autom8r

I think the ECM is retaining the code. How many miles have you put on it since you've made the repairs? You may need to drive 50 miles or so before the code will clear itself. This may be a dumb question, but is there an exhaust leak? What is the condition of the upstream O2 sensor? I know they're expensive to replace, but I replace all four to make sure their readings "drift" as a set.

That "vent" is a tattletale for the water pump gasket. Oil but more likely coolant is seeping from there. It should drip but not blast out. If the entire bottom of the engine is covered in oil, then something else is happening. Loose or clogged PCV or improperly seated oil dip stick are most likely culprits. If the crankcase pressure is not relieved, the oil laden vapor in the crankcase will seek an alternate path to atmosphere. Is the oil "soupy" or "foamy" on the dipstick, do you notice anything strange color or odor from the exhaust? It may even be a loose transmission dip stick! Take your car to another mechanic, have the engine cleaned up, then look for the source of the leaks. +1 with Waldo. Porosity after 112k is a stretch. It may be internal corrosion, but that's a stretch too. If the leak is from the tattletale, my money's on the water pump, Hopefully they didn't do something stupid like artificially (over) pressurizing the crankcase or cooling system to look for the source of the leak. Good luck!

The electronics in these cars are so sensitive to voltage irregularities. Sometimes a minor sag or surge in voltage can make things go haywire. Perhaps it's time to have the battery and charging system checked? I would also examine the connector on the back of the switch and make sure it's snug too. As for my two cents on the hazard switch, I use it when I'm coming up fast (while braking) on a column of stopped or slowed traffic. I learned this technique from my driving instructor in Holland back in the '80s, where it's common practice (in Holland) to alert drivers behind you of abrupt changes in speed/traffic pattern. Seems to work here for me as well. Some folks are really poor judges of their speed in relation to others. The hazard lights help them to notice a sudden change in driving/traffic conditions. After they match speed behind me, I switch them off. The placement and size of the hazard switch seems to lend itself to this use also. I remember that it used to be a little knob you pulled out of the steering column on cars in the '70s, a button you pushed in on top of the steering column in the '80s, and in the '90s the button became larger and placed in the center console where even a passenger could activate it, etc. The challenge these days is to compete for driver attention on the roads. Driving while distracted by your phone, texting, touch screens (big mistake), GPS, etc. not even considering the folks that purposefully defeat the safeties that prevent you from watching movies on your display requires too much attention from drivers. Too much trust is put in the driver coming up fast in your rear view mirror, and you can't see his brake lights to know if he sees you. If I come up behind you with my hazards on, you already know that I've noticed your abrupt change in speed and compensating for it. Let's hope the driver behind us is compensating too. My apologies for kidnapping this post!

My money's on the PTU. The seal replacement was likely on the PTU and the PTU also contains it's own fluid, which must be replaced or topped off when the seal is replaced. It may also be the center bearings or their supports. Let us know how it goes.

From my experience, the grease that usually comes with the pads is anti-squeal. When dry it sets up "rubbery" to prevent pad occillation on the heavier parts of a brake caliper. The round slide pin grease is not the same. That grease should remain tacky, only a thin coat is required. If carefully removed and kept clean, it should not require any grease at all. Depending on where you live, corrosion may attack the surface of the pins, if the surface is pitted, they should be replaced (and greased). The grease also extends the life of the pins by preventing water from coming into contact with the surface of the pin to create a corrosion cell. The rear brake also contains a drum parking brake inside the rotor. Improperly adjusted, that brake will drag also. As a rule, I always replace my pads and rotors as a set. I've only done one set (front and back pairs) in 130,000 miles. At the time I changed them out, my outer left rear pad was metal on metal, that was an awful sound. The brakes don't wear evenly and at the end of the pad life, it seems to go quicker. Ford doesn't have a brake pad wear sensor like BMW! Since I live in Cali where we have 90F Thanksgivings, my slide pins were not corroded. Your weather and road conditions may be different. I'd look at that parking brake and see if that's the culprit. Maybe it started right after you used the parking brake when you washed your car? Good luck.

