normcloutier

Slick56, I started a post on this as well. I have. 13 edge and started getting the AC stink this winter. Mine seems to only do it when outside temp is around the freezing mark. I have my system set to windshield and floor. Even if I select floor only, it still smells. What temp are you experiencing the problem at? What setting do you use?

So if I have blend selected (floor and windshield) and the temp set to HI, why is the AC coming on at all? Lowering the temp to around or below cabin temp would make it come on to cool the interior or if I selected defrost It would come on to help clear the windshield but why would it come on when I am trying to heat the vehicle?

I had roof rack installed at factory mostly because I like the look. I added the cross bars myself. Will probably never put anything on the roof unless I find a canoe in the ditch.

I never use the auto setting. Winter time heat airflow is directed to floor and windshield. Summertime is always vents with AC as required depending on outside temp. I thought the AC came on when defrost is selected. Either when pressing the defrost button or having the windshield area selected for air flow. Is this not the case?

I never had this issue last winter and it's very annoying. Not sure why it's doing it this winter. Whenever the outside temp is around the freezing mark, I get AC smell in my Edge. It's like the AC compressor is cycling on and off. This happens even when I have the heating set to floor only which shouldn't be activating the AC at all. If it's below -10, there is no smell. At that temp, I would have the heat set to floor and windshield. Any comments?

That's why I didn't go for leather. Even with heated leather seats, -40 is still -40 when you get in.

My 13 SEL with cloth only has 2 settings. The settings are can't feel it and too hot. Wish there were 3.

I am looking for the other half of the connector that a fuse plugs into in the battery junction box fuse panel. It would be the side of the fuse that goes to the device. There are unused connectors that energize with ignition and I currently just have a fuse tap plugged into one of them for my DRL power. i would like to install the other side of the fuse holder and connect the power wire from inside the fuse box. I want an actual fuse plugged in for that circuit. Does anyone know if you can buy these? It's the location at the end of the arrow in the picture.

I found an actual photo from an Edge on the Canadian site. Exactly what I am looking for. I believe the local Part Source store carries them. I'll be ordering a set tomorrow. Just wish I hadn't wasted my money on the Ford ones.

I have a 2013 SEL with Ford floor mats. The drivers side mat has a slit in the top for where the left footrest area drops down to the brake pedal area. This area always allows water and mud to get down to the carpet. I also dislike that the sides of my shoes dirty the carpet on the bottom of the centre console. Does anyone have a picture of a weathertech mat installed? I believe there is no slit in the top and that they come up the side a bit. Before spending $150 for the front pair, I would like to see one installed.

Is the vehicle actually starting or is it just the parking lights coming on? You have to press the lock button once and then press the start button twice to activate remote start. My guess is she may only be locking the doors and not actually starting the engine. When the parking lights go off, she thinks the vehicle has shut off.

Here is a picture of what I trimmed off the tabs in order to rotate the bulb one tab clockwise. The area in black (upper part of top tab and top corner of right tab) is what I cut off. Putting the bulb in is a bit tricky. You have to put 2 tabs in first (the 5:00 and 10:00 tabs) and then turn a little before the third tab (2:00) will pop into it's hole. You can then twist the base all the way in. Also, make sure your return wire is not bent. That could be why your shadows are a bit different.

I have a 2013 SEL that went in for 20k service. My average DTE prior to the 20k service was around 450km. After service, it was 600km. My DTE also increased after the 10k service. What is happening when the dealer connects to the vehicle that changes the DTE?

Do you mean the return wire shadow at the 8:00 position? I can show you what I trimmed off the 9012/HIR2 bulb base in order to rotate it one tab.

I have front turn signals as DRL so I needed to tie into the rear turn signal circuits for the amber switchback feature of the EDGE2. I didn't want to run wires through the firewall so I investigated other options. Well I have some good news and some bad news. The good news is that the amber trigger for the EDGE2 can be connected to the trailer tow wire relays in the engine compartment. The bad news is that the trailer tow wiring/relays use turn and stop as one lamp. Turn signals activate the EDGE2 amber switchback perfectly. So does applying brakes. FUG. I only tested turn circuits before starting the wirning. Did not test stop function. After a whole weekend of fancy braided split loom wiring and internal fuse box connections, I was quite proud of my EDGE2 install. Pulled up to a store front window on the way home and couldn't figure out why my DRL's were amber. Put the vehicle into park and released the brake and amber turned to white. OMG. What a stupid mistake. Looks like it's some more wiring investigation in the engine compartment or some wires through the firewall. There are separate turn signal relays but they are also somehow interconnected with a single stop relay.

Here are some pics of my HID install.

Well you can't rotate the holder so I ended up trimming the tabs. Real easy to see how much to trim because I had the headlight assemblies on my bench. Ended up rotating the bulb one tab clockwise which put the return wire shadow at 12:00 which is not noticeable. I'll post some pre/post shadow pics in the morning. Quite the difference.

I should have been more clear. I installed a HID kit and the return wires are causing shadows at the 8:00 position. My reference to 9012/HIR2 was simply to state that the base of the bulb is the same as an OEM bulb. Candurin, the 9012/HIR2 bulb has 3 different size tabs. I can't turn the bulb, it will only fit one way.

Does anyone know if you can unscrew and rotate the part of the assembly that the bulb twists into? I had the headlights out today but didn't look. I have return wire shadows on my 9012/HIR2 bulbs. If I could rotate the holder, I could put the shadows at the top.

I need to pull the battery to access the firewall. Any thing I need to concern myself with? What system settings will be lost?

How do you pull the small relays in the engine fuse box like number 37 or 53? There is no room to grab them with channel locks. Tried a pair of needle nose pliers but that doesn't work. Just cracks the plastic.

Took the front bumper cover off today to remove headlight assemblies. It was way easier than I thought. Easily done in less than 15 minutes by myself. A couple things to note. I removed the 3 pin type retaining clips on the bottom instead of all the screws. Also, keep one of the 2 bolts on the top in place until you are ready to remove the bumper cover otherwise it could fall off.

Looking to buy a set of rear cap covers for the headlight assemblies on a 13 SEL. I installed HID and put the grommets in the caps. Just want to buy a set in case I revert back to halogen. Any current ebay links?

I wish there was an option to turn the AC off when using defrost or at least when floor/defrost is selected. Not much humidity when it's -30 out. Waste of fuel to run the AC compressor all winter.

Not true at all about switching the DRL function from headlights to front turn signals. IT IS possible and I had it done. It's in the exterior lighting section of the Ford IDS software. My dealer was willing to do it. What is the issue you are having with your HID's? Are they not firing or you just don't want them on 24/7? The headlights operate at a lower voltage during the day when they are on as DRL. Approximately 10 volts. If you are connected directly to the ballast with stock wiring and your HID's are not firing, the voltage may be too low. Do they fire properly if you switch your headlights on? If so, you would be best to connect the ballasts directly to battery through a relay. When the DRL's turn on, the relay fires and gives the ballasts 13.5 VDC all the time.