candurin

I got mine cut at Home Depot. Lowes, Ace or any local place that cuts keys can take care of it for you. I'd imagine a few dollars at most. But, since you'll need your dealer to activate auto start, they might cut them for you during that process at no additional charge (couldn't hurt to ask).

That would absolutely work. All you need is the antenna plugged into the TPMS (which is exactly what that kit is you linked). The 100 series does not need the VSS or RMST (again, same box with different install locations) module. You will still need a hood switch and have the dealer activate remote start via IDS Scan Tool for you.

So some additional information that might be useful. I just purchased the 4 button keys (so I have remote start from my keyfob as well). I purchased non-OEM keys (which work perfectly fine): http://www.ebay.com/itm/351261924649?item=351261924649&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:X:RTQ:MOTORS:1123&vxp=mtr and I was lucky that they had them on "sale" for $72.95 a week or so ago. Edit: I had them cut at Home Depot (no charge as they were my keys, not theirs). The gentlemen that cut them was quick to tell me that they are not responsible if the keys don't work (you're SOL). He also stated that the ford keys were the easiest to cut and I should have no worries (which I didn't). 5 minutes later, two perfectly working keys. First I tried the additional key fob programming from the manual, but this only allowed me to use the key itself, not the fob functions. The I tried the remote learning programming method from the Remote Start installation instructions and no go. Finally I used this method: Procedure : 1.Close all doors, then open drivers door and press the Unlock button on drivers door while it is open, insert key into ignition. 2.Turn ignition from OFF to RUN 8 times within 8 seconds, with the 8th time ending in RUN. Door locks will cycle to confirm programming mode. (if the door locks do not cycle, then it was done incorrectly. You must start over by removing key and beginning from step 1) (Off is the position where you can remove your key, RUN is the position just shy of starting your car.) 3.Within 10 seconds press any button on the first keyless remote to be programmed. Door locks will cycle to confirm programming. If you only have one remote then skip to step 5. 4.Within 10 seconds, press any button on the second keyless remote. Door locks will cycle again to confirm programming. Repeat step 4. for all other remotes. 5.Turn ignition to OFF. Locks will again cycle to indicate end of programming mode. and it worked perfectly. Now I have two remote start keyfobs (for when I am near my car) and the cellular function for when I am not.

Looks real good. I did a piss poor job when I tried to mask and dip my grill. Bit the bullet and installed the black grill inserts. I only dipped the chrome lip just below the hood and above the headlights (and I have a chip I need to patch).

Nope. If you purchase the remote access kit (DL3Z-19G364-A) on eBay, it includes the VSS (referred to as the RMST unit). I had nothing previously installed and the kit includes Everything you need to be up and running (pun intended).

Here's a great post with pictures on how to remove the panel: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/8434-2011-ford-edge-200-series-remote-start-diy-bb5z-19g364-c/ The clips holding the panel to the floor pan are a b!tch to remove, but no busted knuckles. Once your have the cellular remote function activated you'll get an email from ford letting you know that you have 3 days free and that you need to activate and pay for the cell services.

I would assume those are for dark, unlit roads/areas where there are no oncoming traffic.

The issue is more with people putting HIDs in their halogen REFLECTOR housings. There should be zero issues with retrofitting projector housings. Just an FYI, if you rotate your HID bulb so that the return wire is down, you'll eliminate that wedge shaped shadow that you can see in your beam comparison photo (at 3:00 position).

Yup. 2011-2014 have identical bodies. You won't have an issue with fit.

Just to add some extra info from my original post (as it relates to the remote access). My dealer (Chapman Ford in Egg Harbor, NJ) charged me 1/2 Hour labor to get everything setup ($49 + tax). They used the IDS to add the remote start feature to the vehicle and then called ford to activate the cellular portion. Apparently I was the first one to have this done. I set up the app to notify me via text and email (in case I was in a crappy cell area but had wifi) for any alarm triggers. I just tested the alarm by way of triggering the shock sensor and by opening the door. I got an email and text (almost simultaneously) that my alarm had been triggered by someone opening the door and then another notification that the shock sensor had been activated. You will not get notified if there is a mild shock trigger (one horn beep). The only thing that really confused the service department was that I didn't have a remote start keyfob (which I may still buy). I had to remind them that is why I went the smartphone route. All in all, best $300 I've spent on my Edge so far.

