fishx65

I'd try to figure out which wire in the headlight harness powers the shield that opens and closes to see if it's getting power. Not sure if it has it's own fuse.

Kinda sad because I find the Edge the perfect sized SUV for my usage. Probably gonna look at a 4Runner next year.

The TPMS sensors on my 2011 finally started dying in December so I decided to go with factory Schraders from Amazon. I paid $30.00 each for the sensors and had Discount tire install them for $20.00 each. There was a 2023 date code on each sensor and I assume they were taken off wrecked vehicles. The originals lasted 13 years so I figured OEM was the way to go.

I just went through this on my 2011. Had about a gallon stuck in there and the blower would shoot water around every time I turned left. I'm assuming all the water would eventually kill the blower motor but I unclogged the drain tube immediately after noticing the issue. The Edge's blower is really easy to access and replace.

Wow, lucky she was still under warranty:):)

I've tried 3 purge valves from Autozone and they all sounded like machine guns.

Thanks 1004. Ran codes and it didn't show any for the purge valve but I just swapped in a new one anyway. It did show pending codes for bank 1 & 2 02 sensors (P2198 and P2196). Cleared the codes after installing the new purge valve and all seems fine now:)

I'm just using a cheap reader I purchased from Amazon. I have noticed that my purge valve is getting pretty noisy so I'm gonna head up to the Zone right now and get a warranty replacement. Thinking I should have used a Motorcraft part in the first place:(

I've had this 2011 3.5 since new and it's been maintained extremely well. She just hit 146,000. Was stopped at a light this morning and it started lightly surging forward and backward. RPM gauge was also jumping a little. It didn't throw any codes and seemed to be a little sluggish until I got it home. Anyone ever experience something like this? Any ideas?

I'm guessing something wasn't tightened properly or one of the new parts already failed. I would start by checking the strut pinch bolts and upper mount bolts. Have someone watch the strut assembly while you bounce each side. Also, read about diagnosing a bad shock with the bounce test.

Check your coolant level. Not sure if the Edge works the same but I have a Jeep Liberty at the cabin that won't blow heat until about 2000 RPM every time the coolant gets low.

I'd wire brush it the best you can, prime the bad areas, spray a very light coat of rubberized undercoating on the entire chassis and then spray everything you can with a few cans of Fluid Film every fall. I live in a nasty rust belt and have done this since purchasing my 2011 SEL brand new and she still looks great underneath. I have gotten some rust along that lower rocker seam because it's really difficult to spray between the metal that's spot welded there. Also, it's a good idea to spray some rustproofing inside and outside of all the bottom door, hood and tailgate seams. I use a product called Amber Rustproofing. It doesn't take much time for annual rust prevention maintenance and it's definitely worth it if you live in a salt belt.

99% chance that it's the purge valve. I'd just go ahead and replace it cuz they're cheap and take about 5 minutes to replace. I actually replaced mine in the Autozone parking lot:) Toss your receipt in the glove compartment cuz I think Autozone is lifetime on these and I had mine replaced once.

There could be two blend door actuators on the drivers side. I had to replace the upper one on my 2008 Taurus and it was a bear.

Has anyone here ever tried to shim their headlights on a 11-14 for better horizontal adjustment? My 11 SEL came from the factory with the passenger beam pointing toward the middle of the vehicle. I know there's no horizontal adjustment so I've been thinking about pulling the front bumper and trying to shim the housing.