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If you have an oscilloscope lying around you can measure the signal coming from the PCM. It is a Pulse Wave Modulation (PWM) signal. You'll find that the signal is approximately 5vdc (peak) and with the oscilloscope you'll see that the cycle 0-5vdc pulses over time, increased pulse duration (width) results in faster fan speed, shorter pulse duration slower fan speed, etc. The pulse duration is interpreted by the fan control module. The tow packages module has a varying fan speed for each fan. Read the output from the fan control module connector. The signal is on the white wire with the blue stripe. +12vdc is the violet/gray and black is ground. Be careful that you don't inject signal into the PCM. There is no thermostat that controls fan operation. There is a temperature sensor at the top of the engine under the intake manifold. This device is an RTD (resistance temperature detector) and is an easy to check with a VOM. At room temperature it's about 35k ohms and at 212F it's about 2k ohms. The sensor when it goes bad causes the PCM to enter a protective mode and spool the fans up to keep the motor cool. It will also throw a DTC, most likely P0118. Make sure that the sensor is disconnected from the PCM before you read its resistance otherwise you may be reading through the PCM instead of the sensor. I am in agreement with the others on the fans. We have seen the issue here may times. You may find that buying the individual components of the fan assembly may cost more than buying the kit, fans and fan module included. There are two flavors of this fan replacement kit so make sure to get the right one. I'm not certain why your fans won't spool up on the direct 12v to the fans. I'd measure the resistance of the motors with a VOM to determine if the windings have opened or gone to ground. If you find that the motors are damaged, don't hook a new fan control module to them, the motors will fry the FCM. Best to replace it as a kit. Others on the board have had great success with Motorcraft OEM. I purchased and installed a DORMAN brand replacement for my LIMITED with tow package 70k miles ago. No issues. If you could recondition blown fan modules, you'd be wealthy. Good Luck

Just kidding.... They've been great so far. Cost is the same as stock. Build is the same too. Old COPs had 175,000 miles on them. Old plugs had 75,000 miles. While I was there I changed both. I think I'll go to 50k on my next set of plugs. What I began to notice was stuttering or missing under load. With the new plugs that has vanished.

The ACCEL coils have been on about 3 months. Adds 40bhp and 6 miles per gallon.

I have the same "rumble" or droning at stops. At speed, second and third gears, I feather the throttle a little and it seems to get better. No discernible vibration after fourth gear. No codes.

Dino: You are now entering the twilight zone. Here is the section of the repair manual that describes the CAN BUS and the relationship between modules. You may require dealer intervention from this point onward. This ain't your Father's Oldsmobile. Ford Edge pp4499-4517 Modules.pdf Ford Edge pp4805-4812 Wiring.pdf

Dino: Sorry I was in the bay area yesterday. Didn't have my computer and files. I've attached some diagrams of the Edge's wire looms. The SJB is in the driver's side foot well. Many of the wires pass under the dead pedal, which I think is a horrible spot to run wires, maybe yours may have been frayed over time. Pull the carpet back and have a look. The SJB should you decide to replace it will need to be programmed at the dealer. It's part of the vehicles CAN bus and must code in with the other modules on the bus. My guess is that one of the connectors is loose or wire loom damaged. Good luck. Ford Edge pp4998-5005 Wiring.pdf Ford Edge cabin cabling.pdf

I've attached some wiring diagrams pertinent to your situation. Ford Edge Wiring Excerpts.pdf

Don't forget to check the box of relays (battery junction box) under the hood next to the battery. A loose cover could let water intrude. It's the green box next to the battery in this drawing.

Turbo_ There are indeed two different modules. My DORMAN has been operating without issue for the last 50k miles. It must be the dry heat in SoCal vs. Florida! I've attached wiring diagrams just so you have a reference for your use. Let me know if you need any other excerpts. Good luck. Sorry the response is so late. Ford Edge Cooling Fan Wiring.pdf

No LED retrofit on the head lamps/fog lamps. I just swapped the stock lamps to HIDs with ballasts on low beams and fog lamps. I also tried the high beams, but there is too much lag firing up the ballasts IMO. The fogs were projectors to begin with. They're configured with a horizontal slot that cuts off any light slightly above horizontal. Be warned not to instigate a debate about the sensibility of HIDs where halogens once existed...I've been told that I missed a lecture in physics on light reflection and refraction and how to adequately illuminate the road ahead of me.

Yabuddy Folks are right, its not a race car, but I think the the Edge looks a little better lowered. There are some minor improvements to handling. Tire wear is not adversely affected though it'll take a little while to "season" the springs, the ride is a little stiff the first 5000 miles or so. I've had my springs on for almost 90,000 miles. Zero issues. Don't forget to buy new camber bolts. Get a fatter rear sway bar if you can find it. If the streets are full of potholes where you live or where the car was driven, struts may be needed. My struts are original, 175,000 miles. I live in the OC where the roads are like heaven. Again, its a taste thing. Happy trails.

