and power connectors through and screw the camera into this piece. **note** The paint on my finger nails is from spray paint. I'm one of the guys that leave the flyers on your door telling you that I'll be around the next day to paint your address on your curb. I chose to run the video and power wires next. I used quick splicers to attach some leftover 22 gauge speaker wire to the positive (green) and negative (black) of the reverse light. Connected the speaker wire to the + and - of the camera with butt connectors. I cut away some of the camera wires' jackets and folded them over, and stuffed each in the butt connector with its coinciding speaker wire into the same end of the connector. The camera's supplied power and ground wires were the thinnest things I have ever seen, so be gentle with them and don't expect the quick splicers to work. After this, I ran the video wire through the rubber grommet used for the stock wires between the cabin and trunk lid. This was probably the most difficult part of the process, and I opted to leave the wires exposed, but utilizing the grommet's holes. (Don't worry, the rubber conforms around the wires). Then it proceeds under the headliner, down the rear pillar, through the driver's side panel, and into the door sills to be run up behind the pedals to the "RC IN" (I think is what it's labeled) on the HU. (I'm not sure if this connection exists on all HUs, but the camera did not work when plugged into the "Vid In" connection). (Yes, that's Ron Paul's Liberty Defined. I highly recommend it.) After running the wires, I pushed the camera (attached to its new plastic base) back into place in the exterior trim panel. I shoved the video wire connection into the cabin and left the power connector in the trim panel. I got the wires into the cabin through the holes for the screws. (Don't worry, I tightened the screws fully. The camera still works and it seems water tight.) Now, you're all set. It's clean and looks pretty great from the back. (Those are grass clippings on the driveway) Oh, and each of the lines are about 2 feet from each other.

Yeah, and I'm pretty sure the amps that are signal-sensing do, too. I would always prefer to run the wire. I don't trust frequencies too much. LOL

Looks real nice! I'm also planning on leather-wrapping some interior plastic. I just don't know when I'll get around to it. Quite a bit of money for all that.

Ahh, yes. I was basing it off how I have to install my back-up camera. Better idea, Dingo.

If I guess correctly, the LPF light's wires would be fed through the panel with the license plate lights, around the trunk lid, into the cabin, to the reverse light + and -.

Looks great! Mine are real beat up. I'll keep this in mind.

I love my S3 and I know S4 owners that love it. The new features they added into I can imagine would be cool to show-off, but not use in regular application (scroll-with-eyes, facial-recognition unlock, pause-when-glancing away). I know it has a longer battery life, which I wish my S3 had, but the one thing I wish I could do, is use the AppRadio on my HU, but it only suppports the S2 and only in the newer model HUs...

Some amps have a sensor built in to sense a radio signal and trigger the amp to turn on. Others do not. Those that don't need to "tap" the amps remote wire into the HU's remote wire. ..is that what you were wondering?

Exactly what I envisioned. It's called Ecoboost man. We're saving the environment quicker.

Just received the back-up camera I ordered from Amazon. It only took 3 days for it to arrive! This is the camera: http://www.amazon.com It doesn't have any LEDs/infrared for night vision, but I have back-up sensors and maybe it'll give me a reason to upgrade my reverse lights. And for a size comparison: Double AA Battery Shot Glass I'm still recovering from doing Insanity tonight, but if I feel up to it, I might get around to installing it when it cools down. Hope to fix my steering wheel controls and finish debadging the truck, too. I'll keep a log of the steps I took to install this (with pictures)

Ahhh. I would hate to touch the 2nd gen headunit, or anything dealing with the dash for that matter. I miss the old ford headunits, where you could just pull the radio out and slide it back in.

Unfortunately, I don't have a leather interior.

Congrats on the car and baby! I, too, have an '08. Welcome to the forum!

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/12231-2007-10-ford-edge-projector-headlights-with-led-halo-and-accent-strip-black/ There ya go.

I'm pretty sure there's a thread on in this section that has someone who has the lights installed. I'd think they'd be bright enough to use as a running light, but of course not as a headlight.

The headlights' housings are only available for the second generation edge 11-13, unless you swap the bumper and whatnot on yours. White can do some modifications to your headlights if you message him on his FB page. The link can be found somewhere in the thread. There's plenty of guys that have wrapped their grilles with stuff from metrorestyling.com and, unless you're using plasti-dip, I believe the emblem has to be made or is only available as an overlay.

Anyone followed through on this. It's a really cool idea, and I was just looking for some more pictures. I'm going to save up to do it.

You should have a wiring diagram in your kit, or have access to one online. It really is a one man job, but if your brother has more wiring experience then it might go faster. I could not stand our stock head lights. They don't shine bright or at a helpful angle, and my HIDs solved everything. When I aimed mine, I had to lower them a bit to avoid blinding other drivers, especially since we have reflective housings and the beam will be a bit jagged because of that.

I have Digital 35W retrosolution HIDs, and I've thought of getting fogs. They took maybe 20 minutes to install, minus time for taking comparison pictures. Work great and I get a reply back by the next day if I ever email them with questions! Not sure why they don't exist on the forum anymore. Good luck! I wanna know how it turns out!

Why?