autom8r

Whew, glad you could answer his question. I've never thought to measure the output from the PCM. I wonder now if I needlessly replaced my fan assembly!

I believe that it's a pulse width modulated signal from the PCM. You may try to measure voltage and see what you get. Is the PCM throwing codes?

John: The fan control module needs an output signal from the PCM. if there is no output, the fans will not spool up. Here is a wiring diagram and a link for your use. http://www.justanswer.com/ford/76h2f-ford-edge-2008-ford-edge-awd-fans-not-running.html Good luck. Ford Edge Cooling Fan Wiring.pdf

6000K low beam, 8000K driving lights, I had 6000K high beams, but they cast a strange pattern, so I went back to the Sylvania SilverStar Ultras.

andbudzi: Front Suspension Information attached. I don't see anything as high as 258 ft-lb. Look out for the in-lb ones. Stuff will start breaking if you read it wrong. Have fun! Ford Edge Front Suspension.pdf

http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/maxlife_atf.pdf Sonia: I'm sure Valvoline stands behind their product. In the middle of the document I've attached Valvoline spells it out. I would contact Valvoline and find out what their policy is on claims. It is not unusual that the Ford fluid is blended by Valvoline, or Castrol or Mobil, etc. If your transmission fails, your cash flow may be an issue. You probably won't receive a settlement until the claim is sorted out, and you will be cash out of pocket to repair your car. Ford may ask if you used a different fluid. If you can prove that the Maxlife was installed [keep your receipt] and you get pushback from Ford, show them to the clause in the middle of the Valvioline literature attached. It still may be uphill battle. Of course, Ford will ask the same questions even if you grenaded a transmission with their fluid in it. Good luck PS. There is a rumor that Ford has stopped making Motorcraft MERCON V and that OEM MERCON V from Valvoline, Castrol, etc. is all that is available. A call to the parts counter at the local stealer can confirm the rumor and support your decision about the MaxLife.

Sonia: I use Mobil 1 exclusively, alternating every other change with the high mileage type that has an additive package that is helpful to the engine seals. Your transmission needs MERCON V fluid or a fluid that meets this specification. Valvoline says that their Maxlife DEX/MERC product meets this specification. ATF+4 is a completely different specification and may not be compatible with your 6F50 transmission. Valvoline Maxlife: http://www.valvoline.com/products/brands/maxlife/automatic-transmission-fluid/37 Put your VIN number in the window on this website and it will tell you which [Ford] fluids your car needs. http://www.fordparts.com/default.aspx Good Luck!

You're right. i noticed that the connector was a little loose and didn't grip that little tab. I'll keep an eye on it.

Kitulu: I bought a set on ebay. There are three books, volume 1 and 2 and the wiring diagrams. If you are patient, you can get the printed ones pretty inexpensively. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2008-Ford-Edge-Lincoln-MKX-Service-Shop-Manual-SET-W-ELECTRICAL-WIRING-DIAGRAMS-/350790691012?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item51acc128c4&vxp=mtr Good luck.

Last weekend I replaced my faulty fan assembly. The fan speed control module failed, leaving one of the fans operating at high speed all the time [an annoying tattletale, BTW]. A new module costs as much or more as the entire fan assembly, so I opted to replace the whole thing. The service manual instructs you to disconnect the upper radiator hose. That would've qualified this job as a messy PITA. A message to thirdgenlxi was quickly returned with a set of abbreviated instructions, which made the job much cleaner and easier. And so attached for your use is the 'simplified' fan assembly replacement procedure. The entire job took about 0:30 minutes. Scale of difficulty, 1 to 2, about the same as rotating your tires. A hearty thanks to thirdgenlxi for his advice. Ford Edge RADIATOR FAN REPLACEMENT.pdf

Jim5506! Best 15 minute mod I've made so far. My wife complained about the air blowing on her too. Thanks for the idea.

