candurin

You mean the o-rings on the sockets?

Looks great! The old CB would have just p-dipped it...

Ah. Thanks gentlemen. I was thinking one thing and read another. I assumed "retrofit" was hid installed in halogen projectors. Yes, TRS aftermarket projectors can give you some unbelievably sharp cut-offs. I have been nothing but thrilled with my TRS HID kit. Having said that, my wife has DDM 35w setup in her cx-9 and it has been going for over 6 years without issue.

Nick, you sure those aren't labelled incorrectly? The sharp cutoff picture should be OEM.

They physically fit, but they are wired differently. I would urge you to take a look at these: http://drivebright.com/home/shop/new-2007-10-ford-edge-led-tail-light-set-shadow-black-sport/

My apologies for the delay, I was out on business all week. I've always gone with the 55W in my cars because I like the additional lumens. Yes, 35W and 55W use the same bulbs, but the 55W ballast drive them "harder". As a result, you get a hotspot in the center of your beam pattern. This isn't a bad thing, but keep in mind it will add some washout to your color selection. A 5000K kit will the appearance of a 4300K, 6000K appears to look closer to 5000K, etc. I would have used a wire harness, regardless, so I figured I might as well go 55W I have a 4300K bulb in my car and couldn't be happier with the color. There was a post on here not too long ago (Nick had commented in there as well) showing the differences between a true Edge HID projector and the halogen version (the one with the dimpled lens projector). You will get a sharper cutoff without the dimpled projector but, to be honest, the HID retrofit looks just like HID OEM (to me) and absolutely lights up the road (SAFELY!) Why 9006 vs 9012? The OEM bulb is an HIR2 bulb, which is a 9012 bulb. For a long time, aftermarket HID's only came in 9006 size, which have the same tab layout (almost, the 12 o'clock position tab is taller and wider on a 9012 than a 90060 and fit in the 9012 housing (I am using a 9006 kit for almost 4 years now). Now that the aftermarket manufacturer's are building 9012 size kits, you can just as easily use that one (9012 bulbs need modding in order to fit in a 9006 housing but not the other way around, so we are fortunate). I really doesn't make a difference.

My $0.02: LED: http://www.vleds.com/shop-products/lmz/lmz-4500lm/9006-lmz.html HID: https://www.theretrofitsource.com/hid-systems/morimoto-elite-hid-system-9012.html#.Vp7elYo8KnM I've had the TRS morimotos in for almost 4 years and couldn't be happier. Plenty of light at night, rain and anything in between. Just keep it to 4300k or 5000k.

I'm sure you did, but did you try the troubleshooting guide on their website? I took a quick look and it has a section for "Ignition turns On, but never Starts/Cranks" If the LED does not turn on, it has you look at this: "There is a problem with the (-)while running signal. You may want to try grounding that wire (DARK BLUE on the EVO-RIDE) to see if the LED turns on. If it does, something is wrong from the RS end. If you are using Datalink make sure you remote starter is set to the Fortin Datalink protocol" If LED works, then you may have programming issue and you need to update and reprogram module http://fortin.ca/en/support/troubleshooting.html

Mine has been on for almost 3 years. Still cleans and polishes up perfectly. I used 1 can (6 coats) per wheel. I've sprayed touch ups over top 18-24 month old plastic dip and it is not noticeable. The stuff blends/feathers nicely.

Page 76 of the owner's manual. But you should be able to do this from MFT as well: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Ux0ShZ91mWM

The number of buttons does not matter. My keys that came with my vehicle are the three button fobs. I purchased the 4 button version after I added remote start and they activated without issue. Now I have 4 keys and all work just fine, even though two have 3 buttons and two have 4 buttons.

If I remember correctly, i think I actually started the car ("on") during this procedure. Run is the position before ignition and that's when the dashboard lights come on. I'm almost positive I did, because seem to recall, needing to open my garage door.

Do they operate when you manually turn them on (after the car has started)? Let's rule out any issues with the seats themselves.

I used this procedure to program my key (I had to do the buttons separately): 1. Insert the first previously programmed coded key into the ignition. 2. Turn the ignition from off to on. Keep the ignition on for at least three seconds, but no more than 10 seconds. 3. Turn the ignition off and remove the first coded key from the ignition. 4. After three seconds but within 10 seconds of turning the ignition off, insert the second previously coded key into the ignition. 5. Turn the ignition from off to on. Keep the ignition on for at least three seconds, but no more than 10 seconds. 6. Turn the ignition off and remove the second previously programmed coded key from the ignition. 7. After three seconds but within 20 seconds of turning the ignition off and removing the previously programmed coded key, insert the new unprogrammed key into the ignition. 8. Turn the ignition from off to on. Keep the ignition on for at least six seconds. 9. Remove the newly programmed coded key from the ignition.

Try this to program the IKT fobs... Procedure: 1.Close all doors, then open drivers door and press the Unlock button on drivers door while it is open, insert key into ignition. 2.Turn ignition from OFF to RUN 8 times within 8 seconds, with the 8th time ending in RUN. Door locks will cycle to confirm programming mode. (if the door locks do not cycle, then it was done incorrectly. You must start over by removing key and beginning from step 1) (Off is the position where you can remove your key, RUN is the position just shy of starting your car.) 3.Within 10 seconds press any button on the first keyless remote to be programmed. Door locks will cycle to confirm programming. If you only have one remote then skip to step 5. 4.Within 10 seconds, press any button on the second keyless remote. Door locks will cycle again to confirm programming. Repeat step 4. for all other remotes. 5.Turn ignition to OFF. Locks will again cycle to indicate end of programming mode.

