fishx65

Besides the monster gap those do look pretty good for 108. I just changed a set on the old hunt camp Jeep Liberty and was surprised it was still running on them!!!!

What mileage did you replace your 3.5's spark plugs at and how did they look?? I'm approaching 80,000 and was thinking it might be time.

My 4 year old 35/5000 DDM kit is still kickin but I did have to warranty a bad ballast during the first year. Probably the best fifty bucks I've spent on her!!

I broke my little gear indicator led light when I ran a wire to have my center consul power point turn off with the ignition .

This has been happening to many models of Fords for a really long time. I went through this with a 2004 Taurus.

Got a chance to mess with her tonight. Did the test in the video and my purge valve tested bad. Installed a new one from Autozone ($26.99 and Lifetime Warranty) and disconnected the positive battery cable for 10 minutes. So far no messages or engine light:). It takes less then 5 minutes to change out the purge valve.

Great vid on how to check for a bad purge valve:

Oops, got this throttle body recall mixed up with a valve cover baffle problem I read about which could cause oil consumption. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/17714-oil-in-throttle-body/

Just found out that there's a throttle body recall on my 2011 3.5. Not sure if there's a mileage limit but I'm approaching 80,000 miles. Sounds like the malfunction can cause oil usage and I'm definitely having to add about 2 quarts between 6,000 mile changes. Anyone take theirs in for this and did you notice any excess oil consumption??

Factor, let me know what happens to yours and I'll do the same. I took a look to see where the purge valve is located and, if I'm not mistaking, it's on the drivers side sitting right on top of the motor back by the firewall. Looks like it's super easy to replace. I also stopped by the dealer to see if there was a recall for the evap system but there isn't. I did find out that there's a recall on my throttle body which sounds like they will inspect it and replace if necessary .

Tried cleaning the inlet already to no avail but I'll try it again using the method in the vid. I wonder if the warning system is setup to show the warning message for a while before throwing the engine light.

2011 SEL with 75,000 miles. Been getting the "check fuel inlet" warning for a few weeks and now the check engine light is on. It's throwing an evap code. Pretty safe to assume it's the evap purge valve??? If so, I'll just go ahead and replace it myself.

I'm gonna crawl under there in the next couple of days with a grease needle and will be sure to hit the SB bushings if possible. Other option is to strap myself underneath while someone drives me around to locate the noise.

Still Creakin.

Both links installed and she's been quiet so far . I should have ripped open the boots on the old links to see how dry they were but I pitched them.

Got the $20.00 JPN links in the mail and they look and feel like a quality part. They are very similar in design to the Moogs with the same beefy build. Only had time to install one side so far but it's a pretty easy job if ya have the right tools. My best friend is a Dremel with a cutoff disc!!!!!

I have to agree with Omar, it's definitely worth checking out the 11-15 Lincoln MKX. I have put lots of miles on a 2011 Edge and a 2014 MKX. Prices can be pretty close between these two on the used market and I personally think the MKX is way nicer. Lincoln vehicles seem to drop in value more then others when driven off the new car lot and this is something you can really take advantage of. The Lincoln's interior materials/design, ride quality and interior noise level is what really separates it from the Edge.

I recently changed the pads and rotors on my 2011 SEL at 62,000 miles. One of the outside front pads must have been frozen in it's clip since new cuz it had zero wear.

Cheaped out and ordered a set of links on ebay for 20 bones. They look a little beefier then most and have grease fittings so maybe they're decent. http://www.ebay.com/itm/221777391501?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I've driven Fords for over 30 years and never purchased the extended warranty. Luckily I've never had any major problems and have the mechanical ability to handle most minor and some major repairs myself. The old art of do-it-yourself car maintenance and repair has pretty much died with the younger generations so I do think it's a good idea for most consumers to pick up the extended warranty these days if they plan on keeping a vehicle past 36,000 miles.

I'm sure Ford has figured out that it's a better financial move to extend the warranty, replace boosters as they fail and hope nobody gets killed. All about the green!!!

I'm cool, only one knee, one shoulder and the lower back creak but it's only in the mornings.

That fancy all chrome look really is pretty cool. Mine is getting pretty bad so I might speed up the process a bit and go Chrome. I do have a brand new one sitting in a drawer that the dealership handed to me under warranty a few years ago.

Znow, the caliper dust boot comment gets my attention because I only hear the creaking when braking from a slow role. I assume you're referring to the caliper piston dust boot? Mine were pretty dirty when I did the brakes a few months ago but, after cleaning them up, they did compress without distorting when I turned the piston back in. Also, I would think that bad sway bar links would make a lot of noise when going over speed bumps at slow speeds at various angles. I'm not getting the typical noises I've gotten from previous vehicles with bad sway bar links. This noise sounds like a door closing very slowly that's in desperate need of grease. I started noticing it about a year ago and it's gotten worse lately.

Thanks Mac, I'm gonna take a look this week. Might try spraying the crap out of the sway bar links with penetrating lube just to see if the sound goes away. Just watched your sway bar link replacement video and decided that you need to keep a nice pair of mechanics gloves handy. Did you end up removing the zerk fittings because of contact issues or did you just leave them in there???