I would, why not? There is also the relay in the same location [151-17] on connector C474 that serves the power outlet. Look for the yellow wire with a red stripe, splice into that one. It is runs straight to fuse 66, 20A at the battery junction box in front. Install the inline fuse with the trailer connection circuit. Attached is a diagram for your use. Good Luck! Ford Edge Rear Power Outlet.pdf

Sounderella, Congratulations on your purchase. The Edge is a great car. Here's what you may need to know about your rotors. Rotors warp with heat, kinda like a frisbee that is left in the sun too long. That pulsation you feel is the brake rotor fighting against the caliper. Front rotors usually warp before the rear rotors do. Braking is 70% front, 30% rear {approximately}. Bear in mind that the thinner the rotor becomes, the more susceptible it becomes to heat deformation [warping]. The Edge is a heavy car and to stop it requires a great deal of energy, all of it converted to heat during braking and dissipated to the environment by the braking system, the rotors being the chief component of the heat dissipation system. Rotors have a minimum allowable thickness. The minimum thickness specification is sometimes stamped in the edge of the rotor for your convenience. So long as the rotor is greater than the minimum allowable thickness, it can be cut, and re-cut, and re-cut ad-nauseum. A dealer may choose to cut [turn] the rotors rather than replace them if the rotor still has enough meat on it. Ford recommends an "on vehicle" brake lathe. This is a labor/time saving device, though I prefer the bench lathe, somehow I can't get past the self-calibrating anti-wobble run-out feature of the on-vehicle lathe. I suppose it can compensate for a bent axle though. It may help the dealer make his decision because it is easier to leave the rotors on the car. With a bench lathe, the rotors need to come off, same labor to install a new one as a cut one. I've attached a section of the service manual for your use. It is for a first generation Edge, and may also apply to yours. It notes the minimum thickness requirements of the rotors. A caveat, all of the preceding comments are also correct, and may also be the solution to your dilemma. Good luck! Ford Edge Brakes Info.pdf

Glad that it was a simple problem. Hopefully, it's not the cats that are going bad.

resipsa: Here's the info you are looking for and a little more. Would've answered sooner but didn't see your post until just now. Good luck. Ford Edge Rear Brakes.pdf

It sounds like something may be loose in the engine compartment. You say it happens at certain speeds, but what about at a certain RPM? I would try parking on level ground, putting the car in neutral and very slowly revving up the engine to 3k or 4k RPM to see if you can reproduce the noise. Whatever is in your engine compartment has chosen a critical frequency to start resonating at. Open the hood and have a friend walk around it to see if you can pinpoint the noise, while maintaining the engine speed that seems to be causing the noise. It may be that the last time you went in for an oil change, the technician loosened something and forgot to tighten it back up. Good luck.

Your muffler guy is an artist. Great job.

Thanks Maus! I refinished my bezels and installed 8000k HID lamps and ballasts over the weekend. The bezels look factory. Thanks for the great advice.

Stevioliv: I converted the LB, HB and driving lights to [xenon] HID. 6000K on LB and HB, 8000K on the driving lights. Simple plug and play. http://www.hidmasters.com Good luck.

Maus: Please post 'em. I'm sure every first generation is interested. Thanks

Great idea. Can you get at the bulbs using this method? I want to swap the stock halogens for HIDs. Thanks for the great tip!

Kimi The Invision system is offered as a dealer installed package only; as such, they will only support dealers for their installations. Invision does not offer consumer support. That being said, make sure that you get the "black box" that both headrest DVD players attach to. Installation is simple. Remove your old headrests, install the new headrests. Feed the wire through the holes of the headrest support. Run wiring (2 cables) behind the seat back cover. Connect the cables to another cable, and connect that cable to the black box. The cables are color coded, so it's nearly impossible to make a mistake. The black box needs to be connected to power and it uses RF or the AUX to play over your car audio system. There are lots of cables and boxes for sale on ebay. Caveat Emptor. The link you posted is for something entirely different. I don't recognize it as an Invision product. Good luck.

Just turned 111k. Spark plug replacement at 101k. Radiator fan control module is acting up now. Radiator fan in high all the time. Replacing the module is easy, replacing the entire fan assembly will be an adventure. Everything else is operating at specification [or so it seems...]

H&R springs installed at 92k miles. Still on original shocks at 110k miles. No problems yet. Some break-in is required because the springs are really stiff out of the box. In my opinion, the suspension on the Edge is very stout and can take a lot of abuse. Buy new camber bolts, you'll feel better about it. Good luck!

Nowak1981 Here are instructions for removing and replacing the rear springs. Good luck. Ford Edge Rear Springs.pdf