autom8r

Also http://www.willtheyfit.com/ is a good resource.

To add to what WWWPerfA_ZN0W was saying, the water pump is timing chain driven. Any lash in the chain will result in minute changes to timing and combustion efficiency. The ECU senses this and will store a DTC. The shaft rotating eccentrically due to a failed seal will increase this lash beyond acceptable tolerance. Seals do wear out over time. Low coolant levels, high operating temperatures, even a technician that over-pressurizes the water jacket during a radiator test can cause the pre-mature failure of the water pump. The pump is well designed, with an intermediate journal between two o-rings leading to a weep hole that serves as a tattle-tale. This is probably where you are losing your water. Soon the outer gasket will fail, resulting in oil contamination. The slot in the lower left of the picture (toward radiator when installed) is the journal where coolant will seep, indicating inner seal failure or shaft seal failure. A leak here, combined with the DTCs is a good indicator of impending water pump failure. The coolant is directed out on the left (radiator) side of the engine. Excerpt from the service manual is attached for your reference. How many miles are on your Edge and what kind of oil are you using? WEEP HOLE.pdf

This solution worked for mine. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/5259-sunroof-initialization/?hl=%2Binitialize+%2Broof

Nvguy44: Here are some pics of the operation. Part Number Get a set of ratcheting, open end wrenches Remove your air filter box, intake tube, battery and battery tray. The battery tray actually bolts into the isolator. Put your floor jack in this location and support the transmission. Do not jack up, just mild upward pressure here. Later you may need to move this up and down a little to reinstall the mounting brackets. Rubber completely sheared. Transmission mounting bracket and center bolt removed.. 3 of 4 frame side bolts removed. This is the bitch. The transmission cooler lines run right over the top of the bolt. The bolt is every bit as long as the opening is wide. Sockets and closed ratchet box wrenches won't work here. Conventional open end wrench will take forever. Note the location of the isolator bracket and the bracket at the top of the picture. The bracket at the top has two bolts going into the frame. Yeah, I thought of that too. Old vs new. New installed. Work the jack a little to get the transmission bracket to align. Obviously, you bolt the mount to the frame and then bolt the transmission mount to the transmission. Work the jack and install the center bolt. Vibration gone. Happy trails.

Ben: No deformation. I will say that you need to make sure that the jack pad is not acting on the rocker panel cover. The rocker panel cover is made of plastic and will not support the weight of the car. That being said, your slotted jack pad would need to be no more than about 2" in diameter to fit in the space that Ford gives you, and ideally square to maximize surface area. I use a HF aluminum floor jack (I have two). They work well for what I need them for. They have a flat rubber insert, but it's no slot. The pad stays off the plastic because the seam is taller.

Frequently, at the jack points and without the slotted puck. But I like the look of the slotted puck, though the slot needs to be sufficiently deep to accommodate the joint.

Mgavin, I bought the kit from Amazon or Ebay and a set of camber bolts. Genuine H&R. Took the kit to my independent tire shop business and he installed them while I watched. Immediately went to the [Hunter] alignment rack and set up the alignment. Regretfully I don't have pictures, 100k is a long way back in the rearview mirror. The springs make the car handle much better, though a little too stiff in the beginning. But after 100k miles they're seasoned just right (or I am). What's nice is that the car is at the right height, you kinda fall right into the driver's seat. Tom Champagne has some springs for sale. I'd think about those, it'll give you a head start on the seasoning. If you can find one, a Steeda anti-roll bar is also a nice addition. Steeda made these for the Gen1, and I think it fits on the Gen2 too. Happy trails

Mgavin, One has had his H&R Springs on his Edge for the last 100k miles. A new camber bolt set will be required. One has not had any problems with camber or alignment. In fact, the alignment has held really well. My Edge now has 190k on it. It may need new bushings soon, but the tires do not show any strange alignment or wear anomolies.

Nate: Sorry you're having such a tough time with your wife's car. My Edge has 196,000 miles on it, and so far so good. Here is what you're looking for. Pretty straight forward. If you need more room, I'd remove the oil filter elbow. I've attached the factory repair manual excerpts for your use. Happy Trails. Ford Edge Oil Pressure Sw.pdf