candurin

From what I can see, you have just the screen in that auction. If for some reason it does include the APIM, it is a non-Nav version (based on the one screenshot that shows a screen without Navigation). Other bad news... the F-150 screen is a standard (non-recessed) screen that will not fit the Ford Edge without using modified brackets (another member had 3D printed their own custom brackets).

You purchased a SYNC 2/MFT setup, NOT a SYNC 3 system. Wanted to make sure you were aware of that. All SYNC 2/MFT systems have NAV "built in" it's just a matter of activating it with a license or a simple workaround.

Just to clarify, loud doesnt always qualify as better sounding. Seems like you have a great head start with l the responses so far. I simply replaced the stock, paper, speakers with infinity reference all around and have been very pleased with the sound for almost 6 years. I find it to be quite loud above 7-8 with the windows closed and 21-22 with everything open at highway speed (numbers based on what is displayed on the screen/sync 3).

Here are the service manual files for GPSM location and removing the Instrument Panel. IPC Removal_Edge_2011-2014.pdf GPSM_Edge_2011-2014.pdf

It is behind the instrument cluster, just below the top of the dashboard.

Does the SYNCMYRIDE website that you have an update available? 3.8 is the latest version available for end user download and installation. 3.10 was a dealer-only install option. You can find the 3.10 online with some ninja-like google skills, however, there was no tangible benefit (for most users) to go above 3.8.

I would strongly recommend this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F0GVBWY

With your SYNC 3 programming, does your IPC cluster (to the right of the steering column), still list BT, USB 1, etc. under your entertainment options? Ive been very happy with my SYNC 3 system. One thing to note, make sure if youre connected to CarPlay and any map application (Waze, maps, etc.) that your speedometer is displayed correctly as your phone will use the SYNC 3 GPS when connected to CarPlay. Ive noticed that mine is a bit off after installing sync 3. and here's my final APIM programming: 7D0-01-01 2A21 8002 012B 7D0-01-02 0283 0006 0A77 7D0-02-01 5753 0B04 C0D3 7D0-02-02 0240 8000 005D 7D0-02-03 0005 E1 7D0-03-01 004E 0002 002B 7D0-04-01 0100 0300 09E9 7D0-04-02 0001 DE 7D0-05-01 1BA3 1B9B 2B7C 7D0-05-02 C5A3 7D0-06-01 805E 7D0-07-01 0800 3300 001A 7D0-07-02 0000 186A 0062 7D0-07-03 0056 5686 0013 7D0-07-04 7052

Ive been in temps as cold as -15 with my HID and never had any issues at all. It comes down to quality of the ballasts, wiring, install method (I.e. direct wire harness), relays, etc. I have found that having an 800 CCA battery has helped tremendously. Never as much as a hiccup remote starting in the cold.

You can use an APIM from any vehicle (make certain it is from a US car f you are in the US). EU APIMs will work, but not for Navigation. The screens are the bigger issue. Make sure you get a version that fits in the edges recessed channel. Screens from an Edge, Flex, Explorer, Taurus, F-250, F-350 will all fit the edge. Some lincoln model screens fit as well. It doesnt matter where the APIM comes from, as it is a universal component that needs to be programmed to your vehicles specs.

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/22486-sync-3-installed-in-a-2012-limited/page-1

So, I have to ask... you want to replace an 11year old head unit with an 11 year old head unit? The maps will be woefully outdated as well. Why not go aftermarket and use a PAC adapter (I think thats what it is) to keep OEM steering wheel controls?

IKT = Integrated Keyhead Transmitter - That's the key with the integrated fob/buttons on top. If your key works (you can use it to open the door and start the car), try this to reprogram the buttons on the key: 1. Close all doors, then open drivers door and press the Unlock button on drivers door while it is open, insert key into ignition. 2. Turn ignition from OFF to RUN 8 times within 8 seconds, with the 8th time ending in RUN. Door locks will cycle to confirm programming mode. (if the door locks do not cycle, then it was done incorrectly. You must start over by removing key and beginning from step 1) (Off is the position where you can remove your key, RUN is the position just shy of starting your car.) 3. Within 10 seconds press any button on the first keyless remote to be programmed. Door locks will cycle to confirm programming. If you only have one remote then skip to step 5. 4. Within 10 seconds, press any button on the second keyless remote. Door locks will cycle again to confirm programming. Repeat step 4. for all other remotes. 5. Turn ignition to OFF. Locks will again cycle to indicate end of programming mode.

It is absolutely more pronounced from a dead stop. Really a popping noise once I start moving. Ill get around to it eventually.

Are you referring to your IKT fob isn't working or the numerical keyless entry pad on the door isn't working? Your post alludes to the fact your talking about the fob. If you just purchased the car, have the dealer take care of it. May just be a simpl reprogramming of the fob is in order. Does the key itself work?

The one way kit (100 series) use the remote start antenna that is connected to the TPMS in the rear drivers side quarter panel. The use the factory IKT fob and limited to line of sight. If you want to increase distance, hold the fob up to your chin. If you want longer range (1000), then youll need the separate fob and aerial antenna. Longest range? Would be the cellular based remote access kit. No shenanigans on fords behalf. Simply a limitation of the key fobs range vs the stepping up to the aerial antenna and separate fob. The longer range kits need the VSS as they are beyond line of sight capable kits. If yo want longer range, you need to select one of those options. The installation is really not that much more difficult, maybe an extra 30 minutes or so.

You cant really brick it. You just would have an undesired result. You can always change it. There are plenty of FORScan code spreadsheets around. If your hesitant at all, the $100 to have it pre-programmed isnt a terrible idea. Really you want your cars existing as built data and a 2017, similarly equipped Ford Edge, as built data. You would make a comparison of both, while referring to the FORScan spreadsheets. Its not hard once you give it a try.

Im reading this and keep thinking you are describing my old mans knees! Fixed the same way.

Is the belt deformed or twisted in any way? When you say 3 seconds, is that manually fully extended?

If that is the route you want to take, go with the sync3 upgrade.

I'll look more into this later, but: 720-01-01 xx2x xxxx xxxx AdvanceTrac disabled

Its also noticeable when I hit a bump, pothole etc. Ill have a look. Any tell-tale signs from a visual standpoint?

So as my car ages (only 66k!), its starting to develop a creaking sound (kinda like cracking knuckles) when I start to move the car or make a turn. Its definiely more pronounced when cold, but certainly does it from a dead stop. Seems like its coming from the wheel wells (front and back seem to make it). Perhaps some type of bushing needs to be replaced? I know you guys enjoy diagnosing issues solely from a vague description of a random noise.

Almost sounds like a DRL issue, where you are not getting the proper 12v when starting the car. Where do you live (I.e. Canada or California)?

No. Just get a good, heavy duty, wire harness.