bbf2530
Edge Member-
Posts
1,223 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
7
About bbf2530
bbf2530's Achievements
Newbie (1/14)
-
Hi Limited. :D Things do happen, even to new vehicles. That is why we have a "New Car Bumper to Bumper Warranty". Make a service appointment and let them properly diagnose and repair any and all issues. I am not trying to stop you from soliciting the opinions and experiences of others. However, in the end it really doesnt matter whether anyone else had the same issues as you or not. You are having them and that is all that matters. And the way to have those issues properly corrected is to let Ford and the Dealers Service Department do their job. And the sooner the better. Whatever you decide to do good luck. :beerchug:
-
Hi Joseph. :D The full answer is in the New Car Warranty Guide which Ford supplies with every new car purchase. The shorter answer is that it can lead to denied Warranty claims on any problems or Warranty issue which Ford or the Dealer feels it may have contributed to. Auto manufactures only Warranty their vehicles exactly as it rolled of the assembly line. Any aftermarket modification can/will lead to Warranty problems. So if you have made engine modifications and later experience any engine related issue and Ford/the Dealership realize the vehicle was modified, you should be ready to eat the bill. Does not always happen, but be aware it may. Again, this is addressed in our New Car Warranty Guide, for those who need more information. Also, keep in mind that a "denied Warranty claim" is different than "void any dealership warranty". It is rare that an auto Warranty is "voided", since that means absolutely nothing will ever be covered under Warranty on a particular vehicle ever again. That usually only happens on vehicles with Salvage titles, vehicles declared a total loss due to flood/accident etc., vehicles caught being used for racing an so on. But "denied" Warranty claims due to aftermarket modifications can and do occur more often than many would think. And just anticipating a common misconception - No, the Magnuson-Moss Act does not offer much protection in these cases. It is written to offer protection to consumers for other purchase and Warranty related issues, not aftermarket modifications which can be even remotely related to a Warranty issue or problem.. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:
-
Hi colinero. :D Just wondering, did you check them during the day or at night? In most vehicles, they are tied into the ambient light sensor and will not illuminate during the day. If that is not the issue, then if the vehicle is still under Warranty (3 years/36,000 miles), bring it in for proper diagnosis and service. Other than checking bulbs and fuses, tracing an electrical issue over the Internet is fruitless. Keep us updated and good luck. :beerchug:
-
Headlight adjustment
bbf2530 replied to fishx65's topic in Glass, Lenses, Lighting, Mirrors, Sunroof (BAMR), Wipers
Hi fish. :D Just as an FYI, so you know what you are in for - To remove the headlight housings, you must first remove the front bumper cover/fascia. EDIT - Just realized I was answering a question in the Edge forums (thought I was answering in the Fusion forums), so while this information is accurate for the Fusion, I am not 100% sure it is accurate for the Edge. If someone supplied information otherwise, i will edit out the incorrect information. Thanks and good luck. :beerchug: -
Hi pdilow. :D Want to make it clear upfron that I am not trying to be a wise guy with this answer. So that being said - You have a 2011 vehicle with a 3 year/36,000 mile New car Bumper to Bumper Warrranty. So assuming your mileage is below 36,000 miles, the way you would properly fix it would be to make a service appointment at your Ford Dealership, take it in, demonstrate the issue to the Service Writer and let them properly diagnose and repair it. Since it seems to be easy for you to replicate your issue, do not just describe what is happening. Showing them exactly what occurs helps avoid the dreaded "Could not replicate customers concern", diagnosis. Keep us updated and good luck. :beerchug:
-
Hi all. :D As a general rule of thumb, snow performance with FWD and AWD vehicles is primarily dictated by the snow handling/performance characteristics of the tires (and driver skill), not the vehicle. SInce all FWD and most AWD vehicles are decidedly nose heavy, they will all handle relatively the same in snow, if the proper tires are used. In other words, it is not the vehicles fault, it is either the tires, the driver or both. In addition, the same tires should be used on all four corners, so if using snow tires, always install four. Never install only two, whether on the drive wheels or not. And yes, of course the AWD version of a particular vehicle will handle better than a FWD version, in the snow with the exact same tires (i.e. tire model, tread depth, age etc.). But when comparing various FWD to FWD vehicles, AWD to AWD, tires are the primary deciding factor by a longshot. Concerning winter handling of the factory Sport wheel/tire combination (I believe Pirelli Scorpions?) - If you need true snow driving capability, plan on purchasing a wheel/tire combination more appropriate for snow usage. Generally speaking, wIde, low profile tires do not drive well in snow. Hope this information helps and good luck. :beerchug:
