candurin

Did you install the resistors? I had the EXACT same issue you describe until I installed them (takes less than 1 minute to install, each side).

Why did i switch? I had used ddm from many years (even back when they were apexcone). When I used the 55w ddm kit in my edge originally, the bulbs didn't match exactly, the wire harness melted any my passenger ballast wouldn't fire right. DDM really didn't help me at all. As a loyal customer (purchased over 7 different ddm kits over the years), I was pissed. Wanted a higher quality kit and I have been THRILLED with the trs/morimoto kit. I had an install question on the trs kit, called the number and the owner (Scott) picked up on the 3rd ring and walked me through it. DDM you had to fill out an online ticket and hope they call you back (or talk to the receptionist who was kind enough to put you through to a general voicemail). Dingo, I had to Dremel (thin down) the tabs on the 9006 bulbs in my trs kit on order to twist and lock them in place. I probably could have done without if I struggled a bit more and could get a better grip. Only shaved/thinned about 1/32" (maybe even a bit less).

That's where I mounted mine. I also had to dremel down the tabs in order to facilitate twisting them in (too thick). I didn't have to when I originally had the DDM kit, but the morimotos were a tad bit thicker.

That just happened to me. Got to my dealer (pre-scheduled 7500 mile service appointment). When I checked in they told me I had an applicable tsb. I told them I already installed the 3.5.1 update. They re-installed anyway and kept me for an hour and a half. Oh well. They still have good service and free (decent too!) coffee.

My vled switchbacks have had zero issues.

Don't back up into someone's roof! No such issues here... I've had 3.5.1 ever since the tsb was issued (self install).

You can format the drive you used for 3.2 and load up 3.5 on it. Everything gets overwritten anyway.

You'll find a lot of users on here using the DDM kits (which for argument sake, we can consider the mainstream HID kit of choice due to price and options). Some of us went with a higher quality kit. If you have Myths to debunk and recommendations to make, then please do so. We are all ears!

http://www.target.com/p/threshold-300-thread-count-flat-sheet/-/A-13973173?ref=tgt_adv_XSG10001&AFID=Google_PLA_df&LNM=%7C14196438&CPNG=Bedding&kpid=14196438&LID=PA&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=14196438 You can tuck it in at the sides for that custom look! Going to be tough, weathertech makes larger liners for behind 2nd row for 3 row vehicles. Not too much available for behind 1st row in 2 row vehicles.

Seems like your US Robotics 14.4k modem is crapping out on you! Shouldn't take that long, my download took just a few minutes. Maybe you got on a slow port or everyone in your neighborhood is online right NOW. You can always cancel and try again. Maybe this entire forum is d/l the same update as I type this.

Hmmm. I just checked and my TRS/Morimoto kit came with grommets for the caps. Give them a calm and I'm sure they'll get you squared away.

Great news! FYI, you can swap the antenna for one from a mini (do a search on the forum). Zero signal loss and a much smaller antenna. Looks stock.

You can use a multisaw (oscillating saw) or just get an Xacto saw (that's what I used and was REALLY easy). http://www.amazon.com/Xacto-X75350-Extra-Fine-Razor/dp/B000BREQIO/ref=pd_cp_hi_2 Just watch your fingers. This is what I used to seal it back up (thanks to kc300c for his recommendation): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00178MO58/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00 Seals perfectly and I have had zero issues. Having said all this, have you considered getting the DTBL plug and play puddles? It's idiot proof and you don't have to do all the work. HyPer, I'd really like to see a photo of your LED puddle mods!

You shouldnt need a relay, but make sure you use a decent (beefy) wire harness with a 55W setup (to take the strain off the factory wiring). 35W will give you a blue color with 6K (a true 6K look) and 55W will be brighter, but will also wash out some of the blue (making it look ~ 5200K in color). I wouldn't recommend the 6K as you will lose quite a bit of light output (as opposed to 4300K or 5000K), ESPECIALLY if the roads are wet. Standard HID (OEM) is 4300K and usually 35W. If you do go with a 55W setup (which is roughly 20% brighter than 35W), please consider a TRS kit or if you do go with DDM, get a TRS or much better brand harness (DDM's 55W harness SUCK. My 55W DDM harness melted after 1 month. I went to TRS and have had ZERO issues since.

Correct. The bulbs are always the same, the ballasts just push more "juice" through the bulbs (which is why 4300k @ 35W will look almost identical to 5000K @ 55W as the higher wattage ballast will wash out some of the color and make it appear to be a lower temp color bulb - google it, kinda neat). If your running a 55W setup, you DEFINITELY want a wire harness to take the stress off the factory wiring, which would be a higher guage (thinner) wire, not designed for HID use. You'll still see some bluish tint at 5K/35W, but you'll see a nice boost in output from your 6K bulbs. We could have a central Jersey meet and satisfy all exits

You definitely lose some lumens (ok, quite a bit) when going with 6k. 4300k @ 35w is the most output you will get from 35w. I am running 5k @ 55w and have a LOT of white output. P.S. I grew up in Morris county but live down near ac. My father still lives in lk Hopatcong and i visit family in clifton often, so we can always try and get an edge meet at some point.

Yes, the 6829CF's will fit (as will the 6832CFs). Door removal is the same.

55W you'll need a wiring harness (to take the increased load off the factory, smaller gauge wiring). 35W you can do without, which simplifies the install. Having said that, some will still recommend a harness for either application (but you will see plenty of members running 35W with no harness and zero issues). 6K will be more of a blue/white color. You sure you want to go with that? 55W will be be brighter and provide a whiter hue in the 6K bulb, whereas 35W will definitely be more blue. I personally wouldn't go higher than 5K.

Like I said, 35W 4300K and 55W 5000K will be identical in color (trust me, I have used many different combinations over the years). You can also google and see photo comparisons. You'll be very pleased with the 4300K and they won't look yellow. If you swap the bulb (you'll then have 35W 5000K), you will notice a very (very) slight blue tint, but it will be perceptible. The bulb swap is simple as all kits (OK, most kits) use the AMP style connector for the bulbs.

Can you access the broken, threaded piece of the antenna? If they broke the base of the unit, then you're SOL and need to likely drop the headliner to replace. If you can get out the remaining threaded portion of the broken antenna, then a replacement is very easy to do (and is a separate part/mast).

35w 4300k or 55w 5000k (I am using the latter). The 55w is brighter (not by a lot, but noticeable) and has a tendency to wash out the blue tint of the 5000k bulb. Result is ZERO blue and a perfect white color. That is why 35w 4300k and 55w 5000k are essentially identical in color. Just go with the relay harness (no need for canbus). You need the 9006 size bulb. I have this exact kit and really like it. Let me know if you need more help. P.S. buy the kit from their eBay store. You can make an offer and save a few $$.

The rear housings can handle 35w hids??? Hmmm. Which kit?

Dan is one of the forum sponsors and his company offers many upgrades for our edges to convert EVERY bulb to led. http://www.daytimebrightlites.com/ I'll give him a shameless plug as more than half my mods are his "fault"! Everything he sells is simple plug and play too.

Yeah, Dingo has similar HIDs in his edge. REALLY tempting!!!

Why don't you just go HID?