Tacyon

Next on my list of needed maintenance/about time for change out are the brakes. On my 2011 I'd ordered a set of slotted and cross drilled rotors and new calipers. When they arrived, I used my die grinder with a abrasive pad on it to remove all the flashing from the casting process and other gross irregularities then obtained this G2 kit and painted them. I did this partly because the cast flashing was going to mess with my zen and no one offered ready power coated calipers for the Edge. This time around, I located a local shop that would power coat them for $25 ea if I prep'd them. However ... Power Stop now has these and this saves me some money and time. I'll just have to deal with my zen over the castings not being smooth. Full set front and rear with carbon fiber/ceramic pads and slotted/cross drilled rotors from Rockauto is a few drinks under 7 bills. 175/corner .. not bad. I'll update photos once that lil project is completed. Update: got some time (and cooperating weather) this weekend to install. I'd really like to go with big brakes. Larger rotors and 4/6 piston brakes .. but, meh .. It's not a X5 with a V8 HEY, reminds me, I was a bit surprised to find (or not find as the case was) no rear brake harmonic dampeners. The bolts didn't even have the threaded stud to attached it to had I had a pair (of harmonic dampeners) Was this not a thing on 2013 Limited AWD's ?

As for the "auto battery disconnect" feature, I can tell you that on my 2011 and 2013 Edge, I've left the dome and/or parking lights on before and in the morning, they're off and the battery is fully functional. I know I've left them on because as soon as I start the Edge, they all come on. Haven't tried with the headlights. Another "ignition wire" that is even more convenient is the power to the rear view mirror. My 9500ix and Garmin 2555 LTM are both wired into it.

I'm one of those angst purchasers. When I decide I want something, I research it for months, mull it around in my head. Worry about the cost and if I'll realize the value of it. So, finally I pulled the trigger on my 2nd Edge upgrade to aftermarket wheels and new tires. (4) Empire Verde in matte graphite silver + a needed new set of Pirelli Scorpion Verde plus. I know that there has been a lot of negative opinions of the stock Pirelli Scorpion's but these are the next model up and they've improved the compounding and tread pattern a few times hence the "Plus v3". I've been thru several sets on my first 2011 Edge Limited AWD and this is the 3rd set on my 2013 Edge Limited AWD. The wheels were the "angst" part of this purchase. I don't care for chrome and everyone does black. Didn't want 5 spokes, didn't want "turbine" bike spokes. These are everything in between all that and since beautiful is in the eye of the beholder, I love em! I still have the OEM rims that are in good shape if anyone is interested. If not, they're going to host my winter skins (Chicagoland winters) I left them skinless with the TPMS sensors still attached so pick out winter rubber (BFG Advantage T/A's ??) and I'm good to go.

Silly rabbits - tricks are for kids ... when will they learn. February 13, 2019 Dear Tacyon Get the new 2019 Ford Navigation System Map update for just $149.00* by May 31, 2019 and receive complimentary Shipping** Now, first note the usage of "*" which usually means conditions or strings. And "just" $149.00 and we'll also include "complimentary Shipping" [cough, cough] ummm Ford -> Garmin - Drive 51 LM 5" GPS with Lifetime Map Updates (2-4/year usually) for $130.00 And I would also add, any location can be looked up in less than 30 seconds vs an argument with MFS over not really wanting wherever it decided she wanted to direct you to. Hell - even for a few dollars more - Garmin - DriveSmart 61 LMT-S 6.95" GPS with Built-In Bluetooth - Lifetime Map and Traffic Updates @ $190.00 OR ... your smrt fone on google maps! Just sayin ... Ford.... what the market will bare.

yea - not a fan of this software either. There are a few other forums I've bumped across and I either don't join or drop off shortly there after. Question for whomever is controlling the strings behind the scenes, how do I disable or not have double spacing?? Specifically in my signature.

hmmm .. I figured if I let this post bake a few days, someone would come up with a bright idea (HA! See what I did there) So. let me ask this of someone who has Oasis access .. the two turn relays in the engine bay fuse panel, where does their N/O contacts go to? (FETs in the BCM?)

The front turn signals stopped working. Mirrors, rears, tap to turn, all work fine. Just zero voltage at the light socket when turn is engaged. Relays are kicking and I've got voltage on their outputs (measured on the bottom of the engine bay fuse panel. If I jumper to the wire loom for the turns and give it 12vdc, they light up when they're suppose to. I have the DayTime Bright lights control module for the gill lights/turn signals installed but they're NOT the cause of this. When I swapped out the control module, I tested the Edge while it was disconnected and still no voltage at the back of the turn plug. F13 & F14 (fuses on the cabin fuse panel) for turns L & R. They're good. Front marker/parking lights are working normally. From the diagram I think my next step is to look for voltage on the output connector of the BCM for the turn signals .. Does anyone know where the wires for the front turns go after they leave the relays in the engine bay fuse panel?

