sprsnake_wishin

Thats a genious idea with the aluminum foil! Ye old heat shield, awesome thanks for the suggestion. I have ordered L.E.D bulbs and resistors (for the turn signal wire) already though so I will explore that route. Depending on brightness of the bulbs I ordered I may go back to the standard halogens so I will keep the aluminum foil trick in mind

Sorry to beat this thread to death and no one is probably going to check into it now as it has been quite some time since anything was last posted. Surprise Surprise I have also been having this recurring issue on our 2007 Edge. I am due to replace the sockets now as they have been pretty badly melted. Anyways this is just a suggestion but could you do an L.E.D light bulb retrofit? They must make a L.E.D bulb for the 3157? or whatever style plug it is. Significantly less heat build up in an L.E.D bulb as opposed to normal halogen ones. I see the bulbs listed online for sale all over the place, I just don't know if they would work with the turn lamps or not....Anyone else savy on that end of it? I put L.E.D bulbs in place for my reverse lights and they work great, far brighter too. Not saying that this WILL work but just a suggestion to look into. Swapping out for a $15 bulb is loads cheaper than having to have your sockets replaced every so often by an expensive shop if you don't know how to do it yourself. I am going to try this route as soon as I replace my sockets here soon and I'll let you know how it goes.

Ha its called winter. All season tires are no substitution for winter tires.

For some extra peace of mind, the first thing that has a tendency to bend or distort are your rims. They would be the first part to go on a big impact like that, I strongly doubt you have caused any serious damage in any other components, frame especially. If you notice your steering wheel shuddering at high speeds from now on you probably have in fact bent a rim but thats the first part of the car that would take damage

I recently converted all the interior light in our 07 to LED's looks great and was very happy. Things were normal to start with, lights operated as normal. I noticed the other day though that as you are driving the interior lights stay on, very very dim, but they stay on. I checked the switch for the interior lights and that's not the issue. Here's the really bizarre part, if I take one of the LED map lightbulbs out and put back in one of the old ones, all the lights work as normal again it's only if ALL the interior lights are LED that they stay on dim....I am kind of baffled by this and wondering if anyone electrically inclined has an answer to my problem.

I'm not a sport model owner and don't have a real issue with our edge vibrating as you have described. I have had the exact same problem with a previous vehicle and it ended up being a bent rim. Which is not as hard to do as you may think, especially with the larger 22" rims the sport comes stock with. I'm not saying that this is the issue but having the vibration happen at only a high speed above a certain range was exactly what I had happen. It could be one more thing to check out, they should technically have caught it if they did try to balance the wheels but hey its worth a shot

yikes, that seems a touch extreme to me. I doubt very much is a valve issue, doesn't seem to be what would cause it to my line of reasoning. At any rate 2200 dollars is more than just a little ridiculous to see if that fixes the problem.

You can black out your Ford with the plasti dip too, here are some before and afters of what I did to our 07. (use your imagination for the blue logo) Its a bit time consuming to cut around the ford chrome lettering but worthwhile, it has held on very well and not peeled off yet in 2 months. I used a small exacto knife with a very sharp blade. If it doesnt suit your taste in the end, hey you can peel it off right.

There is a plastic ridge fin that runs lengthwise in the air filter box. Did you make sure that the fins on the filter are running the same way? Otherwise you will have one hell of a time fitting it in. Just turn the filter 90 degrees and that plastic fin will slide into one of the grooves on the filter to keep it from sliding around

That looks sweet in my opinion. gives me an idea or two as well. What about painting the metal bezel around the radio to a satin or flat black? All depends on which way your going with your interior though, I really just want to know how the heck to get that metal bezel off so I can tackle mine, has a dent in it that needs to be fixed. Ya I second the previous question, how are you going about the ambient lighting install? Curious to know

Hi does anyone know how to or if it's possible to remove the large metal trim piece that surrounds the radio console on the dash?

Just did this to my 07. Was looking to buy a black emblem from ebay but they want like 60 bucks for one. kinda crazy. Plasti dipped it and knifed it out

Warped rotars. You can get them machined, have to find a shop that will do it. They call it getting your rotars "turned." All they do it machine the face to take out warped brake surface. Problem is, the more you get your rotars turned down the easier they will warp again in the future because there will be less and less metal there to withstand the heat build up. In my experience I found brand new parts for about the same price so I just went that route. I am very happy with the performance of my brakes now, they brake about the same as factory pads and rotars but I for sure feel a lot more responsiveness when you first step on the pedal having the drilled rotars, they grab more. Just make a ton of brake dust, you can get low dust brake pads too though.

