candurin

2011 - 2013 have the exact same bulbs. The halogen OEM is the 9012 size bulb. The Edge Sport comes with halogen bulbs as OEM. The Edge Limited comes with an OEM HID installed from the factory, THAT is the the D3S bulb. D3S is NOT a halogen bulb, it is an HID bulb. TRS assumes that you are trying to replace your OEM D3S bulb (which you do NOT have, you have a 9012 HIR2) with another color temp, that is why they are telling you they can't help you. Where are you looking for your bulb? Have you looked in your owners manual? It clearly shows you a chart describing EXACTLY as I just explained: http://www.motorcraftservice.com/pubs/content/~WODEDG/~MUS~LEN/41/13edgom3e.pdf (Look at page 299). Take the leap buddy! You have 9012 (HIR2) bulbs, which can be replaced with 9006 or 9005 size bulbs.

Dawgs, You're killing me. You have a 2012 sport right? The OEM Halogen bulb is a 9012 HIR3 bulb. This is alsmost identical to the 9006 and 9005 bulbs kits which will fit. Many of us have done this exact mod with zero issues.

You'll be fine. All the bulbs come with o-rings to create a good seal, identical to the OEM in that regards. You'll be good to go. You also have the dust cap and bulb wire grommet to keep out particulates and dust. I've had aftermarket HID's (DDM and most recently Morimoto) for over 10 years. You'll be fine.

Dawgs... Did you read this thread? I recommended the TRS kit in post #3. If you really want halos there are a few posters that make them.

2011+ can all utilize 9005 or 9006 bulb HID kits. Which manufacturer you go with is a different story.

Ha!!!!!! That actually caused me to spit my water across my desk. Dingo wasn't literally referring to Lincoln "mercury" switches.

I'm down near AC. I'm often between home and PHL airport. Just send me a pm. I'd be glad to show you the lights.

I have no idea who "Movin' on sound" is, but can-bus is most certainly NOT needed (caveat: unless you have a DRL model such as Canada and California, in which case the bulb-out warning cancelling "can-bus" harness MAY be needed). Everyone else has installed HD Relay harness with zero issues (myself included). No reason to scare off the OP. You can tell "Movin'.." that my guy (me) said it is OK. Obviously they need to do some homework.

The harness goes between your ballasts and connects directly to the battery. You only need to get a relay harness, can-bus isn't needed. If your going with a 35w kit, you won't need the harness (it won't be a bad idea, but would not be required). If you get a 50/55w kit, then yes, one is needed. The purpose of the harness is to have the battery provide direct power for the ballasts and take the strain off the smaller gauge, factory wiring that can't handle the juice needed to ignite the higher wattage hid ballasts.

If you are considering quality over price (not that ddm is a "bad" kit): http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?products_id=3957

They are 9006. Actually, they are HIR (9012) but 9006s fit (as will most 9005 bulbs).

Russ, it really looks like your bulbs are not all the way forward and locked into place. You can always try another manufacturers bulbs to see if they help (they all use AMP connectors and are interchangeable).

Thanks for the heads up Weezer... That sucks about the compatability issue! Oh well. Guess I'll have to wait for Dan to finish up his DTBL DRL v2's in order to mod a few more things. Hmm... What to do next...?

I wish I wasn't temped to go with the vled tritons...

I used them with my Infinity speaker upgrade and also had to swap polarity on all 4 speakers.

I just called a few weeks ago. Was offered $77 for 1 year or $25 for 6 months. Took the 6 months and figured I'll call back again in July and play the game.

Not too mention, if you do see a hint of blue at the edge it will only be, well, when you can see the edge (i.e. up against a white wall, garage, etc). Under normal driving situations, on the road, you will never see the perimeter of the light. At least I don't

I installed standards. No problem.

Correct. Mine are sideways and cannot be seen with lows or highs activated.

I did all of them (not sure it is consistent across all bulbs and all brands). Just trial an error. If your good with an xacto, that should work. You just really want to be sure you have the bulbs seated and twisted all way. As long as your return wire orientation is correct, the light output should be artifact free with nice, sharp horizontal cut-offs.

I has to dremel my TRS bulbs to thin the tabs a little bit (not side to side but front to back, if that makes sense). The socket tab receptacles are tight and there was no way for me to securely twist without shaving them a little. My original ddm's fit without dremelling...

Seems like your bulb may not be pushed all the way forward. Are all 3 tabs secure in place?

MDubs, please don't go with 6k bulbs. They are way too blue and you will lose a LOT of light output. In fact, kc300c removed his 6k bulbs soon after he installed them. He is using 5k bulbs now, if I remember. Stick with 4300 or 5000k for max output/brightness. You will have sh!t vision in rain with 6k bulbs.

I used the same 3m high temp mounting "Velcro" as my ballasts (not because the resistors get hot, but because the engine bay does). Here's what I use to mount all my mods (HID ballasts, drl controller, resistors, etc.): http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007OXK1WI/ref=redir_mdp_mobile?redirect=true&ref_=oh_details_o06_s00_i00 Never failed yet. Just. And sure you mount on clean surfaces (just clean both surfaces with rubbing/isopropyl alcohol first). I mounted them adjacent to my ballasts, right to the metal frame of my car (I would have no problem mounting them to plastic). The resistors don't even remotely get hot.

That's because Cellbine installed the type 1s (amber-white-amber). Type 2s (white-black-amber-black-white) require load resistors. Here's the ones I am using: http://www.vleds.com/6-ohm-50w-2-bulb-load-equalizer-resistors-led-turn-signal-blinker-fix-1-pair.html You simply use the included scotch-Loks and clamp the resistor black wires, one to the turn wire and the other to the ground wire. It is really (REALLY) easy. Literally takes a few minutes. That will make the type 2s work, without problems.