The idea I haven't executed on yet was the puddle lights from daytime bright lights because I know just how bright they are. One on each side of center about a foot out should cover it.

Thank you gentleman. Look slike there are three or four sources of power in the rear lift gate. None of which I want to use as they're associated with specific manually triggered functions. Looks like I'll be tapping into another loom point and running my own wire. Photos to follow.

Does anyone have a 2013 Edge limited's liftgate wiring diagram. Got an idea and I'm looking for what power is there that I can tap into. hint: puddle light.

Well .. I can tell you from the other way around. I just did a sound system buff with the iData Maestro RA which a keep the "head unit" (which is not really a head unit) but replace the anemic stock Sony amp and DSP. I used the iData Maestro HRN-AR-FO2 T-harness, iDatalink Maestro AR Universal Amplifier Replacement Interface, Kenwood Excelon XR600-6DSP Advanced Integration Amplifier. For those who don't know, what happens with this gear is that until last year (2017) There was no way to get the "control signals" from the stock system to tell a 3rd party amp what to do. You were stuck with the high 2 low level converted which did nothing for the neutering of the sound envelope that Ford/Sony did to protect they factory speakers and the children's ears. Since my ears are shot, I want to feel the music via SPL. What iData did was to work with Kenwood and iData takes the CANBUS computer signals that normally to the Sony amp in the back passenger side of the Edge (2013) and tell it what to sound like and how loud, and send to instead to the Kenwood AMP that was specifically designed to be a DSP that only works with the iData products. What you get is 6 channels of 100w sound to the factory location AND two channels of real honest to goodness low level outputs for say ... oh, 1200 watt sealed subwoofer box that you've been dying to install in your Edge. I'd already replaced the factory speaker .. and they can handle the 100w (300w peak) but I wanted the "window delamination" amp option. Oh yea ... this works. So, now a few weeks later and I'm still tweaking and tuning and discovering what is not working. Like, I have collision avoidance, when I'd trigger it (false alert) it would mute the phone or music to almost zero so I could hear the BONK-BONK, BONK-BONK, BONK-BONK. Now that mute no longer happens .. not sure if I like this or not. The screen press sound feed back is also gone. Same here, I was accustomed to that feedback. hmmmm. I've see the iData Maestro RR with Kenwoods and Pioneers and its basically the same thing in reverse. Only from your Pioneer's head unit, there will be a screen icon called ... car ?? and pressing it takes you into the car's functions like, HVAC, Seat controls etc. Looks similar .. but not 100% copy. If your research hasn't brought you to these guys .. check them out. I like their personalities and they do top notch work. And they're entertaining to watch. . You'll be interested in this video This is their main channel.

Yep .. got the same one today as well and came up here to post .... ya beat me. Same thoughts ... used a few times. Was very underwhelmed. Still, I don't like it when freebies are removed. I wonder why the official reason they made the decision. Cost, lack of use, both?

As WWWPerfA_ZN0W said .. stubby antenna. But be warned, I've noticed a drop in signal strength since I installed mine. If you have a station that was not rock solid clear before, it'll be staticy now. If it was sketchy before, it'll be unusable now. Satellite's antenna IIRC is in the dash just under the surface. So nothing to do with the shark fin up on top ahead of the moon roof. (if you have one)

Jhead85, along with the question of budget, you've got to ask yourself are you fine with a line level converter (speaker outputs -> DSP -> low level for an AMP) which won't solve the severe neutering of the audio that Ford/Sony does on its stock configuration. OR, if you want to opt for what is behind door two and go with a solution like iData Maestro + Kenwood XR600-6DSP which kills 3 birds with one albeit large stone. I have a 1200 watt ole skool Phoenix Gold Ti 600.2 amp connected to two, Diamond Audio D612D4 in a sealed box with no way to connect it to my Sony "Premium" sound system in my Edge. IMO Line level converters don't count. Until mid 2017 it was relegated to the corner of my garage. By opting for the Maestro/Kenwood configuration I not only bypass the anemic and heavily neutered Sony stock amp but also get 2 sets of real line outputs from the Kenwood's XR600. I just about have all my hardware in hand and will do a thread on my install here and my design reasons. The Maestro/Kenwood solution is going to be ~$1000.00 on the cheap IF you have all the install materials in hand and the install skillz. (cabling, fittings, etc) And this is without the consideration of a sub-woofer (not a german shepherd living on a submarine) and loosing the "center ch fill speakers" on the stock configuration.

yea... my thought was, for a non-race, daily driver that see the expressway 70% of its life, I just couldn't rationalize $1700 vs ~$400 for front brakes. In my mind I also question that radical of an upgrade to the front might bring on the need to upgrade the rear or adjust its bias at the very least. For me, maybe if they would come down to the $1000 or below range, I'd consider it.