dckotwicki

Just took delivery on a 2010 Edge Limited. Turned in an'07 Edge SEL. I am noticing vibration in the steering wheel while the vehicle is in gear and stopped. Once the car is moving I do not notice it. The vehicle only has 50 miles on it, but I never noticed this in my '07 Edge. Any one experience this???

Just took delivery on a 2010 Edge Limited. Turned in an'07 Edge SEL. I am noticing vibration in the steering wheel while the vehicle is in gear and stopped. Once the car is moving I do not notice it. The vehicle only has 50 miles on it, but I never noticed this in my '07 Edge. Any one experience this???

I picked up the car today. Planetary gear failure along with some supporting parts, gaskets and seal. The vehicle still has a slight amount of "Slack" in the transmission at low speed. This occurs when you are, for example, stopped, then begin creeping forward with traffic. No foot on the brake and no foot on the accelerator... both engine and transmission are seemingly "Unloaded". Then when traffic speed picks up and you nudge the gas pedal, it feels like the transmission forgets it is in gear and then all of a sudden pops back into gear resulting in what feels like a "bump" caused by a re-engagement of the trans. Almost feels like someone bumped into the rear end. Anyone experience anything like this?

2007 Edge SEL w/21K miles I was coming home with my wife yesterday. About 2 miles from home while merging into traffic, the transmision acted as if it downshifted all the way to first and then would not upshift. It also periodicly acted as if it were in neutral. The "Open-end wrench" idiot light appeared on the dash followed by the "Engine" idiot light. We got the vehicle home, but it does not seem to be drivable and will be into the dealer Monday moring sharp. Anyone experience anything like this???

I thought you might work at a dealership. In response to the "On vehicle rotor turning"; I didn't say it did not exhist, just that I hadn't heard of it. (My "Snipyness" was in large part do to you comment about my being "Wrong" on the "Warped" issue, for that, I appologize) In response to the "Replacing rotors and pads" comment; What I meant to say is that it is the best fix for the customer. The reality is that it will likely come back regardless of what you do. Reason: There are other things going on in the design that will make the issue come back (Bad design). It is difficult to overcome bad design. Ultimately, if I have this issue on my vehicle, I would want everything replaced... Caliper, anchor ect. It is not likely that the dealer will authorize that. If they do where you work, tell me where that is and I will go there. I own a Focus also and have recently had this issue with it and had the same conversation with the manager of the service department. They turned the rotor and as soon as I left the dealership I could tell the vehicle was improved, but also could tell the issue would be back (I could still feel it very subtly durring brake apply). I also work with friction specialists and it was recomended to me to replace the rotors with OEM rotors (better material) and replace the pads with NAO. I didn't know what NAO meant either but was told to install Akebono brand ceramic pads (Apparently NAO = Ceramic). Reason given was that they would not be as "Harsh" to the rotor and thus reduce the DTV effect. When I mentioned the dealer only turned the rotors to the engineers in my group they all agreed that rotors and pads should have been replaced. Simply turning the rotor then reinstalling the old "groove worn / tapered" (tapered means the friction surface is no longer parallel to the backing plate) pads are just not gonna get it done. It may get the customer out the door until the warranty expires, but the bottom line is likely that you will, in the end have and unhappy customer. Unhappy customers generally go somewhere else next time. When we have issues like this as work during test, sometimes everything gets replaced, rotors, pads, calipers, guide pins, anchors , then the failed components get inspected. The term "Warped" probably comes from earlier days when the ability to measure and analyze components was more limited. Rotors will warp from heat, this sometimes happens during vehicle test in death valley, in most cases when the rotor cools, it returns to something close to its original shape. As for what I do, I am the supervisor in the metrology lab. Metrology is a fancy term for inspection. I measure this stuff all day, every day with high end equipment. Before I went to school for this, I was a journeyman machinist. If you have a micrometer in your tool box at work you can verify the DTV issue. Simply measure the thickness of the friction surface on a complaint rotor, maybe 24 places equally spaced. You will find variation in your results. That variation is Disc Thickness Variation. In my experience DTV is the issue 100% of the time. DTV is the biggest battle brake manufacturers fight, other than cost. It is what the customer feels when they put their foot on the brake. Good luck. I am cheering for Ford to succeed.

I appologize, machining rotors on the vehicle will probably not produce runout. However, I am confused about exactly how you would machine a rotor with the wheel still on the vehicle. Seems to me it would get in the way. I am sure there is a way and I am sure you will tell me. I would like to see it a brake shop or at a Ford dealer. What you are likely going to see is the standard turning machine for rotors. Those machines tend to machine runout into the rotor when re-surfacing. I have measured rotors after turning and found the runout to be over 10 times the OEM spec of 20 microns. When you re-install a rotor with that kind of wobble in it, it is only a matter of time before the problem returns. I work for a major brake supplier in an R&D facility and have a (NIST traceable) machine who's original cost was approximately $125K and who's sole purpose is to measure thickness variation in brake rotors that cause pedal pulsation, but I am probably wrong and you are probably correct. To be sure, pedal pulsation is caused by brake Disc Thickness Variation (DTV) DTV is a term used by the industry. Dealers will generally resist the replacement of rotors and pads. If you ask a brake systems test engineer, you will be told to replace everything.

