johnmarkp

The one above is the "L" version, which is longer then the normal Edge. They also make the normal size Edge. Both are related to the Lincoln Nautilus, which is of course available in the US.

It looks like Ford is selling the Chinese Edge in the Caribbean and Asian regions. https://www.caribe.ford.com/en/sur/suvs/edge/

I agree with DGW. I have no interest in the Bronco or the Explorer. Over the years I had three Edges for my company car and we now own two in our retirement. The Edge was the perfect vehicle for us. Its a shame that Ford has abandoned so many loyal customers.

I have this fantasy that Ford will bring the Edge back to the US now that their push to electric cars has stalled. I will admit it is pretty unlikely.

I would pull the light out and disconnect the power. Probably a good idea to secure the loose wiring somewhere.

I think it is reasonable to think that the full PSCM AsBuilt is different between models. However it is not unreasonable to think that many sections are the same. Code is often recycled. Not need to re-type all the code needed when you have a large percentage of it already written. Most of the hardware used in the electrical system is the same. With each modules firmware customized for the model it is used in.

I used the Forscan method that Omar posted in this thread on June 12 of 2021. No start stop and no BMS warning.

Well I have a little egg on my face. The offer was legit and it is a Ford program. I still did not like how things started where I was pushed to talk to sales. Out of curiosity, I did call them. The person I talked to was pleasant and helpful, not at all what I expected. The big problem is the cost, $2400 a year for my 2019 with 95K. I get that that age and mileage are factors in the cost. I don't think I am going to do it. But it has given me something to think about.

I just got a notice from Ford that I could extend my Blue Advantage service plan. I least I think it was from Ford. I go to the web site and put in the reference number I got from them. It would not work, there was a problem. The message said I should join a Chat to resolve the issue. Of course they wanted my email address, for no good reason. When I got on line with the Chat lady I was told that she could not solve the issue and that I needed to talk to one of there sales reps. I wonder if this web site works at all or if it is designed to fail so I have to call one of their sales reps. A high pressure sales rep, I am sure. This is total BS and makes me want to buy anything but a Ford for my next car. When did flat out lying to your customers become standard business practice.

You need to make the harness from under the left head light to the center of the bumper. 4 wires. positive, negative, Can+ and Can-. The two CAN wires should be twisted. 18 or 20 gauge for the power is more then enough. If I had to do it again I would use a Cat5 wire. Use one of the pairs for the CAN. I would use a twisted pair for each power wire. For example: Blue Can+ Blue/White Can- Orange and Orange/White Positive Brown and Brown/White Negative This is an easy, but time consuming job, if you have experience with electrical work and basic mechanical skills. However, this is not a beginner project. You can do a lot of damage to the front bumper and wiring harness if you are not careful.

I think you will have to run new wires. The lights will draw at least 12 amps. The wires for the fog lights were not designed for this high of a load.

I have the official printed version of the wiring diagram for the 2018 Edge. There is a good chance it is the same as the 2017. It shows that there is only one version of the wiring diagram for the headlamps. I think this is a pretty reliable source. It shows many instances where there are different wiring schemes for different equipment on the car. There are three fuses. F62 and F67. Both are 50amp that go to the BCM. One for each side. The third is a shared 10 amp, F20. (this might be for the HID igniter). I think there is a very good chance that they will work with the existing hardware and require a change with Forscan only.

I was surprised when I did the work. The right nut was close to the 150 ft/lb spec. The left one was not near the spec. I am not sure where it was at, but I was able to tighten it with little effort on the breaker bar. My guess is that the torque was well under 100 ft/lb and maybe even under 50. I can see how tightening the axle nuts can reduce the clunking by stretching the CV joint out. But what is the permanent solution? New axles, CV joints or both? I have the extended warranty until Feb of next year. I want to keep the car. Do I loosen them back to where they were and go to the dealer again. I really miss the days when most dealers had one or more senior mechanics. Who had been doing it for years and could diagnose something like this in their sleep. Now most mechanics are untrained parts changers.

No it did not sound like that.

I retorqued the axle nuts and the sound has gone away. I was getting from both sides. I guess this means that the CV joints are loose. Now I need to figure out how to get new ones under my extended warranty. Thanks for the help.