candurin

Shouldn't make a difference for this application.

I have a resistor installed. It would definitely help.

For what it's worth, they didn't act up yesterday when I took my car in for my 22.5k service. Between the DTBL and switchbacks have the technicians came out to ogle my edge in the service bay during the lights check...

Mine are not that pronounced. Just a little flicker (and this only occurs about 30% of the time). It's a little "flash" of white immediately after the ambers light up. Not as inherently FU'ed as yours

I've had my 5Five's in for two years. Auto on has been working flawlessly the entire time (haven't moved the dial since buying the car). I use the HD harness and never looked back. Never get flashed either.

I guess it's just a select few of us that get "type 3" switchbacks: AMBER-FLASHOFWHITE-OFF-AMBER-FLASHOFWHITE-OFF-AMBER

You can add me to that list. I'm experiencing the same exact situation as rusty (for almost two years since installing the bulbs). My switchbacks work 90% of the time but, occasionally, throw out a white flash. I've just accepted it...

I keep a spare USB drive with the delayed reboot app on it (http://outofmytouch.com/reboot.html) in my console. I pop it in (it auto installs) whenever I need a system reboot. I've tried many fuse pulls and this always resolves any issues I have (especially when I press the sync voice button and the voice never works). It saved me much time and aggravation. It also retains ALL of your settings (except maybe trip guage and tachometer/fuel display).

I don't think you can replace the LED lighting in the sill plate as it is an integrated light strip/array. Is your edge still under warranty? it would be easier for them just to replace the entire illuminated sill plate rather than cut, replace and solder.

Damn CB, aren't you supposed to be working over there? Looks good! I washed my edge yesterday but forgot a video I'm off mods for a bit, just booked a disney trip for the wife & kids. That'll put and end to mods, real quick.

You can always have a go at replacing them yourself. For example: http://factoryxenon.com/shop/2x-osram-xenarc-66340-d3s-35w-xenon-headlight-hid-bulbs-lights-new-genuine-oem-2/

Wow! Where'd you score it for $600?

You can log into the ford sync website, set up an account and it will then walk you through to see if you need an update: https://support.ford.com/tools/account/sync-software Some phones do not allow text responding via sync (my iphone does not). Or it may be a phone setting that activates the compatibility (admittedly, I have no idea how to go about it via android).

Use the two bolts that should be included with the bracket to secure the plate to the bracket. Or you can drill the rivets and get chrome plugs from a local hardware store. Barely noticeable and clean looking.

You can talk to your ford dealer (and the ford rep that is on this board). If it is 3 weeks out of warranty, sometimes they will help you out.

Did you update sync (although you probably have the latest version) or your phone? Did you change phones? What phone are you using? We need more info, in order to help.

There are only 4 physical speakers (one in each door). The front speakers are two-way, which ford considers two individual speakers (bringing the total number to "6").

8k? Good luck in the rain... Beam pattern looks good though.

http://drivebright.com/home/product-category/runninglights/

My mirror was completely busted. All the textured plastic under the body colored cap, the motor and the bezel was busted. I wish it was only the glass...

Just reviving this thread to give my thanks for the photos! Some a$$hole clipped my passenger's (RH) mirror on Saturday while my wife and I were out to dinner (finally got a chance to go out without the kids). Thanks to the information on here I was able to remove the mirror glass in order to replace the body colored cap. The only pieces spared were the mirror cover/cap and my LED puddle light. Took 10 minutes and $220 (entire mirror) to do the job.

Just a heads up. My badge was actually secured from behind with a "bolt" of sorts. It was not threaded, but it did require me to use pliers to pry it off those little clip/bolts. It was hard to describe. There was no way I could just pull it off from the front.

You can try and add capacitors.

It takes less than 10 minutes to drop the front bumper (you don't need to remove it completely). I have no return wire shadows in my morimotos.

I had to trim my morimotos a bit. I probably wouldn't have had to if I had lowered the front fascia/bumper and simply taken the headlights out. That would have saved me a LOT of time, f-bombs and busted knuckles. I had same issues when I originally tried to install my DDM bulbs. I think the edge is just a b!tch to swap bulbs out while keeping the headlights installed.