What you have is not a warped rotor. You have a condition that can be called DTV (Disk Thickness Variation). When the brakes are applied, they squeeze the rotor to stop the vehicle. When the brakes are released, the release of pressure on the caliper piston the the greased guide pins are supposed to creat a condition in which the friction pads are "knocked" away from the rotor. The fact that you are feeling brake judder (the pulsing of the brake pedal) means that when the brakes are released the pads are not backing away from the rotor. When they do not back away, the rotor knicks / brushes against the rotor ever revolution of the wheel. This is a slow process, but what happens over time is that the friction pads actually "Machine" material away from the rotor in the same location and, over time, the thickness of the brake disk changes and that change of thickness is then transmitted to the brake pedal in the form of "Judder" or "Pulsation" when the brakes are applied. I know this because inspection of these components is what I do for a living. If your vehicle is under warranty they should fix it. The ONLY proper fix it to replace both the rotors and pads with new. (The dealer willl probably offer to re-machine the rotors. The problem with this approach is that when the rotors are remachined, the result is that there is now runnout (wobble) on the friction surface. This means that it is only a matter of time before the problem returns, this time it likely will be out of warranty.) They should also inspect the calipers and guide pins for both proper movement and lubrication. If anyone tells you that this is NORMAL WEAR, they are simply mis-informed (That includes the dealership).

I was shocked to discover them too. I work for an automotive supplier and was told that "Chrome on plastic" holds up better than "Chrome on aluminum". This same engineer told me that his Hemi Jeep has the same thing (Chrome on plastic). Side note: My Edge is an '07 and at 5K miles the rims began to show corosion. Not on the plastic, but where the "Chrome clad plastic" meets to painted rim (where the wheel balancing weights are placed). I took it to the dealer and the "write up guy" blew me off telling me that I just had to CLEAN them. I asked "Clean them with what?". He sent me to the parts counter and the parts guy had no idea what I should use. I then got my salesman who brought a can of "Cleaner" with him. He attempted to lean them and discovered they were actually corroded.... I said "Ughhh... Duuu...". The wheels were replaced under warranty. It is my expectation that they will do the same thing this winter as well. If they fail 3 times I will look into the lemon law specifics and ask them to buy the vehicle back, I bet that will get their attention! The '08 Edge has a different rim that covers the area in question. That means it is likely a known issue that was resolved in the '08 model by simply covering it up.

I own a 2007 Edge FWD. It now has about 8,250 Miles on it. I use Mobil One 5/20 synthetic oil. Early on I was very dissapointed in the fuel economy. My wife drives less than 3 mile each way to work in stop n go traffic and the mileage was around 13-14 MPG. My initial thought was... Oh my God, what have I done! I have noticed recent improvements with more miles on the vehicle. My wife and I recently took a couple day holiday from the east side of Michigan to the west side. I used this as an opportunity to really look at the fuel economy. On the way there we encountered heavy rush hour traffic on I-96, sometimes coming to a complete stop. Approximately 25% of the 200 miles was heavy traffic. Once rolling, I set the cruise at 68 MPH. We ended up getting 23.5 MPG. The next day, with driving around Saugatuck, MI and the surrounding area the mileage dropped to 22.5 MPG. On the way back, I reset the mileage indicator and with better flowing traffic got 26.0 MPG. This included 3 excursions off the freeway. Again, the cruise control was set between 65 and 70 MPH. Conclusion... If you are a heavy footed driver, you can get stinky mileage. If you drive in a manner to try to get better MPG, your mileage will improve. It is my guess if you were to take this vehicle on a cross country trip and use the cruise control AND drive as if gasoline IS expensive 26 to 28 MPG is possible.

I have an 07 edge. Initially ( 0 - 6000 miles) the vehicle got poor MPG in town (13-14 mpg city). It now has about 7600 miles on it and I am noticing improved mpg (15-17 mpg city) It does better on the freeway (21 - 23 mpg) My opinion... the engine is a fairly hi output, therefore, if you lean into the accelerator, the mpg drops. If you drive more patiently, your mileage will improve. 4000lb + 265 hp = not so good mpg

I am using 5-20 Mobil 1 synthetic oil. I am replacing the oil filter each oil change. The engine "Ticks" the next day after the oil is changed. The oil level is full. I am also not in love with 5-20 oil. I am using it but would feel better with 5-30. I think 5-20's only purpose is to enhance cafe standards.

I have an 07 Edge with about 7700 miles on it. The oil and filter have been changed 2 times. 1st at about 1600 miles 2nd an about 6500 miles Ford filter and mobil one 0-20 synthetic At start up, and for about 2 minutes there is a disturbing ticking sound. Easily heard inside the vehicle Easily heard outside the vehicle. After 2 minutes, it goes away. Anyone else have this issue?

Mine is like that too. If the dealer is telling you they haven't seen it before, my guess is that they aren't being 100% honest.

If the rotors are blue / black... that means that the calipers are not releasing. Drive the vehicle and check for excessive heat. DON'T touch the rotor, might burn your hand. They should replace the caliper assembly, rotor and maybe the knuckle if the bearing is damaged. I had this issue years ago on the GM and they replaced the rotor and caliper. Under waranty.

If a car wash scratched your car. The car wash fixes your car. I received some small scratches on the top of the back bumper from my local car wash. I immeadiately showed the scratches to them and was given approval to take the vehicle to a body shop that they use. The scratches were small enough that I decided to "Live with it". Didn't want to risk a paint job that might look worse than a small scratch. Please note... Car washes are responsible for what they do.