normcloutier

I have a 13 SEL. 50k on it. I have been chasing a door rattle off and on for 18 months. It all started 2 years ago when the door sensor was changed. I had it back into the shop a half dozen times to try and have it fixed and about 6 months ago, dealer finally had most of the rattle gone but not all of it. I decided to turn up the radio instead of trying to fix it further. The small rattle kept getting worse and worse. Used to be just when driving on certain road surfaces but lately it's been rattling on every road except brand new pavement. Had it into the dealer on Thursday for another round of repair. After a whole day and double team techs, they traced it down to the outer belt mouldings on the door. I didn't know what those were but they are the outer window moulding at the top of the door panel. Both sides rattle. Dealer went to the extended warranty company for repair coverage but they won't cover it since it's trim. 2 years Ford? That's how long your mouldings last? Service writer has NEVER heard of this happening at 50k. Am I the lone lemon holder for this issue or does anyone else have this problem?

2013. I figured it out. Simply pry the back of the cover toward the rear of vehicle and down with your fingers.

I can't remember how I removed the cover for the rear passenger dome light. I know there is a tab of some sort at the rear of the light but with the slope of the headliner, I can't get a screwdriver in there. Any tips on how to remove the cover?

This ugly monkey has reappeared again. When using sync for voice commands, the system will switch to Bluetooth audio when finished. This was fixed in 9.3.1 but it's back in 9.3.2. I just upgraded my phone from 5S to 5SE. I don't think that should matter. Could be coincidence. Anyone else having issues again?

Same feeling here. My 13 SEL has been in the shop for non scheduled repairs more in 3 years than my Honda CR-V was in 15 years. Bought the Edge primarily because I liked the look. And be honest, who wouldn't think a test drive in a brand new vehicle would be better than a 97 Honda. Should have test drove a few more options I guess. Wouldn't buy another.

Make sure the AC button and recirculate are off. Select VENT as the air source and turn temperature all the way down.

Here are some pics of my install. The black sharpie shaded areas shown on the tabs of the OEM bulb are what need to be trimmed in order to be able to rotate the bulb and have it seat properly. If you installed the HID bulbs in the default position, you probably have shadows.

I have some great pics of the back of the housings with HID installed. Also have a pic of what needs to be trimmed on the tab in order to rotate the lamp. I will post those tomorrow.

Are you just leaving the rest of the silencer off? I know it has no use once the ports are blocked but doesn't it look odd under the hood with it missing? Would be nice to somehow block the ports from the inside of the tube and be able to pop the silencer back into place.

I have a13 SEL and luckily don't have swirl marks yet. What causes them? Dirty wash water? I always power wash first then use 2 buckets to hand wash (one soapy and one to rinse mitt)

I've been using the same fob for 3 years. Probably use it at least 10 times a day. More in winter with remote start.

There is technically no low beam/hi beam. There is a mechanical shutter that cuts off the top of the beam for low. When you active thigh beam, the shutter moves and lets all the light shine through. You can hear the shutter when changing between the two.

Anyone in Canada want a free A4 card? Send me your address and I'll mail it to you.

I ran the wire into the fuse box and added another outbound point. That's what the 3 amp fuse is plugged into. Nice and neat.

Here are some from a 2013. 2013 Ford Edge BJB.pdf

So it's been a month since Ford re-flashed the PCM and what a difference. The throttle response and performance has greatly improved even in normal D mode. It felt like I was always pulling a small trailer. Always having to depress the accelerator really far to get any acceleration or to downshift. I always suspected something since I had driven a loaner edge when mine was in the shop and could tell the difference. Someone said it was because I had the 20" wheels on a SEL model. Didn't understand what difference that would make. The 18's and 20's are the same circumference. Regardless, if you have an edge with this issue, get it fixed. Well worth it. Too bad I spent 3 years driving it before doing something about it.

I found the service order for this repair. Here is what is written in it. "Performed clear keep alive memory (KAM), clear adaptive learning information. Performed solenoid body strategy drive cycle. Reprogrammed PCM". This fixed the issue whatever the origin of it was.

The adjustable beam looks interesting. You can rotate the bulb.

Sorry, yes they did reset/reflash something. Service did mention that if it locked onto selective shift again to try disconnecting battery to reset it. I have had the battery previously disconnected a few times and that never brought back sport mode which makes me think it never worked from day 1. Regardless, if you have a 13/14 Edge and your Sport mode doesn't work, have it looked at. Lots of fun to drive now.

So here is what I was told. The transmission has adaptive learning and will develop a shift pattern according to your driving. Since I didn't even know I had Sport mode in my SEL when I took delivery (I thought it was only available on Sport model), I instantly started using selective shift and always used selective shift never letting the tranny shift in Sport mode. After time, the adaptive learning thinks I only want to use selective shift and actually disabled Sport mode. When I would shift into Sport mode, the S and gear number would appear beside the tach signalling that the tranny was in selective shift mode even though I hadn't touched the thumb selector. Now, I don't know if it was like that from the beginning as I didn't really notice. I took delivery in May 2013 so I had an early year build. It may have came that way and Sport mode never worked from day 1. The dealer had to reset the adaptive learning and now Sport mode works. It will stay in Sport mode until I shift to drive or use the selective shift lever. Once you move to selective shift, it will stay in that mode until you shift out. I was also told that if I only ever used selective shift, that the Sport mode would probably disable itself again over time. But with the increased throttle response and acceleration, that isn't going to happen.

Woo Hoo. I have Sport shift mode now. Good thing gas is 68 cents a litre. I'll be burning it up.

There is no hi beam/low beam. It's a single lamp with a shutter that cuts off the top of the light for low beam. Activating high beam just moves the shutter so the light shines higher..

Bump. Hey everyone. I'm booked in for some service in the morning but no one has replied whether their Canadian 13/14 SEL will shift automatically while in sport mode. I can't own the only 2013 SEL AWD in Canada? C'mon, can someone help me out?

What PCM calibration are you referring to? What problem does it resolve?

I wasn't having any luck with replies in the other post so I thought I would start fresh. I am looking for confirmation that the transmission will automatically shift while in Sport mode without using the selective shift button. I have an early 2013 build which apparently has issues with Sport mode (won't shift). I spoke to a nice gentleman at Ford Canada. He ran the VIN and said my vehicle is equipped with Sport mode. I just want a bit more ammo when going to the dealer. Can anyone confirm it shifts automatically while in Sport mode?