candurin

9006 bulbs will fit just fine and give you more options to choose from. Those of us that converted to HID went with a 9006 kit.

The oem bulbs are Philips HIR2 (3rd gen bulbs), which are pretty good halogens. If Want to stay with halogen/xenons then you should consider sylvania silverstar ultras or ge nighthawk platinums (9006 size bulbs). For true light performance increase hid is the way to go. And you can get a ddm kit for not too much more than either ofne halogen/xenon ones I listed.

If I remember you need a #20 torx bit for the screw.

Typically california and canada have OEM DRL's activated.

Johnny, having had experience with both (feel free to review my previous posts), you'll see that TRS Morimoto is a well made kit with digital ballasts, relays and nice (BEEFY) harnesses and wires. I have used DDM in the past with zero issues, but it really depends on what wattage you decide on. My opinion is that if you are going for a 35W kit, then you can choose either. For 55W then I strongly recommend the TRS. You really can't go wrong with either. From a non-hardware standpoint, you absolutely CANNOT beat the reponse time and support from TRS. DDM has not so favorable support and longer response/resolution time. You'll be happy once you go HID!

Edgie, the entire assembly cannot be all LEDs. The bottom part will be hidden behind the bumper. You can only see the components with the LEDS. Dan, I'd be glad to be test them in the, uhm, south NJ market for you!

Hyper, which LEDs did you go with (Cree, sst, etc)? Any ideas of the lumens?

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="PrinzII" data-cid="89317" data-time="1355710369"><p> I am running a 35w 5000K kit I bought from a vendor on a Maxima forum I moderate. It's been pretty stable, even when I had the DRLs running. However, I am running Canbus ballasts.</p></blockquote> Just for the OP's clarification... Prinzll is using a canbus version because he has OEM DRLs (if I remember correctly). The relay version is fine otherwise. Unless I'm thinking of another poster with DRLs and I'm just blaming Prinzll

You will certainly find a number of users very happy with the DDM kit (I'll label it as "good enough") for an HID kit (I've used DDM for years). I had trouble with the 9006 DDM 55W kit with my edge (some others users did as well, but the issue was mainly surrounding the wire harness for the 55W, 35W users have reported back happy). I am using the TRS Morimoto kit and have never had so much as a hiccup since installing it: http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?cPath=32&products_id=242 and for more details here: http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?products_id=3182 I went with the 50W/5000K, 9006 Relay (not CANBUS) kit which has ZERO blue in it. Just a perfect (to my eyes) cool white color. I've posted some ballast pics and additional information in an old post. I'll try and dig it up.

I purchase a light stone color homelink and installed it in my visor. Took about 30 minutes to install.

I feel your pain Dan. My son makes me cycle through the colors over and over AND OVER again. I just make sure it lands on the blue/gray color every time. Wife wanted red for christmas, but it ultimately got vetoed, philibustered and outright denied.

:hysterical3: That has to be one of the top 3 things not to eat while driving. I'm thinking tacos and hoagies should join be up there.

I don't mind the scion guard. It actually looks like it belongs there. Maybe it looks better on tuxedo/black Edges?

For what it's worth, I have the ones you linked to in my dome/cargo area (that's my link) since day 1 and have had zero issues and didn't have to fudge with or make any adjustments. Mine fit just fine in all three slots. Not saying they're perfect for everyone, but I have not had any issues. Did you come up with alternatives?

It was actually both. I didnt feel the halogens were bright enough (we have lots of back roads out here in Jersey as well) and the whiter color is easier on the eyes (for me). The 4300k offers the most usable light (the bluer the color, the more output you lose) and the brights are SIGNIFICANTLY brighter than stock.

No doubt. I'm definitely sporting at least 9/10 "Dan mods". He has cost me more money than he knows

Dan's lights will put out 440 lumens each (luxeon rebel LED's). As one of the first adopters (well, Cellbine might have snuck his order in first) I have not been happier.

They can re-use the original one.

I should have read more into your post. I went from a halogen setup to hid, you already have hid (which I didn't realize). I think you can just swap bulbs as long as you get one with an AMP connection.

I have tried quite a few different bulbs. My preference is to go with 4300/4500K if you are going with 35W bulbs and 5000K if you are going with 50/55W. Either will give you a perfect cool white light with zero blue (and not a warm white color). The 55W is brighter (not tremendously) and washes out the blue hint of the 5000K color, which is why I say the 35W/4300K and 55W/5000K give the same color.

I had ddm sets last me 7 years... The original builds (apexcone) were very high quality. Hopefully the recent (more plastic) versions will hold up.

Are you sure the bulbs are seated correctly? All 3 tabs should be locked in. If they are, no horizontal adjustment should be necessary.

Ok, I have to ask. What about if you need to remove the valve stem cap or lug nuts? I'd also really like to do this, but I scuffed a rim. Any suggestions for covering up chrome clad damage (I.e. maybe apply a thicker coating over the rashed area to fill it in)?

I am using the trs kit and had to Dremel my bulb tabs a bit thinner. Just try and match them up by "clock" positions.

Hmm... Didn't work for me. But, wasn't trying to be an ass. Good link to a good video. Sorry if it came off that way.