candurin

Odd. Did you use safelite? The only inference I can draw is that as safelite makes ap technoglass windhields since 2014 (dot-376 indicates the manufacturer), maybe that is their unique carlite version? I don't see "9T43" referenced anywhere! I've actually never seen google come up with "nothing". I'm grasping at straws as well.

Can you take a look at the part number on the lower right hand corner of the windshield? If it starts with AA1Z or BA1Z (and has the soundscreen logo), it is a soundscreen version, which according to marketing literature, lowers road noise by up to 6db. If your part number starts with AA13 or BA13, there is no vinyl sheet between the glass sheets and is not a soudnscreen version. Carlite makes good windshields. Perhaps you can raise a complaint that your OEN windshield was the acousticg glass version and that's what you were expecting?

Are you looking for long range or just to use your existing 5 button IKT?

Nah. For the cost of.a Bluetooth OBD adapter and the latest maps, you can enable Navigation using ForScan: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/21484-success-added-oem-navigation-to-mft-sync2-v38/

Just had my second windshield replaced (just bad luck). Local Safelite again refused to use Carlite SoundScreen. Called another local auto glass shop (he did my first replacement) and installed the OEM glass 24 hours later (he would have done pilkington too if I wanted). Finally got insurance company to put local guy on preferred list. Now I don't even have to reject safelite as step #1.

17. I keep reminding her that most inmates eventually get paroled for good behavior at some point...

Well damn... I stand corrected! Glad it worked out for you. I've been diving for 15 years and any o-ring or gasket I've ever come access that was warped has always been shot.

Sorry, I misunderstood! But, it may help to gentle heat while reseated properly. You could get lucky and there is no harm in attempting it.

Unfortunately, similar to any gasket or o-ring once it is deformed it is usually permanent. You can try some heat, but be cautious and don't allow too much temp build up in a single area as it could cause the rubber to become brittle or warp even more. Perhaps a small amount of carefully placed RTV will help the gasket stay put?

Originally dan handmade the puddles (I.e he used an oscillating tool to open them, put in new festoon led and sealed it with permex 7000. Water would eventually make its way through. As of 2 years ago he had them made for him and they are sealed units. The new brightrax would be as good as oem. That's just my $0.02.

Years ago I remember putting silica packets (the ones you get with beef jerky or other hygro-sensitive items) inside the bottom of my tail lens and headlight (no, they never caught fire or were at any such risk) in my Jetta. Never had a problem after the first instance.

My 2012 sel came with the sound screen. When I had it replaced last year, I used a local guy who used the OEM SS replacement (safelite refused).

Too save everyone some time... It would appear as though these earned the highest marks in each of the categories he discussed in the video: https://gtrlighting.com/headlights/gen-3/ Ironically, when you then look at those bulbs, GTR states this: Projector Headlights: Generally speaking the best thing to use in a projector application is either a halogen (if it was designed for that) or an HID/Xenon bulb (if it was designed for that). Using an LED bulb will work on some halogen projector applications but chances are doing an HID conversion will yield better/brighter light than ANY LED bulb. The technology used in designing this LED bulb is based on mimicing the attributes of a halogen/incandescent bulb, so any halogen housing they should work but your results may vary. Nick H., here's your perfect "I told you so" moment!!!

9006 size is also a suitable replacement. It should fit with zero modifications, however, on some manufacturer's bulbs the tabs are a tad bit thicker and may require a small amount of sanding or a dremel.

That looks right. You'll need to have ford activate the remote start using their IDS software (typically 1/2-1 hour labor charge). If your up to it, it can also be done yourself using a Bluetooth OBDII adapter and forscan software. You'll be connective everything in the drivers side rear of the car (cargo area) to the TPMS module.

Just drove to airport this morning and my phone was unlocked and plugged in. Wife sent me a text and the notification popped up on sync, it read it aloud. iPhone 7 - 10.2 iOS Sync 3.8

This has been reported quite a few times in the past across many ford models with MFT. Is the car cold or hot (outside temp) when this happens? Some claim a master reset fixed it (did you try that?), others claim a system update fixed it (which doesn't help if you are already on 3.8), others required an ACM (Audio Control Module) replacement. Easiest fix seems to be to cycle the ignition off and then back on. I haven't come across any permanent fixes.

Great link, Nick. Why can't ford's implementation be as good as Audi or even nissan? I know, rhetorical...

I feel like I'm taking crazy pills! I think the gist of all this is to use the correct bulb in the correct application. I also think some are confusing xenon bulbs and HIDs, but I digress: Halogen reflectors - use halogens Halogen projectors - use halogens (or you can push the limit here and go with HID) HID projectors - use HIDs LEDs are not to be used in any halogen or HID headlamps. Europe & China are quite lucky as they do get LED specialized headlamps ( ). Again, some may even put LEDs in DRL housings but as long as they only aim down and not up into the field of view of oncoming traffic, I see no issues with that. Back to current question at hand... No, No you will not be able to replace a D3S bulb with an LED.

6000K will be worse in the rain (whiter/more blue) than the stock 4300K due to a number of factors. You can upgrade your d3s hid bulbs (e.g. http://www.theretrofitsource.com/components/bulbs/d3s-morimoto-xb-hid.html) or with another Phillips bulb (the OEM one is pretty good!). Additionally, you upgrade your ballasts to 55w versions and you'll gain 20-30% increase in lumens (approximately and varies dependent on temperature and bulb).

I did end up with the icons. They work perfect on my wife's car. Amazon just had a decent sale on them and picked up two icons for the front and an OE for the rear.

I do keep mine clean regularly (alcohol wipe whenever I clean the car, if not more often). I just put the icons on my wife's CX-9 and I am very impressed! I really feel like my wipers could keep on going, but like I said, it has to happen some time. I swear looking at the motorcraft premium wipers and they look identical to what's on my edge now...

We haven't had a good wiper discussion in awhile (I know, front to back!). My wife's wipers disintegrated on her CX-9, so it prompted me to replace mine as well (OEM 60k miles). They could probably go another 40k, but, better swap them out while I am in the mood. Looking at Bosch ICONs, Valeo 900 (ultimate) traditionals or the OEM premiums (Not premium flat). Seems like I can price them out and can get any of the brands, all 3 blades (Left, Right, Rear) for $30-40 all in. Taking price out of it and the fact OEMs have lasted me 5 years, any reason to go aftermarket?

You can always restart the system. Actually, easiest way is to pull negative battery cable for a few minutes and then put it back on. See if that helps before you give $$ to the dealer.

Damn!!! I was clearly having a drunken stupor moment ... I have absolutely seen red rear turn indicators and just passed many of them on the way back from picking up our kids. For some reason in my head I was thinking front amber signals but in the back. Man... Sorry Fish! i'll be in the back of the room if anyone needs me.