X2 on the sticking slide pin. The pins need a special high temp Ford grease. Without the grease the caliper will not slide away from the rotor after the brakes are released and the pad will rub on the rotor and make that rubbing, grinding noise. Do you use the parking brake? Is that properly adjusted?

Baffled. I have 45k on my springs and there is no front end noise. My suspension is still tight even with 140k miles. No abnormal tire wear, creaking, groaning, nothing. Must be these silky smooth streets I'm driving on.

Roadkill, It may be a rounding error. What is the temperature at 14.5 C? 14 or 15? one system may round up, the other may round down. I'm sure polling intervals and scan rate may also drive the display and maybe even rolling averaging or dampening to smooth out the noise. The system probably sends an 8 or 10 bit value over the span of the sensor and its up to the device to extrapolate a value. Since all these systems are made by different companies you may never get a solution. Rest assured though, it's function is to drive you crazy. Good luck!

Brian, It may be the driver's side blend door actuator. More here. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/11725-dual-climate-control-repair/ The heater core is also known to clog up due to the failure of a coating that is applied to the interior surface of the tubing. Both driver and passenger sides will usually be without heat if this were the case. I would start by testing the blend door first. Good luck.

paradiddle1: From the look of things, you may be able to modify the wiring to suit the towing package. The wire colors seem consistent between the two, the only concern seems to be the fan control variable. On the tow package the fans stage and the speed modulates. I'm not certain what the the fans do on the non-tow configuration. Good luck! Ford Edge Cooling Fan Wiring.pdf

Needed new tires because the ol' Gooyear Eagles were getting so noisy. Everyone knew I was in my car when I made phone calls. Now the cabin is quiet and everyone thinks I'm in my office! I have a softspot for BBS wheels from my BMW days. And yes, these are knockoffs. I'm not tracking the Edge!

I'll turn 138k miles this weekend. Satisfied. Major bang for buck.

Brett, Congratulations. Sorry for the late response, but have them pull the OASIS report on the vehicle. It is Ford's repair work history of the car. Ford has a tow package they offered on these cars that came with a transmission cooler, or maybe a larger transmission cooler. Maybe it's possible to retrofit the tow package cooler on to a non-tow package transmission, it may be worth it if you're planning to tow at weight limit or frequently. Have fun in your new car!

If you have the time and the tools, swap your O2 sensors and reset your PCM. Drive for 10 miles or so and scan the PCM again. If the DTC moves to the other bank, it is most likely the O2 sensor. If the DTC stores the same code, then begin looking for a vacuum leak. The fuel system may come into play, dirty fuel filter, injectors, etc. But I'd find it unlikely that the PCM would set a code for only one bank and not both, and that all 3 injectors on a bank would simultaneously malfunction causing a lean condition. Same goes for the air side, the MAF measures all the air flow going to the engine and not just to one bank. Have you changed he spark plugs recently, or a fuel injector service performed? The spark plugs won't have a direct effect, but you need to remove the upper manifold to get to the plugs at the fire wall, if the manifold was not set back properly, you may have a vacuum leak. I don't endorse the fuel injector cleaning services either. But it wouldn't surprise me if the fuel system was damaged after performing one. My money's on the vacuum leak. Here's another link that explains it. http://www.justanswer.com/ford/0uc68-dtc-p0174-system-lean-bank-no-2-mean.html Good luck! Let us know how it goes.

Tina: +1 for omar. Here's a link to a prior post with the same symptoms. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/14654-overheating-neither-fan-running/ Good luck.

