johnmarkp

I was surprised when I did the work. The right nut was close to the 150 ft/lb spec. The left one was not near the spec. I am not sure where it was at, but I was able to tighten it with little effort on the breaker bar. My guess is that the torque was well under 100 ft/lb and maybe even under 50. I can see how tightening the axle nuts can reduce the clunking by stretching the CV joint out. But what is the permanent solution? New axles, CV joints or both? I have the extended warranty until Feb of next year. I want to keep the car. Do I loosen them back to where they were and go to the dealer again. I really miss the days when most dealers had one or more senior mechanics. Who had been doing it for years and could diagnose something like this in their sleep. Now most mechanics are untrained parts changers.

No it did not sound like that.

I retorqued the axle nuts and the sound has gone away. I was getting from both sides. I guess this means that the CV joints are loose. Now I need to figure out how to get new ones under my extended warranty. Thanks for the help.

Thanks, I will give it a try. Do you know the torque spec for the axle nut?

After three weeks of driving I really like the Scorpian AS Plus 3. Very little road noise if any most of the time. They handle great. I have not driven them in heavy rain yet. In minor rain they were fine. Hopefully I will not have to test them in snow, here in Wisconsin for a while. I would buy these again.

I took it to the dealer and of coarse they did not hear it. Next time I will ride with them. I have six more months on the warranty, so I hope to get it figured out soon.

After two weeks I am very happy with the Powerstop rotors and pads. The shudder went away. I had to do a near panic stop this week and the brakes worked great. At least as good as OEM. The Geomet rotors look great as well.

Thanks, I have been babying the brakes. Maybe it is time to be more aggressive.

When I was doing a brake job on the car. I grabbed the CV half shafts and tried to move them. Both would move in and out slightly. (in line with the direction of the shaft). The right one gave a clicking sound when I did this. Kind of like what I was hearing in the car. Could this be the problem? My guess is no. The sound seems to be temperature dependent. We have had unusually cool weather the last few days and the sound is less noticeable. I did not seem to get much worse as the car heated up.

I have about 200 miles on the new brakes. I sometimes get a shudder, growling noise in the last 1 mph when I stop. Hopefully this will go away with further use.

Finally got the time to install the rotors and pads I got in June on my ST. Not that hard to do if you have the right tools. The 7mm and 11mm Allen sockets and the 18mm standard socket are not normally found in most tool sets you buy. A 1/2 inch impact wrench is also a good idea to have for the job. I can't find the thread here, but the idea to use a bolt through the holes for the anchor plate to remove the rotors is spot on. Both front rotors would not budge using a rubber mallet. I only had time to do the break in. So I cannot comment on how they function yet. The front pads had a lot of life left and the rotors were in pretty good shape. The rear pads were completely worn out and needed to be changed. I'll report back on how the brakes perform.

Giving us more information will help a lot. The model year is a good start. Also I wider photo of the area where the plug is.

I got the Scorpion AS PLUS 3s installed yesterday. Its too soon to be sure about the tires. My initial impression is good. They are definitely softer then the Goodyear Eagles I had before. Road noise is very low. Expansion joint noise is about the same, not bad but still there. Handling seems to be pretty good. I think I will lose the last bit of handling near the edge of the ST's capabilities. But I don't push it too far in my old age, so no great loss. I'll come back with more when I get some miles on them.

I just ordered 4 Pirelli Scorpion AS PLUS 3 tires from Tirerack. I hope to get them installed soon. I'll report back on how they perform.

The more I think about it. The clicking sound when I jacked up the wheel is probably normal when the car is in park. I think I have heard it before. The clunk when slowing down is slowly getting worse. Time to a drive to the dealer. Luckily it is still under the Ford extended warranty.

They look good, but the 20k mileage is just too low.

With on side of the car jacked up I get a clicking sound when I move the front wheel back and forth in the direction of rotation. It is the same for both wheels. (the other front wheel is on the ground). Is this normal? I can't remember if it made this sound in the past.

I have looked at virtually all the tire reviews for the ST. Most are centered on performance and/or mileage. I am looking for tires that give the quietest and most comfortable ride. I have the 20 inch wheels.

I just started getting a clunk sound when I take my foot off the gas. I also get it when I am slowing to a stop at a couple of miles per hour. I will put it up on stands tomorrow and check the CV joints and anything else I can wiggle on the front end. Has anyone has a similar thing happen?

I had the it mixed up with another car remote. I would not be too worried about the electrical components. They are probably all surface mount components. The only risk is shorting out the contact legs with crap from the detergent. The big risk is to the switches. They are most likely film contact switches. Crud could get trapped in between the plastic cover and the membrane and prevent the switches from working mechanically. I would leave it in distilled or RO water for a couple of minutes and press all the buttons many times while under water to get all the detergent out. I am a bit OCD so I would probably do this three or four times. Then soak in alcohol a couple of times and let it dry for a couple of hours. I would not wait to do this because any left over detergent will be harder to get out with more time.

The case can be taken apart. Just look for the directions for replacing the battery in the key fob.

You can get the connector and or a repair pigtail from Ford at a very steep price. That connector and the connection pins are commercially available. The problem is figuring out who made the connector. I start out by getting the Ford part number from the wiring diagram and searching for that number. Often an ad will tell you the part number for the manufacturer of the connector. A lot of them are made by Molex. The listing on for connector on sites like Digikey will tell you the connection pins that fit into the connector.

Does anyone have any idea how to do the initialize to vehicle thing? Or any other work around for that matter. I am stuck on this project.

Thanks. Lots of differences. I will have plenty to do on rainy days.😊

I did not get it to show up. I confirmed that it was powered up and I am 99% sure that the CAN2 was hooked up properly as well. I assume that the profile characteristics are in as built database. I cannot figure out how to fool the system. It would be interesting to compare my 2019 ST with a 2019 Nautilus with and without Adaptive suspension. Can we still get the as built data by VIN number? I don't remember how to view the as built data, can someone remind me?