I am unfamiliar with "burnishing". I "bed in the pads" by stopping the car from 10 mph and then from 20 mph and then from 30 mph, 40 mph and finally from 50 miles per hour stopping in as short a distance as possible without locking the brakes. Others may do it differently. I borrowed this procedure from a BMW independent mechanic. Here is what TireRack says. Evidently, manufacturers of the brake pads differ on the procedure. http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=85

Shumax: It's normal. They put the primer on to keep the rotors from rusting in the warehouse, shiny is one thing, rusted and pitted is something else. Wipe the rotors with brake cleaner before you install them on the car. This will get rid of most of the primer. Bedding the pads will burn off the rest. Have fun.

Kevin: Here you go. Roof retracted underneath the cross bars with ample space beneath. Side rails are easy to install using simple hand tools. I advise the you get some plastic pry tools to pry up the existing covers. Be careful not to over-tighten the bolts on the side rail brackets, insert until level with the car body. Installation of the cross bars will stiffen up the entire assembly. Sorry that my glass is so dirty. They say it's going to rain in SoCal on Thursday so I'm not washing the car before then. Good luck

Or buy a badge-less grill. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Edge-07-10-Badgeless-Sports-Front-Grille-Black-/181880608332?fits=Make%3AFord%7CModel%3AEdge&hash=item2a58edd64c:g:OQgAAOxyLN9Sp2ZS&vxp=mtr

Fit1446: I'd inspect the brake lines and make sure they aren't twisted first. It's easy to get excited about your new rotor setup! Happened to me once, extended the travel of the pedal and reduced braking performance the same way. Good luck.

Thule 7503b. Fits without cutting. i use a basket to carry duffel bags and stuff. Vista roof slides open underneath. Gimp is right about the wind noise. When I don't need it, the basket is in the garage. With the basket on there is definitely an increase in cabin noise level. Good luck.

Next mod: Steeda rear sway bar! FWD only. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Steeda-2008-Ford-Edge-Rear-Swaybar-for-2-wheel-drive-only-PN-555-1059-/181993387623?hash=item2a5fa6b667:g:FxUAAOSwAF5UZnhr&vxp=mtr Have fun.

JSmith, The lean condition on both banks simultaneously suggests the vacuum leak. Any vacuum leak would admit more air into the engine causing a lean condition. If it were one bank or the other, I'd chase the oxygen sensors. It still may be the oxygen sensors, but both going bad at the same time would be rare. The oxygen sensors may throw a separate DTC code (BMW does) indicating that the sensor is reporting slowly or late, not sure Ford does this. Inspect the intake tubing between the throttle body, MAF, filter box and the resonators for loose connections/cracking. It may also be a leaking PCV hose. Of course it may be the coils too, but I'd look for a vacuum leak first. I liked your write up on the fuel pump. I was surprised that the pump could be replaced through the passenger compartment rather than dropping the tank. Good luck!

Before you do any work on the car, it's always a good idea to disconnect the battery. You should try moving the coils around. If the misfire moves around with the coil, then you probably have an issue with the coil. If the misfire stays on that cylinder, try a new PCM. Just an observation, I was never impressed with the wiring loom that Ford installs in their cars. While adequate, the loom seems unprotected to me, and prone to damage. I would make sure that the loom, pin-to-pin with the PCM is intact. Anything could've fallen on the loom and damaged the wiring. Additionally, those clips on the coils are really delicate. They also need to firmly snap in. I apologize if I insulted your experience. I write this for others who may be following in your footsteps. Good luck!

MoogLe: You need a Dorman 621-392, non-tow package radiator fan assembly. Matches Ford part CT4Z-8C607-B https://levittownfordsupercenter.com/levittown-parts/#parts http://www.dormanproducts.com/itemdetail.aspx?ProductID=48585&SEName=621-392 Happy Trails.

AMCLOVER Look up "Direct Acting Mechanical Bucket" no rocker arms here!

dgavette: It's not that tough. Use a wide plastic pry tool. Insert it on the inside (toward the center of the car) surface and pry, The bezel will pop out, beyond it the fog lamp holder snaps into a mount. Oddly, the mounts are not symmetrical, you'd think that they would be mirror images of each other, but they're not, you'll see what I mean. While my bezels were out, I plasti-dipped them, they match the color of the bumper now. I also replaced the bulb with HID. Have fun.

TJay: Check your oil. How many miles are on the engine? It sounds like a rod knock or piston slap (wrist pin). Good luck.

I am experiencing the same issue at the rubber around the stationary windows on the rear doors. No where else on the car. Definitely strange.