Poke71, I bought HIDs for my high beams, didnt like them because of the HID 'lag' coming to temperature and the pattern they cast, it just wasn't right. So I installed the Sylvania's instead and they work well. Color is not HID but I'm not driving around with my high beams on all the time. The HID ballasts should be plug and play, unless an HID harness was installed. For the higher wattage ballasts, this is necessary and surgical, the harness will need to be removed or you'll find that you may cook the new bulbs. There is no reason to flash the PCM, and the smart junction box is probably intact as well. Check the sockets with a VOM as you suggest. Make sure the switch is in the ON and not AUTOMATIC position if your car is so equipped. Check your fuses too and make sure they didn't blow when the ballasts came out. Examine the wiring carefully, the OEM socket is fed by 12 or 14 ga. wire ending with a socket, not plugged into another socket and then into the lamp as an HID may be. Sometimes the HID 'spade' that plugs into the socket will distort the clip inside the socket, weakening the spring tension against the new spade on the bulb. You may need to dig into the socket and spread out the clip to improve the tension on the spade of the new lamp for it to carry the current to the OEM lamp. Good luck. Let us know how you solved it!

visciglia: I would drive it over to an autozone and have them scan your PCM. If the CEL is on, then the PCM has stored some [or many] DTCs. Some of these codes will pile up on each other. The idea is to eliminate the easier DTC codes first before fixing the more expensive ones. Replacing the TSS is more expensive than replacing the wiring harness that serves the transmission. If a scan and other DTCs pointed to other problems in the transmission, they should've replaced with the harness first before the TSS. Personally, I like to know what I'm up against before I go to a dealer. A small investment in an OBD reader can save you alot of time and headache. They're generally inexpensive, easy to use, and will work on anyone's car regardless of make [one of the smarter things the government has done for the taxpayer] so long as it uses a computer to control the engine . Just my 2 cents, I'm a skeptic that way. Good luck

Toyz, If a cylinder is misfiring, it will likely show up on an OBD code scan. To be sure, move the suspect faulty coil to another cylinder and scan again to see if the PCM clears the fault on the original cylinder and moves it to the later cylinder. If the code stays on that cylinder, then you have a bad PCM. Disconnecting the COP and measuring its resistance is also a good test of its integrity. Compare the resistance of the faulty coil with the others. If all the coil resistance values fall within the same range, I'd take a closer look at the PCM. Are you still on the original plugs or have they been changed already? Gap distance increases over time and will gradually affect the amount of energy the PCM will need to send to the COP to "cross the gap" with a spark. Too much gap can cause a misfire, it can ruin the PCM too. And then, it may be a gremlin in your transmission that is causing that bucking sensation you are feeling. Search this forum for issues about the transmission. Your issue may also be caused by a weak battery. All these electronics require a very stable and reliable stream of electricity, your alternator produces this energy, but the battery acts as a cushion to prevent irregular fluctuations in voltage. Have your battery tested to make sure it can properly hold a charge. Irregular transmission shifts and poor driving economy can be blamed on voltages fluctuations (usually dips) which may occur with a malfunctioning battery. After all of that, I'm sure that there are OEM makers of COP units for this engine. www.weaponxperformance.com may have a kit for our engines, but it wouldn't be the first place I'd start. Good luck!

kstable6: My two cents. From what you describe, this problem points to a faulty CHT sensor or thermostat . The fans seem like they're working. I'm not sure why the other fan is not running. Please test it again with the A/C on. A protective circuit in the PCM will prevent the compressor clutch from locking up to provide air conditioning of the engine is running too hot. This should not have any bearing on the other fan though. Some things to check: CEL on or off? The CHT sensor may be faulty "throwing a code". Do you have access to a diagnostic code reader? The more advanced ones can tell you the coolant temperature. "Feel" the radiator hoses, are they warm? As warm as the indicator seems to indicate? Is the coolant level at low level mark when the engine is cold, and at the high level mark when it's warm? I'm assuming that aren't any coolant leaks. Pull the dipstick and make sure the oil is translucent or black and not frothy or milky looking. Finally, This is a test to see whether the thermostat is opening or not. With a cool engine, start the engine. While the engine is warming up, place your bare hand around the upper radiator hose. As the engine comes to temperature, you will feel the hose suddenly get warmer. Indicating that the thermostat is ok. You should be able to "feel" the coolant flowing through the hose if you gently squeeze it. There are fans back there so watch your fingers. If the hose stays relatively cool after the engine has warmed up, then the thermostat is stuck closed and need to be replaced. This condition will eventually cause the engine to overheat. If the hose gradually increases in temperature at the same rate the engine is warming up, the thermostat is stuck open and needs to be replaced. If you find it is the CHT sensor, replace your plugs while you're there. Good luck!

