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Chipworkz is on the right track. However, a customer of mine gave me a nice method he discovered when he was replacing his stock tails with my new LED tails. He used a piece of wood 2X4 and cut it into a wedge shape. He then covered it with a piece of cloth. He stuck the point of the wedge into the gap between the lens and the body and twisted. He moved the wedge up and down the forward edge of the tail like Chipworkz shows and it easily works loose. With it being made of wood, the chances of scratching the lens is mitigated.

Thanks for the nice write up on our HID kit, Chris. I am glad you are enjoying your new HID kit. Our EDGE-2v3 DRLs are looking SWEET too!!! I told you that you would you the HID / DRL combo would look awesome. Really makes the front end POP, both day and night, doesn't it.

I don't see any reference to any LED DRL Lighting on the new Edge. Anyone have any recent info on whether any of the trim levels on the new model will have these as an option? If not, it's time for me to start on a new design. :-)

Hi Moogle, Definitely sounds like a blown fuse. I have attached a copy of the fuse box layout for your Edge. Try checking fuse number 12. It protects the interior lighting circuit which should include the cargo and dome lamps. Feel free to send me an email at info@DAYTIMEBrightLites.com if you have any questions. I don't get on the forum very often, but do check my email regularly.

Thanks for the safety tip Gregg. Never thought about that. The wife would not be too pleased with me If I ruined the ring or my finger.

Glad the install went well. Love your idea of going from the engine compartment. Unfortunately my shorter arms and fingers wouldn't allow for that. So happy you and your wife are enjoying the new DRLs. I just uploaded an unlisted and unedited YouTube installation video I took yesterday. I didn't want to delay getting it up until I edited out the dog barks and bloopers. It's about 22 minutes long, so get out your popcorn :-).

Yes, my HID kit works perfectly with the auto-on headlight setting. There are no "false starts" (one or both HID bulbs won't start when engine is turned on). There is also no bulb flicker. I had my HID kit manufacturer make a kit specifically designed to eliminate all of the common problems normally associated. I had components added the electronic ballasts that are not usually found on universal kits. Sorry, just read your post. Hope I'm not too late. I stock all of the common bulb sizes (9005, 9006, 9012, H8, H9, H11). We offer them in 5000K & 6000K. We are choosing not to carry the warmer white 4300K colors because the trend in newer cars is a cooler OEM headlight color in the 5000K range. Especially in the new LED only OEM headlights (ie: Acura).

You need to connect it to the center turn wire. Connecting our courtesy wire to the blinker wire will only make the DRLs blink on and off with the blinker. PLEASE, ONLY CONNECT THE WIRE AS INSTRUCTED! Thanks. Dan

Just an FYI, I just finished adding a new product to our www.DriveBright.com web store. It's a new 35W HID Kit. Check it out. I'll be posting a new thread announcing them in the next few days. It is an excellent kit and works perfectly on the Edge (no flicker or false starts) GUARANTEED. Lifetime warranty as well. Here's the link: http://drivebright.com/home/shop/hid-headlight-replacement-kit-new/

Sorry for taking so long to chime in on this. Can't seem to find the time to check out the forum as much as I had in the past. As mentioned, we have experienced some moisture issues with the first version. We narrowed it down to two areas. One was the plug opening in the back of the DRL and the other was the lens seal. The new version now has an integrated wire harness and plug that now powers and controls the DRL operation and eliminates the plug connection. The lens seal leak was being caused by the housing material being too flexible in relation to the rigid clear lens material. The housing would flex with heat and stress, but the lens would not. Over time the flexing could cause a gap to open and possibly allow water to enter under the lens. We now make the housing out of a more rigid material eliminating the flexing and curing the leaking issue. We have had these new versions out in the field for about 6 months now and have not had a single water leak. I can't thank you all enough for helping me troubleshoot these issues. I am totally amazed at how eager you all were to help me work this all out. I count myself lucky to have such wonderful people to work with and consider many of you as friends. As many of you understand, there can be some growing pains when developing a new product. But with the invaluable information and help you all provided me, we now have a very reliable and even better performing product for our Ford Edge. As many of you have stated, I do stand by my products. I was always taught that you treat others as you would want them to treat you and that carries over into my business. If something's not right, you can damn well be sure I will do everything possible to make it right.

I had the same propane smell in a 2005 Suburban we once owned. Took it in twice while under warranty, but the dealer never figured out what was causing it. About 16,000 miles after the warranty expired, we were pulling a 28' camper over one of the continental divides in the Rockies and on the way down the rear end developed a funky humming sound. We stopped at the closest GM dealer and when he opened the rear differential cover, the garage filled with the worst smell of propane. The gears had ground themselves down to a slurry of metal shavings. They had to put in a new rear end. The repair was covered under warranty since there was documentation of the two earlier dealer visits about the propane smell. THANK GOD! Be sure they open the covers and check the drive train thoroughly.

Hi Rusty, the DRLs will function as fully automatic DRLs as they currently do. (engine on / DRLs on, engine off / DRLs off). (Note: we made a mistake on the original pricing. Should have been $15.50 instead of $19.50. I have 23 adapters in stock and can ship right away.

A multi layer spray coating with a professional tint finish and quality clear coat is best method and will last the longest. I don't mean using the tint out of the can. Unless you have your own paint spray equipment and are very good applying even coats, you will want to have a paint shop do it for you. Prepping the lights is the most important step and two coats of quality clear coat at the end is too. We use a great paint shop to have the smoke tint applied to our SPORT LED Taillights. Film will become scuffed and hazy over time due to washing and UV.

It looks like the issue CMOS was having with the brake lights dimly flashing on and off with the turn signals, is being caused by a miswired towing wire harness that was installed a couple years back. Our LED tail light wiring (brake light and parking/position) is totally isolated from the turn signal circuit, so there is no way for the power from the turn signals to bleed into our wiring unless the stock wiring is faulty. Having both taillights experiencing the brake light flashing is also a clue that there is something weird going on with the vehicle power feeding the LED tails.

We now offer a Courtesy Light adapter wire for the EDGE-2 DRLs. This allows our DRL kits to perform the same way as the stock accent lights did. Click on the picture of our webpage below to go right to it. Instructions are just below that. We recommend only using our harness. Damage to the kit due to improper wiring will void the warranty.

We now offer a Courtesy Light adapter wire for the EDGE-2 DRLs. This allows our DRL kits to perform the same way as the stock accent lights did. Click on the picture of our webpage below to go right to it. Instructions are just below that. We recommend only using our harness. Damage to the kit due to improper wiring will void the warranty.

Hey Travis, the OEM lights you are wanting to use as DRLs are not designed to be used in the daytime. The light output is too low for them to be seen in sunlight. Ford designed them to be used at night as an accent Light. This is why these accent lights are activated by the headlight switch. Only an aftermarket product specifically designed as a DRL will perform this function.