akirby

Pretty sure you have to activate AA from sync 3.

Topic moved to the appropriate forum. The help forum is for help navigating or using the website.

Sync 3 is warranties for 3 yrs/36k miles just like everything else. Extended warranties are always a gamble - they may or may not save you money on any specific vehicle and over the long haul it’s cheaper to insure yourself.

Only if you let off the throttle.

They made money but that is still a good deal. There are over $4K in rebates right now on the 2017s.

The last one is probably a check or parity digit used to validate and identify corruption. It's calculated by performing some arithmetic or bitwise function on the preceding digits.

You’re not trying to put out the fire you’re trying to buy a little time for the occupant to get out.

But those arent using LED bulbs. Theyre using custom designed LED systems. Oops - TheWizard beat me to it. Sorry.

Did you get the 2.3 release from the Ford website? If so it should be covered by warranty. If it was bootleg/unofficial then it makes sense they wouldn't cover it. BTW it's not a controller that needs to be replace it's just the usb port/hub. Ford made this very clear with the Sync 2.0 update and you can DIY. Lots of threads on it.

Oh I agree with let it burn once it starts causing damage if there is nobody in danger and nothing important you need to save in the vehicle. But sometimes you can catch it before it does any damage. One time back in college we had an old F100 delivery truck with a straight six. It was almost dead - we never had to change the oil because it used about a quart every few days. It was running low on oil and got really hot. I pulled over on a country dirt road to add more oil, spilled some on top of the engine and it caught on fire. I had to throw sand on it. Made it back to town but just barely.

Can't go wrong with Michelins but they are pricey. Check tirerack.com for user ratings - they're usually spot on as long as there are a lot of miles driven.

Benny at Levittown Ford.

Gas is gas but the additives are obviously different and I think that's what Top Tier is mostly concerned with - detergents, etc.

I had a coworker who did computer hardware support. His favorite saying was "if you smell smoke, fan it". That said there could be situations where an extinguisher would come in handy if people can't get out of the car (yours or someone else's) or if it's something really simple.

I'm not sure the "premium has more detergents" aspect is still true, at least with top tier vendors. I thought I had read the detergent levels were mostly the same now but I could be wrong.

Have you tried replacing the battery?

If it shifts torque to the rear and no slippage occurs then it shouldn’t need to engage traction control. You can turn off traction control but don’t torque brake and spin the wheels - just floor it and go.

I’ve had batteries replaced in my Fusion and a 2012 Focus and neither one required removing anything to get the battery out. It is hard to reach the terminal bolt though.

Maybe the controller is just fubar’d. Try disconnecting the battery cable for a few minutes just to reset everything. Did you by chance have it set on Max Defrost? Some have that function and some don’t.

Only the negative cable is hard to reach and there should be a remote stud for that right next to the battery on the shock tower. Follow the wiring. If you think the Edge is bad you should look at an Escape.

Well below 32 the A/C isn't dehumidifying the air anyway so what's the point? It's already dehumidified by the cold. Were you by chance using the recirculate button? If so that's the problem. Not sure what you mean with the temp control.

A poor design that's solved with a $5 cable. And your problem was obviously a defective radio. But now that you're returned it I guess it's a moot point.

We've tried to tell you over and over that your stereo was defective because the Sony radio - while not the best - is not anywhere near as bad as yours sounded. I don't understand why you wouldn't try to get that problem fixed but I guess that's all water under the bridge now. Good luck.

Yes it sounds like an alignment problem assuming the wear is continuous and not cupped which would indicate a bad shock. You can probably find a coupon for a local alignment shop or just wait and replace the tires later.

I figured you knew that but wanted to make sure others didn't misinterpret it.