-
Hi Jodi. :D Yes, make a return appointment with the Service Department and inform them that it did not "fix itself". If they do not correct the issue this time, either file a report with Ford Customer Relations (number is in both the Owners Manual and Warranty Guide) or try another Dealership. Keep us updated and good luck. :beerchug:
-
Hi full_. :D Yes, there are various 17" choices which would be usable on your Edge For example: you could one size wider, to a 245/60-17 (a slightly smaller diameter than stock), or a 245/65-17 (a slightly larger diameter than stock) etc.. Also, in addition to the size concerns, be sure you purchase tires with an equivalent or slightly higher load rating than the stock/original tires. However, you should really speak to a competent tire shop in your area and see what is truly available. Or if you are ordering over the Internet etc., speak directly to a representative for the best advice and recommendations, since they will know what they do and do not offer. Let us know how you make out and good luck. :beerchug:
-
Hi alittleedgy and welcome. :D Blind Internet diagnosis? I would agree with wlepse...loose heat shield. However any decent mechanic could tell you in 5 minutes whether it is a loose heat shield, an engine issue or a catalytic converter problem. Keep us updated and good luck. :beerchug:
-
Hi Mike. :D There are many existing threads concerning this subject. You can install aftermarket lowering springs. However, if you do install aftermarket lowering springs and later have any issues with your suspension (or possibly even certain drivetrain components), there is a good chance that your Warranty claim will be denied. And keep in mind that a "denied Warranty claim" is much different than "voiding the Warranty". Hope this information helps and good luck. :beerchug:
-
Hi Tobias. :D To put your mind at ease, I would recommend calling several of your other area Ford/Lincoln Dealers for price quotes. That will give you the best idea as to what the going rate is in your area. Let us know how you make out and good luck. :beerchug:
-
Ford PremiumCare ESP and Premium Maintenance Plans
bbf2530 replied to wlepse's topic in Recalls, TSBs & Warranty
Hi wlepse. :D In addition to Flood Ford, I would also recommend you call The Harold Ziegler Automotive Group for pricing. See this existing thread for more information, especially my post (reply #3) - LINK - Ford ESP Plan Good luck. :beerchug: -
Hi SHUMAX. :D I would start by asking a car-savvy friend to take a ride with you. While you re-create the noise by driving over bumps, potholes, into driveways etc., let him sit in the front and back seat and try to isolate exactly where the sound is coming from. If you can isolate the sound to a particular area, then check all trim, fasteners, wiring harnesses and whatever else is in the problem area for integrity and sound isolation. And just a heads-up: I would not try to remove any trim in the cold weather (unless you have a heated garage) as it will be stiff and prone to breakage. Let us know how you make out and good luck. :beerchug:
-
Hi Coyote. :D That picture is simply a Photoshop, supplied by frozennuts, of a Raptor grille on an Edge. No one we know of has actually performed that modification. So how much work would it be for someone to do it for real? It would be a custom job. Someone would need to purchase the grille, cut it to fit properly, fabricate mounting hardware etc. etc.. It could certainly be done by someone with the fabricating skills, but generally speaking, if they think it is worth the time and money, most people would probably be better off paying a shop to do it. Good luck. :beerchug:
-
Factory paint sealants/protectants on 2011+ vehicles
bbf2530 replied to JOYRIDER's topic in 2011 Edge & MKX
Hi Jason. :D You will get many opinions, here is one: If he is charging you no more for the "paint sealant" than he would for a good wax "detailing" then go ahead. But if he is charging you extra for this "treatment", then your wallet is getting the "treatment, not your car. No paint sealant is going to be a no-maintenance/permanent treatment. In reality, in many case it will last no longer or not much longer than a good quality waxing. As far as "...the factory only puts on a clear coat over your paint" statement, well what else is he expecting them to to put on it (rhetorical question)? The "clear coat" he is referring to is paint. For all intents and purposes, clearcoat paint is the same formulation paint as the color coat of our cars, just with no color pigment. It is harder and will last longer than any paint sealant, wax, polymer etc.. Yes, regular applications of a paint sealant, wax or polymer treatment etc. is necessary for the full paint protection, but all of them must be regularly reapplied since they all simply wear off. So paying more for a "paint sealant" only helps empty your wallet. So again, if he is not charging extra for his "paint sealant" than his normal wax or polymer detailing, go ahead, But if he is charging more, you are wasting money. Heck, on the other hand you can purchase a good quality paint sealant at your local auto store and do it yourself for a fraction of the cost, if you wish. Additionally, you can browse websites such as Meguiars.com and Mothers.com for professional advice on this and many other car-care subjects. Whatever you decide to do, good luck :beerchug: