candurin

I'm basing this on the voltage readout on my hardwired radar detector (which shows voltage on the main screen). Before, when I had my OEM battery (540 cca) the voltage was always displaying 14.4V while driving. Now, a month ago when I replaced the OEM battery with the 850 CCA interstate battery, my radar detector is always displaying 14.1V while driving. Should I be concerned about the health of my alternator? I have no issues starting the car (remote or otherwise) and everything seems to be normal. Voltages are confirmed with my meter on the battery terminals, while running. Just curious to know why I am losing 0.3V while driving. My car only has 49K miles.

Oops. Well, anything i can do to make your job more difficult, please do not hesitate to ask!

I admittedly don't really use my keypad, by try using the 6 OEM digit code and then the 7/8 key and see if that unlocks the doors. Then press the 3/4 and 5/6 key simultaneously to lock them.

I did a full write up here; http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/17035-adding-oem-remote-start-kits-parts-explained-detailed-2011/page-1 I purchased an all in one kit that had the vss/rst and remote access device (cellular component with SIM card). You don't need a two way remote/fob if you are using the remote access/smartphone

I have this installed and working on my 2012 edge. But, it has no relationship to CarPlay or sync 3. It's simply an add on to an existing remote start system that has a SIM card cellular module. I'm paying $40/year for the service.

It's just not feasible... Can I ask why you purchased the car if it did not have what you wanted?

Here is more info on the pigment itself: http://www.merck-performance-materials.com/en/coatings/coatings_colorstream/coatings_colorstream.html I worked for this company for 11 years (another division).

I replaced mine with the black primed version years ago (looks great with my tux black paint, no need to actually paint it - still looks brand new). Yes, you will need to remove the entire bumper (very easy to do) and be careful of the clips when removing the grille "ribs". Should take no more than an hour.

Wizard, you're a scholar and a saint... I'm way past #8. Already a few nitro IPAs into my day (best Sam Adams beer, ever).

All fixed! Allow me to walk you through this: 1. Realize when your two miles away from your house at 10:30pm last night that you have no headlights 2. be glad your diode dynamic switchbacks are bright enough illuminate the sides of the road 3. be glad your only on 25mph streets with lots of streetlights 4. go to bed angry 5. wake up and be glad that Perf wakes up early as sin and has access to every service manual 6. pull and visually check all related fuses - pass 7. google "check fuses with a multimeter" 8. walk pass bar in my den and contemplate a drink at 7:45am - wife somewhat approves 9. grab my multimeter and all fuses pass continuity check - wow! a function on a meter I have never used before (still have no idea what it really means) - pass 10. use Perf's checklist and confirm voltage on the headlight connection - first two pinpoint tests pass (12.25V) 11. start googling cost of headlight switch ($48 from levittown ford BTW) 12. walk past bar again and stare at my 18 yr old macallan 13. call ford and ask if they can squeeze me in for an emergency diagnostic check (now I am thinking the SJB/BCM needs a reset due to new battery) 14. drop a few f-bombs outside of earshot from wife and kids 15. go into attic above garage and find my OEM 9012 bulbs 16. plug them in and laugh as they light up immediately 17. really start to trace and follow all wiring in my TRS morimoto HID kit. 18. Finally come to the realization that I forgot to plug the black wire back to my battery (yup, it was sitting right behind the new battery)!!! 19. Grab my socket wrench, put it back on the negative accessory terminal and watch my headlights fire right up 20. cancel the ford service request 21. stare at that damn macallan again (I'll revisit this again tonight) 22. decide to go share in my misery with the forum 23. come to the conclusion that the past hour or so of my hilarious diagnostic abilities would make a fantastic MercyGirl production video I should mention that I am a scientist. Automotive repair and tinkering is just a hobby of mine. But, I now know what the damn Omega symbol on my multimeter is for (albeit, I still have no idea why there is 6 varying ranges nor what it really is telling me). I also learned how to troubleshoot a failing battery and a functional alternator). Happy Saturday folks.

So, this was a fun surprise. Go to leave the house tonight and headlights won't come on. Not in auto, not in headlight on. Checked fuses 16 and 17 (maybe 18?) for L/r headlamps and both are good. My morimotos relays are lit up green, so those are ok. Checked in-line fuse for hard wire HID harness and that's ok. I can hear something clicking properly when I change the headlight switch and the shutters work when I click on the highbeams (no light, of course). Any troubleshooting steps would be greatly appreciated.