My front pads were fine, it was the rear pads on the inside that went first. The piston side of your brake pads will always go first. Mine were replaced at 76,000 kms so if you have half a pad left it's fine to leave it for another 10 - 15,000 kms for sure. The dealership I bought mine used at did not check the brakes and all the test drives they did with it wore grooves into the rotars because the rear pads were worn through the rivets. Used it as fuel to get a wicked deal on the edge though

Oh nice, anyone with experience on a newer vehicle will be able to help. I can't remember what I paid off hand, I am pretty sure it was around the $400 mark after taxes though, that was for a kit including pads and rotars for all 4 corners. I bought mine on ebay canada to save shipping and duty fees. If your close to the border it may be worth buying them from the states and going to get them. I went with aftermarket drilled rotars because I wanted to help the looks a little. Have had no problems with them at all but they make a pile of brake dust for sure, I call them the cheese graters haha. If you can find a name brand kit for OEM replacement that's a reasonable price I would go with that myself if I had to do it again. A few tips: -Don't worry about the weird smelliness for the first couple days after you put on brand new rotars, it's just breaking in the new pads and the heat build up will cook of some of the oils and paint from the manufacturing process. -Make sure you clean the wear surfaces of the new rotars too with brake clean when you install them so they seat really well right away. -When you have installed the brakes and you have the tires back on and your ready to go, before you drive anywhere pump your brake pedal a few times to make sure there is no gap between your brake pads and the rotars. This will take it back to it's regular operating. Make sure you brake fluid level is sufficient before you do this,if you lost any amount of brake fluid in the process of replacing, now would be the time to top up your resevoir so you don't get any air in your brake lines when you pump the brake pedal. Too many people forget to do this when they do their own brakes and they wonder why they can't stop on the test drive. Very important to remember. ***One big tip to give you is that you will have to compress your brake piston to make room for the newer pads that will be thicker of course. Thats if your planning on buying new pads, if you are you can use a long flathead screwdriver or any other suitable pry bar.If you are replacing your old brake pads with new ones, you can pry right on the brake pad surface, it will dig in and damage it but it's ok if your throwing them out anyways. If your planning on reusing them, then I would suggest a larger style C- clamp or something that wont damage it. You do not have to loosen any bleed valve or anything, the brake fluid will run back into your brake fluid resevoir. Keep an eye on the level so it does not overflow. If it does, no big deal just make sure to wash the area off thoroughly with water when your cleaning up to get rid of the spilled fluid. It will damage your paint in the engine bay.*** That's about the main things to remember that I seem to recall. Don't be overwhelmed though, it's an easy process, can seem daunting if your unfamiliar with it but it's really not when you look back on it, especially if you get that guy to help you.

Van G, I just re did the rotars and brake pads on my 07 edge. Piece of cake to do by yourself, ignore the knuckle bashing and cursing comments, that's only if your using the wrong tools. You can expect it to take you about 1.5 to 2 hours to do though because of just being unfamiliar with it, that's about what it took me. Trust me though once you get into it it's a very straightforward process. If you have the time to wait ebay is the way to go for parts. I ordered rotars and pads for the same price that the local shop wanted for just pads on all four wheels. Getting the rotars off is EASY, there are two larger bolts on the backside of the front rotars that secure them to the mount for the strut assembly. 2 bolts to take out and the rotar pulls off and new one goes on. The key to these bolts is just having a long enough breaker bar to get them loose, if your trying them with a regular old ratchet they will be a curser for sure. Just use the breaker bar to get them loose and give them a final snug too with some lock-tite on the bolt. All the newer brakes are essentially the same, YOUTUBE is a great source for a detailed view of how to do it. I could write it out for you but it's easier to see it in action. Hope this helps, I would not hesitate to do them yourself, you will save at least 400 - 500 dollars.

Wow sorry to take so long to get back to you. No, not so much. So long as you get a decent brake pad that has reduced dust. I haven't noticed anything excessive with mine so far.

I did a rotor upgrade to mine. Well I bought my 07 used and the rotars were shot so I did what any sensible person would do. Put the same amount of money into parts that fix the problem and make your vehicle look a little nicer. As quite a nice surprise I found that I had added brake responsiveness too, they grab a little harder right at the start. Unfortunately the black surface wears down to a polished chrome look like regular rotars do. I bought these ones off ebay came with brake pads and overall were the same price as buying OEM replacements from the local auto parts store.

I would go with the American Racing. I love the look of 5 spoke, I forgot about those rims I was looking at them last year too. Holy Dam those look nice! I am currently ordering a set of 22's also. Well in the process of trying to decide what to get, I love the look of black and chrome together though. A couple of questions for you though. What size of rubber are you 22's and what's your rim width if you don't mind me asking? These are the ones I'm currently wanting. I'm a sucker for more of the simplistic 5 spoke myself.