fishx65

Just wanted to say thanks for this Mod idea!!! I just did this to my 2010 and it turned out really nice. The sides on mine are 1/2" plywood and the cross member is a 1x2. It's a little tricky getting the sides to fit over some of the body caulk, wiring and a few floorboard curves but not bad. I used a jigsaw to cut a few chunks off the bottom so the sides would sit flush with the floor. Ya gotta get the height right because it supports the carpeted floor panel. Before I installed this structure, I laid down some of that automotive trunk carpet and painted the wood to match the interior trim panels. Tons of room for all the crap I take on my many hunting and fishing adventures!!!!!!!

I've been using this same combo for years in all my Fords that call for 5w20. Wallymart sells it cheap and seems to always have it in stock. Was thinking about switching to Mobil One 5w20 but I just don't see any reason to.

I've spent a lot of time in a 2010 and 2011 SEL. The 2011 center console looks really cool but it is a little wide and has lost a lot of functionality. I'm 6' and don't have any leg room problems but much prefer the 2010 console. It's nice to have that little storage tray!!!!!

Just finished installing a clear bumper protector. I've been using a product by Trimbrite for years to protect certain areas of the many vehicles I've owned. It's a thick clear vinyl that is removable. I did the bumper, sideview mirrors and headlights on my 2010 SEL. This product is not as optically clear as the bra products and is only good for flat surfaces. It's a very thick vinyl and does a very good job protecting anything it's applied to. http://www.amazon.com/Trimbrite-TRIMBRITE-T9020/dp/B000HNFCHQ I just picked up a roll at Pepboys for 20 bucks.

I just installed an AVS/Lund Bugflector II on my 2010. It looks to be identical to the weathertech. Fits perfect but I'm not to crazy about the funky wrap around design cuz it does not follow the lines of the headlights when looking at it from the sides. AVS/Lund also make one called the Aeroskin that looks very cool but it is actually double sided taped right to the outside of the hood. I might get a little crazy with the Dremel and try to get mine to look a little better. The Stampede a few posts up looks like a nice design.

Anyone figure this one out yet? Found this for F150's but have not had time to look at the Edge's wiring diagram yet. http://www.landstromsfoundry.com/html/tech-foglights.php

Awesome pics TR! I've never seen one of those mini fuse taps before. I alway just wrap some wire around a post and force it back in there. Gonna have to get me a few of those!!!!

My low mile 2010 does the same thing. I get a mild vibration when accelerating strong at all speeds but I can feel it most at highway speeds. Let off the gas and it goes away so it can't be tires or rims. My brother works at a Ford shop and did a little research for me. There is a TSB about engine vibration but I'm not sure what years it covers. He said something about a bracket that gets installed between the engine and body that can help. It's a mild vibration that I can live with so I'm gonna wait to see if more start to chime in here.

I would look into anything made by DEI (Directed Electronics) like a Viper. $150.00 should get you a basic remote starter installed including the bypass. A bypass that uses an extra key mounted under the dash instead of a bypass module will save you a nice chunk of change. My dad just had a basic DEI installed in his 2011 SEL at Auto One for $159.00 here in Michigan. The price included an extra key for the bypass.

2010 FWD SEL. Took a long highway journey and noticed my Edge has a bad habit. Motoring along at around 78 mph she will downshift fine when going up a mild incline but is really slow to upshift after cresting the hill. Even after heading downhill it take a long time to get an upshift. I found myself tapping the brake a lot to get her to upshift. This can't be good for MPG! I've had lots of vehicles in my life and never had one behave like this before. Normal or a trip to the stealership in order????

Looks great! Lots of questions for ya: What brand are the step bars? Pretty easy install? How much ground clearence do you lose with the bars? How much did the bars set you back? Do they seem pretty sturdy when you stand on them?

Just switched the 11's for a set of 9's in my 2010's lowbeams. I just went with the regular Sylvania H9's for 10 bucks a pop. Cutting off the extra tab is pretty simple but you have to take your time and make sure to get all the way down into the socket. If ya don't get deep enough, the clips won't lock when you go to install them. I just used an exacto knife. Have not had a chance to try them out yet but I did compare them after I did one side. The H9 is indeed a lot brighter then the 11. Should be a nice upgrade for those long, Northern Michigan, rides to the cabin. Lots of deers!!!!!

Thanks Dog! I'm getting ready for a "Do it yourself" undercoating and rustproofing job on a 2010. I don't think we know where the Edge is gonna rust out first yet cuz it is still a newer model. I'll definitely spend some extra time on the hood.

I'd guess 80% CC. Should add that I was trying to see how well she could do so I didn't stomp on her at all. Got a long Michigan UP trip coming up so I'll be checking MPG manually.

Just cranked out 500 miles on the highway. 75 mph, 73 degrees and rolling terrain. According to the computer I averaged 25mpg. Not to bad if the idiot gauge is even close to accurate. This is a 2010 SEL FWD with 10,000 miles on the odometer. Much better then the 03 5.4 liter F150 and pretty close to the 04 Taurus.

Not sure if anyone is interested but I found some low cost front mudflaps that work pretty good with no drilling required. I picked up a set of basic flat plastic Highland flaps at Pepboys for around $5.00. Highland number is 3905100-B. Not sure about other years but my 2010 SEL has two factory screws in the perfect place. I just took the factory screws out, made a cardboard template of the flap, marked the factory screw locations, drilled the holes through the Highland flaps and installed them . They mounted up perfect and look pretty darn good (Not to big!!!). Looks like they should add some decent protection to the lower body. Sorry, no pics.

It's an SEL that came with 18's. Just noticed that Monroe has the Sensatracs available for the rears of the Edge. Back in 2003 I replaced the stock Rancho labled shocks at about 6,000 miles on my new F150 (Off Road package) with Sensatracs and it made a pretty good difference in ride quality. Anyone try the Sensatracs yet? Also, I was reading that Ford retuned the suspension on the Edge for 2011. I wonder if they firmed it up a little. I've driven them both in the last few days and there is no question in my mind that the 10's ride is softer then the 11's. Michigan roads are like a test track for suspensions!!!!!!!!

I don't mind a "I told ya so" so I'll be sure to post when all the tires shred and she rolls over! Thanks for your replies. Bye-Bye now.

No, never wrecked. This vibration is very slight and most people would not even notice it but I've been into cars for a long time and kinda know when something does not feel right. I'm almost wondering if this is just normal engine vibration on the Edge. I checked for TSB's and nothing came up. It's something I can live with but I'll always know it's there.

Since the farthest they drive is about 5 miles in the city to the doctor or the local Bigboy at about 40mph I think they will be OK with an extra 360lbs and 5 psi low. Anyone know what psi will trigger the low pressure warning system??

I always put some WD40 on a soft rag and wipe down the front end and mirrors before each trip to my Northern Michigan cabin. The bugs will spray right off and this method has never damaged the paint. I always purchase white vehicles and a thousand bugs on the front end never looks good.