Another great video Mac! I just replaced the 540CCA motorcraft OEM battery. Went to start car today and no dice. Used my wife's car to jump mine and still no go. Put my meter on it and battery was at 4.7V! Not good. Got a great deal on an interstate megatron plus MTP-65 with 850 CCA ($89, yes $89!). Installed it in less than 10 minutes (your video was perfect). 12.6V before turning the key. 14.37 upon firing it up (whew, alternator still good). Absolutely an improved and faster response when starting the car.

I find that well trained dogs work... The unfortunate truth is that if someone wants in your car, they will get in your car. LEDs, window decals and audible alarm may scare them, but, it's not a guarantee. Again, park in a garage, safe area or places with posted surveillance and be smart about what you leave in your car.

Without keyless entry? Sure. Without alarm going off? Possibly, but less likely (depends on shock sensor sensitivity and if they open a door). Don't assume the alarm will have any effect on them. If someone wants to get into your vehicle, they will. Alarm or not. Even if your alarm goes off, they have more than enough time to grab what they want and be gone before anyone has time to react. Any countermeasure (alarms, lights, led warnings, etc) are just deterrents. Determination far outweighs them. Best idea is to park in a trustworthy area with surveillance signs clearly posted.

I would try a simple resolution first and change the batteries in the fobs. My wife's CX-9 remotes would act erratically (identical symptoms to what your describing) and a fresh coin battery resolved the problems.

It would seem as though any response we offer you will not be satisfactory. Why don't you use voice control? What exactly is occurring when you use auto? What is the outside temp vs. your temp set point?

Thank you!!! I wish my wife would understand this. People have no idea how to use auto climate features. The fan will come on full blast if the temp differential from the setpoint is great. Once you achieve temp (or close the gap a bit) the fan will slow down to accommodate the smaller differential and finally stop blowing. I only ever change the temp and never the fan. Concerning the lack of temp control on the dash display, can you not still use sync voice commands to change the temperature?

My temp button does not have an led. Cinnamon, you don't have a "my temp" button between the physical climate temp up and down buttons? I have the non-Sony MFT, is the physical button not on the Sony version?

Not necessarily (just as a note of caution). If the 100 series was the oem option, there would not be the extended aerial antenna (required for bi-directional or long range RS versions). Does your keyfob have a remote start button (circular arrow with a 2x)?

I have my doubts that someone would (nor could) they remove your keyless entry system and replace it with a standard/keyed ignition. Did you check the original Windows sticker to ensure it was included from the factory? Short answer, no. It's not even feasible.

Video (I see why the one word posts have become such a hit!):

It took me at least 4 attempts to find the damage that is the subject of this post... I agree. That clearly looks like incidental damage. No one is pointing fingers, but, that will need to be an insurance claim. Had it been a manufacturing defect. I would have expected the entire trim piece to fall out, fracture at a seam, etc. That just looks like impact damage. Yes, it sucks (I know, I just replaced a windshield, so I am sympathetic to the fact you have to grab your ankles).

I cancelled safelite and went with a local installer. He called farmer's insurance (our carrier) and had it all set up in less than 24 hours. New OEM glass in and it took him under an hour. Great work! Oddly enough he was $70 less expensive than safelite with their brand glass. I still think safelite could have gotten OEM for me. They just didn't want to be bothered or their margin is greater (makes sense) on their glass.

NJ is brutal for drivers! At $100, it's not too bad. Apparently, safelite has their own soundproof glass. I'm sure their windshields are fine, but, whenever I can get exact OEM replacement, I always will...

So, I went out to my car Sunday (after leaving it in a parking lot at campground all weekend) to discover a 3' S-shaped crack in the glass (rock or debri Impact just below wiper blade). Set up an immediate appointment with safelite and requested Carlite Soundscreen windshield/OEM. No go. My insurance would not cover their "overcharge" of $200 for OEM glass. My insurance deductible is $100 and safelite gets paid $238, plus tax (so $361 total) for their aftermarket glass. I called around and found a local installer (my local ford dealer recommended them) that will install the OEM glass for $320 plus tax. My insurance company agreed. No idea why safelite just won't use the OEM glass. Oddly enough Carlite lists them as authorized installers.