fishx65

My 2011 (100,000 miles) has a loud clicking noise when turning right at slow speeds. I'm thinking strut bearing. Is the sound coming from the spring rotating in it's seat or the bearing itself? Any quick fixes with a can of lube or does it have to be replaced?

I'll give you $2000.00 for it. Let me know where to pick it up and I'll have cash.:):)

Not sure how much you're going to spend on 1 new COP but this Motorcraft kit comes with all 6 of them for $180.00. I know the COPs in this kit are the right ones for our 2011 3.5s. $180.00 is a pretty good deal for 6 of them and it's nice to install 3 new ones in the back while you have the upper intake off.

Steven Avery got out and purchased an Edge????:):)

Not sure if this helps but I replaced the passenger mirror on my non heated 2008 Taurus with a heated version and it works. My guess would be that all Edges are wired for them.

My 35/5000 DDM Hids in my 2011 are still going strong after 7 years but I'd definitely look at some LEDs if they work as well as HIDs in our halogen projectors. I recently drove a friends 2011 with halogens and had forgotten how bad they are.

There's so much pad left on that one side that I'm guessing it's frozen. When I changed mine at around 60,000, one of my front pads was frozen and looked brand new. At that mileage I'd do a complete brake job front and rear. The rears wear out way faster then the fronts on my 2011. If you're doing it yourself, make sure to pull the pins and lube the crap out of them along with a little on the slides.

Nothing like living in a rust-belt. Make sure to cake that anti seize on there when ya put her back together!!!:):)

Make sure you go around and tap the rotor hard around the studs with the sledge toward the vehicle. Not to insult you, but some Ford rotors have a small allen screw holding the rotors on.

You can easily replace the H11 low beam bulb with a H9 and it makes a huge difference. Ya gotta shave off a little tab inside the H9's to make them fit. First thing I did when I owned my 2010.

If you're still looking, Discount Tire Direct has a decent deal on the Continental LX20s (245/60/18 $144.00 per tire) today. Flash sale $100.00, DT Credit Card $40.00 and $70.00 Continental rebate. So $210.00 off is pretty good these days. They'll always match this same deal at your local Discount Tire store. Rebates are really easy to do online and I got the prepaid cards in about 6 days.

I wouldn't have a fluid exchange done but wouldn't hesitate to do a quick drain and refill once or twice. I'f I remember correctly, a drain gets about 5 quarts out.

Sure it's not a mouse? I had to do an insurance claim cuz speedy had his way with the hood liner and foam engine cover.

Went from stock Latitudes to Yokohama YK 580s to Continental LX 20s. The Yokos were junk but I wouldn't hesitate to go with the Latitudes again. I got just over 60,000 out of the stock Michelins. Got about 10,000 on the Continentals so far and they've been just fine.

Does it go forward when you put it in reverse? Sorry, couldn't resist.:):):)

35 watt hids are super easy to install and make a tremendous difference in the 2011-2014s. My $40.00 DDM kit has been going strong for about 7 years.

For what it's worth, the original Latitudes on my 2011 lasted around 60,000 and the Yoko YK580's I replaced them with only lasted around 38,000. I've never had good luck with Yokohama tires. Right now I'm sporting a set of Continental LX22's that seem really good so far but I've only had them for about 10,000. If Latitudes weren't so ridiculously priced I'd probably stick with them. Getting ready to throw a set of Continental Pro-Contacts on the old Taurus soon.

I don't think it's uncommon for today's vehicles to wear out rear brakes before fronts but 20,000 miles seems crazy. I changed out the fronts and rears on my 2011 at 60,000 and the rears were definitely way more worn then the fronts. I'm sure pure city driving and driving habits can play a big part in brake wear. Do you drive like Speed Racer and never leave the City??:):)

I also live in a rust-belt but haven't had a weld problem like your pics show. That's serious rust ya got there and is the reason I keep mine under-coated. I did have both sway bar links go bad and replace them with Moogs. My Edge is also a 2011 with around 100,000 miles.

Not sure what brand you're using but Mac, along with others on this site, claim that Motorcraft strut mounts are the way to go. I'll be doing the struts on my 2011 eventually and will definitely stick with Motorcraft for the mounts regardless of the strut brand I use.

How does it sound?? I just picked up an amp with high level inputs so I can run a small sub by taping into the rear speaker leads. If you don't mind me asking, where did you tap into the rear speaker wires????

Mac, besides losing some oil between changes, is there any reason to change out the valve cover? I think I remember reading something about oil getting into the throttle body but not sure if it hurts anything.

Anyone have a problem with Wally full synthetic Supertech 5w20? Thinking about running it in my 2008 Taurus winter beater that has 85,000 miles on it.

Just ordered 4 sets of brake pads for my 2011 Edge SEL and 2008 Taurus. Pepboys was having a crazy sale on their in-house Prostop brand ($10.00 per set!!!). 3 of the sets are ceramic but the rear set for the Edge is listed as organic. Another strange thing is that both sets for the Taurus are made by Bosch but not the ones for the Edge. Is there a reason why the rear pads for the Edge are listed as organic? Did the Edge come from the factory with organic rear pads??? Was thinking of returning the one organic set and going with Ceramics. I realize that ceramic is not always the best choice of material but I do like how they don't dust. Pretty sure the last time I did the Edge's brakes I went with Thermos all the way around and they can be a little squeaky in the mornings.

Keep in mind that Fords can go into " limp mode" when something is wrong that can damage the engine or trans. Dash light will come on and ya won't have much engine power.