Not to diminish what akirby is saying (to which I agree). But, I've had quite a few drinks today and I'm browsing on my phone so I'm feeling generous: It's on the sticker affixed on the fuse box located just behind the panel underneath the staring wheel on the left hand side (above the dummy/foot rest pedal).

Come on, gentlemen. We all giggle when we see a corolla with purple headlights. In Jersey, that's an immediate ticket.

No. The IKT fobs will not replace bi-directional fobs. You can use these on your vehicle but you will loose 2/3rds of your range as well as indicator feature from the bi-directional fob. I don't have the power liftgate either and this is they key I have been using. What are you trying to buy?

The 2011+ MY edge is plug and play (except for activation of remote start via IDS). Older MY edge vehicles required wire splicing.

That sounds like it could be it. Does it tie into the OBDII connector? Take a look at page 39 in the install manual: http://www.fordservicecontent.com/ford_content/catalog/accessory_files/2011_2014_Scalable_Kit_Truck_10_18_2013.pdf

ebay has some good prices: Long range all in one is $240: http://www.ebay.com/itm/252208855767 And bi-directional all in one is $261: http://www.ebay.com/itm/281244042354 Or you can part it out... RFR antenna for $25 from Levittown ford Hood switch $16.50 from Levittown ford Lr antenna: $49 Levittown ford Lr fob: $33 from Levittown ford (b-d fob is $66) Again, parting it out is much cheaper if you have the VSS module up front under the dash. If not, the VSS module is $157. At that point the all in one kits make more sense. I recommend buying everything from Levittown (Benny is an excellent source of help when installing too!) unless the pricing is completely to good to pass up (such as the all in one kits).

You also need the remote start antenna. 1. RFR antenna, that plugs into TPMS 2. Long range antenna 3. Long range fob 4. Hood switch You can do the install yourself in an hour or less. Then go to dealer and have them activate your remote start in the IDS. They should be able to do it for as little as 0.5 hour labor.

Got it. OK. Let's clear things up. The reason this became so confusing is that before late 2013 all installations were performed in the rear LH panel. Now after that date (late model 2013 and newer), then wanted the connections to be done up front. Pre-late 2013 everything connected to the TPMS. After that, the remote start antenna connected to the TPMS and everything else connects to the OBD. Now, because you have the power lift gate, you already have the Vehicle Security System) located up under the dash (you should be able to see a Y cable coming off the OBDII connector and one cable going into a small black box (this is the VSS module). This is where you will connect the long range antenna to. If you do not have one, then I would look into one of the ALL-IN-ONE kits I mention below. You have to decide if you want short or long range. Note: the 5 button IKT fobs are only for SHORT range remote starting, they cannot operate long range (even with the LR aerial installed). For either you need the following: Hood switch: BT4Z-19G366-A Remote start antenna (connects to the TPMS module in the rear LH panel) - DA8Z-15603-A. Remote Start cannot be activated (via IDS) on your vehicle without this installed For short range remote start (IKT) you need the following: 5 button integrated Keyhead kit (DA8Z-19G364-A) This entire kit consists of ONLY two 5 button IKT fobs. You can save quite a few $$ on this if you go with non OEM. I have been using my 4 button versions from the exact same seller for over a year without any issues at all (and I had the keys cut for free at home depot). For your application you can just buy this instead: http://www.ebay.com/itm/351271181175.For long range remote start you need the following: Long range fob (DS7Z-15K601-F) or the Bi-directional long range fob which also has an indicator that the car has started (DL3Z-15K601-A) Long range aerial antenna: DL3Z-15603-C This connects up front to the VSS module. Lastly, you can also opt to install the all-in-one long range kit (CL3Z-19G364-A), which includes the TPMS antenna, LR antenna and LR fob or you can also get the bi-directional version (BT4Z-19G364-A), which is identical kit but with bi-directional remote. Either option allows you to wire everything at the rear LH panel instead of some up front and some in the back. These were the all-in one kits made available before the late 2013 change over but will still work in your car. Using these all-in-one kits really comes down to what pricing you are finding. If the separate components are less expensive, just go that route. Hopefully that clears it up for you. If not, please ask any additional questions you might have. Heres some additional information that might help: 2011-early 2013 remote starter kits: http://www.paulmachenry.com/documents/Hero%20Cards/2013%20Remote%20Start%20Apps%20Chart.pdf late 2013- 2014 remote starter kits: http://www.paulmachenry.com/documents/Hero%20Cards/FORD%20RMST%20Apps.pdf

Do you have push button start? Also, do you want standard remote start (300' range), long range (up to 1500'), bidirectional or cellular remote start? There's a lot of options.

Wait... You did a thorough cleaning of a 2015!? Nick, you can officially detail my 2012 whenever you have time, or feel like removing welding slag from every inch of the floor! Looks impressive.