The wire loom is a great idea.

kstable6: Open the hood and make sure your cooling fans are running behind your radiator, you can't help but hear them. If you find that the fans are not operating, search this forum for help to replace the fans. The topic is well documented. Be careful that you don't overheat the engine, if you need to move it, flatbed it, it's not worth the risk to drive. Good luck.

Anakin, My 2 cents, FWIW. Was the vibration present before or after the tires were rotated? Or both? Are all four tires are the same size and relatively the same age and manufactured by the same company? What is the depth of the tire tread? Is it even all around? Do any of the tire surfaces show any defects, like cupping or abnormal shoulder wear? It is important to know where this tire was originally positioned on the car. The tire that is relocated to this position will eventually wear in the same manner. Cupping indicates a suspension component defect, the condition may present itself as vibration (noise too). Abnormal or accelerated shoulder wear (scrubbing) indicates an alignment issue (toe, camber, or caster). This may also present itself as vibration. Is the alignment within specification? If the roads where you live are rough or bumpy the suspension will move out of tolerance earlier than a location where the roads are smooth and flat. Most 0 to 40 mph roads have different surfaces than the 40 mph and above roads too. 40+ mph roads tend to be smoother, the tires 'scrub' easier on the smoother surface and the vibration will not be as pronounced. I would start with the lug nuts first. Check the torque and make sure they're not loose (or missing). If they are, jack up the car and reseat the wheel(s). If I found that the lug nuts were loose or I was missing one, or some, I'd be pretty upset especially after coming home from the tire shop! Good luck!

I take mine to a DIY car wash. I'm careful not to blast the PCM and I limit the water blast on the rest of the connectors. I'm surprised that Ford does not jacket their connections like other manufacturers. I would do a little at a time if this is the first time. Clean it partially once, let dry completely, clean partially again, let dry completely, cleaning a little more each time. The transmission has a significant wire loom and connector as well, look out for this one too. Done it a half a dozen times without issue. But there may come a time.....

tathanas: Sorry for the delayed response. I'm attaching an excerpt from the service manual for your use. There is a HVAC control module [i call it an AC module, but I live in SoCal. You'll call it a heater module.] that controls all aspects of the AC and Heat system. The control module has outputs to drive the actuators and it takes inputs from the actuators [position]. I've also attached a wiring diagram for the HVAC system. There are two different configurations. I assume you have the dual zone configuration. I would test the actuator by connecting it to the left connector first, as you did, and observe the operation and then I would connect the same actuator to the right connector and observe its operation, noting the difference in operation, if any. The air inlet door, LH and RH actuators all have the same part number, so they are interchangeable. The defrost panel/floor door actuator has a different part number. Of course it could be the HVAC control module too. The procedure above should prove whether it is the module or the actuators failing. The module seems easy to replace too. The output module will inject a momentary pulse to the actuator to drive it open. To close it, it will reverse the polarity of the signal and send a momentary pulse. Several pulses or a long protracted connection at the same polarity will drive the actuator to either end of its travel. If the module is unable to produce these pulses or reverse polarity, a problem ensues. Try this yourself on your workbench by attaching a 9v battery to the motor terminals on the actuator and then reversing the polarity. If service work was performed on the connector [highly unlikely, but you never know], it is important the wiring be carefully reassembled so that the polarity is correct. These excerpts are for the first generation Edge. Probably not a dramatic change behind the dashboard for the second generation. Suit the information to your needs. Good Luck! Ford Edge HVAC assembly.pdf Ford Edge HVAC wiring.pdf

tathanas: The part number for the left and right actuator is the same. Take it off the right side and install it on the left side and see if it works. If it does, order a new actuator. If it doesn't, it could be your AC module. Not sure what year Edge you have, but on the first generation version, the actuators are easy to access. Let us know how it goes.