I lucked out. Once I used your ebay link and searched around a little. I saw another seller offering the same kit. I got it for $242.50! The seller I used still has quite a bit of them for sale: http://www.ebay.com/itm/311229166183

I have been researching adding a factory start to my 2012 SEL Edge (no factory remote starter components previously installed). I learned a lot this past week and decided to share. I will apologize in advance as I have a tendency to jump around (in my head and in writing). I decided on the remote access (smartphone app) factory start and heres what I discovered (IF SOMETHING I MENTION IS WRONG, PLEASE ADD A CORRECTION): All of the following options pertain to 2011+ model years. If you want to add options for the 2010 and earlier, please feel free to do so. Please note that in late 2013 (calendar date, not vehicle model year) Ford decided to change the way Remote Start functionality is added to a vehicle. Prior to this change, all remote start features were added at the rear LH (drivers) side quarter panel, directly to the TPMS (tire pressure monitoring system) module. At that time, the RMST (ReMote STarter) module was the core of the system. It contains a shock sensor and all connections are made to this module (some of the older 200 series units include a separate shock sensor). After the change Ford decided that the VSS (Vehicle Security System) would be the core of the system, but, this would be directly connected to the OBD (instead of the TPMS). The RMST and VSS look identical in every way. The RMST part number is DL3J-19G367-AA and the VSS part number is DL3J-19G367-AB. They look exactly the same in every way! It looks as though the VSS is rev. B of the RMST (and the VSS box even states RevB on it!). Basically, Ford decided to discontinue individual all-in-one remote start kits (100, long-range, 200, bi-directional and remote access) to Scalable kits (where you buy each piece individually). From what I have seen and read, either the older TPMS (RMST) version or the newer OBD (VSS) version of remote starter kits BOTH work with 2011-2014 Ford vehicles. Ford simply discontinued the all-in-one packaged versions (TPMS) of the kits and went with upgradeable/piggyback/build-your-own versions that are connected to the OBD directly. Heres the instructions before late 2013: http://www.fordservicecontent.com/ford_content/catalog/accessory_files/2011-2013%20Remote%20Access_Truck3-15-2013.pdf * Notice the RMST and Remote Start Antenna connects directly to the TPMS via the harness Heres the instructions after late 2013: http://www.fordservicecontent.com/ford_content/catalog/accessory_files/2011_2014_Scalable_Kit_Truck_10_18_2013.pdf * Notice the VSS connects to the OBD and the long range antenna, optional LED and RMU all connect to the VSS (optional 100 series antenna can be added to TPMS for short range remote start functionality).   Heres a list of part numbers that should help pull all of this together (again, older TPMS connected kits will still work fine and save you a bunch of $$ as well): IKTs, IAs, Fobs (I know they are not Ford OEM numbers, but they work with google ). 164-R8070 (IKT: three buttons; lock, unlock, panic) 164-R8073 (IKT: four buttons; lock, unlock, trunk release, panic) 164-R8067 (IKT: four buttons; lock, unlock, remote start, panic) 164-R8000 (IKT: five button; lock, unlock, remote start, trunk/liftgate, panic) * Note, seems like all IKTs have FCC ID: CWTWB1U793 in common 164-R8091 (IA: four buttons; lock, unlock, remote start, panic) 164-R8092 (IA: five button; lock, unlock, remote start, trunk/liftgate, panic) Long Range Key Fob: DS7Z-15K601-F Bi-Directional Key Fob: DL3Z-15K601-A Pre-late 2013 TPMS connected kits (all-in-one): 100 Series Kit: BC3Z-19G364-A (with power liftgate: DA8Z-19G364-A) 200 Series (with separate shock sensor): BB5Z-19G364-C Optional LED Light (for shock sensor): DM5Z-19D596-A Bi-Directional Kit (without shock sensor): BT4Z-19G364-A Long-Range, One-Way Kit: CL3Z-19G364-A (with keyless start: CL3Z-19G364-B Remote Access Kit: DL3Z-19G364-A, (optional: add TPMS Antenna, DA8Z-15603-A for series 100 IKT start) * Hood Switch (BT4Z-19G366-A) needs to be installed for any kit to work Post-late 2013 OBD connected kits (scalable, pick and choose options): 100 Series Kit: BC3Z-19G364-A (with power liftgate: DA8Z-19G364-A) - Does NOT Require VSS Installation Vehicle Security System: DT4Z-19A361-A Long Range Aerial Antenna (for long range/one-way and bi-directional starters): DL3Z-15603-C Optional LED Light (for VSS indicator): DM5Z-19D596-A Long Range Key Fob: DS7Z-15K601-F Bi-Directional Key Fob: DL3Z-15K601-A Remote Access Unit (for smartphone remote start): DL3Z-19A390-B (US), DL3Z-19A390-C (Canada) * Hood Switch (BT4Z-19G366-A) needs to be installed for any kit to work Finally, programming and activation: Activation of the Remote Starter feature of the vehicle itself requires a trip to the dealer. This should take no more than 15 minutes for them to connect your car to the Ford IDS Scan tool (or any local shop that has access to it). They simply need to select and activate the remote start options in the menu. The learning of the remote start system (separate procedure from the IDS activation) is explained in the remote start instruction manuals. If you want to program additional keys (PATS), you can follow the procedure in the owners manual (this will allow the key and/or fob to be used (including IA fobs). You MUST have two existing programmed keys in order to be able to DIY this (if not, youre off to the dealer or a locksmith with programming tool). The remote (smartphone) access can be done over the phone and takes 10 minutes. If you purchased your kits from Levittown Ford, Benny will do this for you over the phone. I think I covered the basics. There are already some excellent threads that include a lot more detail and photos. I just installed my Remote Access Kit (older TPMS one) and had it activated today (purchased on Ebay). Despite the fact Ford is only offering the OBD/VSS version now, mine activated and works just fine with no issues. Hopefully this helps someone as much as it helped myself.

So, I guess the security kit is mandatory...

So, the vehicle security kit is not needed?

Trockli, I am researching this as you are (maybe we will figure this out). DL3Z-19G364-A is the "Remote Access Kit" DL3Z-19A390-B is the "RMU Kit - USA" In TRMN8TR's post (the one you linked to) he purchased the -A kit and the instructions he linked to say the kit should include the antenna. However the photos do not show the antenna on the eBay auction. I'm making myself more confused.

I'm still trying to figure this out as well... For a 2011-2014 edge with regular key ignition do you need: Antenna, hood switch, security system? Way too many options and accessories to choose from...

Non-HID kits (i.e. Halogen) do not use ballasts. You should have no warranty issues (outside of headlight issues that are found to be related to HIDs). I had no issues with the 7/8" bit and the connectors fitting on my TRS kit.

I did the exact same thing your trying to do. Using the pins, they went right into the mirror harness with no issues: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/13215-radar-detector-hardwire-info/

Do you have a part number for the oem enclosure?

The whole bumper needs to come off so you can remove the entire grill (ribs & honeycomb plastic). Then you can remove the grill "ribs".

Sorry ... Double posted.

Yes it is. It's identical to the 2011-2014.

Dynamikillu51ons@gmail.com 313-320-3228 Information from their website, which you can find on their FB page (thanks Perf),

I've had mine on for just about two years and have had zero issues and look fantastic after cleaning and waxing (even before!). The only touch ups I've done is the very edges where the chrome plastic and steel underneath leave a slight gap.

I use a wire harness with my 5Fives and have yet to have a flicker...