akirby

There should be a special stored destination location called home. It has to be in the setup or destination menu somewhere.

What options are on your MKX and what were the lease terms/cost if you don't mind me asking?

Nope - they're all black. I'm sure it was to address the glare problem with the light dash. I think it looks a lot better. You should go look at one before making a final judgement.

No, it doesn't. You're confusing turning it off when you start to back up (which only lasts until you restart the vehicle) with going into the setup menu and turning it off permanently.

Fusion 16" wheels should fit but I can't guarantee it.

Just a thought - do you have speed sensitive volume control turned on? You could try setting it to 0 just for fun. Otherwise it sounds like a bug.

Why pay $300 for a mirror? If you have the module it just needs a 12V power source and a convenient mounting spot. I bought a homelink equipped sun visor for a Maxima off Ebay and cut out the module, then mounted it in my Fusion's sun visor. If I could have figured out how to get the fabric off without cutting it then it would look just like a factory job. I just dremeled out a spot for it to the right of the mirror and spliced the wires into the lighted mirror wires. And it only cost $40.

It can take 3000-5000 miles (you do the conversion) for the engine to break in and provide maximum fuel economy.

The instructions say to press the voice key to interrupt the Sync instruction.

Did you try turning them around backwards? Several people have done this and been very satisfied.

If it's the angled one on the bottom of the door like my fusion - I've used it several times. You can put any bottled drink in there and even fast food cups if they have a lid and aren't too full. Came in handy when I bought 3 Wendy's Frostys one night.

That is the Stone interior - I have it on my 06 Fusion. The carpet is the same color as the door panel. You could easily go with a charcoal floor mat if you're worried about stains. Otherwise it's not too hard to keep clean.

Was it USB 2.0 compatible? If you connect it to only the USB port on your home PC does it work?

There is nothing in the order guide that says it's restricted so the answer is yes - unless they've imposed a late restriction based on wheel availability but I haven't heard that yet. Where did you hear it?

Maybe if you're willing to take a vehicle the dealer wants to get rid of or one that is selling slowly. If a dealer sells you a Ford on X plan they're making the 3% holdback minus about $100 plus the spiff check from Ford which I think is around $400. If they sell you the same vehicle let's say, $100 below X plan price, then they make 3% holdback minus $200 - period. No spiff check. What most people either don't realize or simply overlook is without X plan the dealer can charge a documentation fee (usually around $400) and they can keep dealer cash or include factory rebates in that price that they would not otherwise be able to do on a X plan sale. Unless you get a true "out the door" X plan price and compare it to a non X plan "out the door" price then you don't really know if you beat the X plan price or not because the dealer can play games and hide fees. Not saying it isn't possible, but it's highly improbable that you'd beat the real X plan price out the door on a popular vehicle.

The USB port is the Sync interface. The audio plug is the non-SYNC generic interface.

You call it low-balling - I would call it right-balling. The closer to retail you pay for the car the higher the trade-in value. This isn't because your trade-in is worth more - the dealer is just moving your discount out of the new car price and into the trade-in value. If you're paying close to retail you should expect a retail trade-in value. If you're paying wholesale (or close to it) then you should only expect a wholesale trade-in value. Your trade-in is really only worth wholesale anyway. Why would a used car manager give you $15,000 for a car he can go buy at auction any day of the week for $12,500? Now if you just ask for a trade-in appraisal stand alone instead of it being baked into a retail purchase then that should be ok. But it wouldn't really be fair to the dealer to get a price of $1000 over invoice with one trade-in value and expect to get X plan pricing and still get the same trade-in value. You can do retail/retail or wholesale/wholesale but not wholesale purchase/retail trade-in. What you can do is shop around for the best trade-in price since the A/Z/X plan price for the vehicle will be the same anywhere.

Are you saying the vent can't be adjusted left/right and up/down?

You have 2 options - wait for a PIN from an employee, then go shopping and give the dealer your PIN OR Go shopping now, tell the dealer you'll be getting an X plan pin and then get one before you take delivery. The dealers usually won't have a problem telling you the X plan price without a PIN. If they do then we can look up prices for you on in-stock vehicles. The only thing you're not supposed to do is negotiate for the vehicle first, then pull out the PIN. You need to tell the dealer upfront that you'll be using X plan.

I'm not an employee (I get my pins through the Ford Pattner program) but my understanding is that the PIN counts against your allotment when it's issued, not when it's used. So you can issue 4 this year with none of them used and you'll get 4 more in January regardless of what happens with the previous 4. Of course you should check with the employee plan admin site or other employees to be sure but I'm 98% sure that's the case.

Absolutely correct, except that an issued PIN is good for 1 year from the date of issue, not until the end of the year. Maybe you could explain this to macaw who thinks his dealer is actually selling him a vehicle at $150 under the X plan price. I told him the dealer wouldn't do that on a popular vehicle unless he was keeping rebates or adding big documentation fees but he doesn't believe me.

You forgot adaptive headlamps and THX II.

You're the one with no facts. Tell me where I'm wrong.

Sure he did. Then he's going to add a $400 documentation fee and maybe some "dealer accessories" to make up for it. Or he's taking it out of the trade-in. Or he's keeping the rebate. None of which is allowed under X plan rules. The dealer gets a spiff check from Ford on every A/X/Z plan sale. X plan is also below invoice on Fords. Why would a dealer give up the spiff check and sell you a vehicle $250 below actual invoice (eating into the holdback) on a popular vehicle? Unless you're getting a special deal from the owner - not likely. Any regular incentive you'd qualify for on a normal purchase are still applicable to X plan purchases. Some special rebates (like AQHA) can't be used but there are sometimes special plan only rebates available that make X plan even better. These are typically done when the mfr is offering dealer incentives that aren't advertised. They are not deceiving. Invoice is invoice - that's what Ford charges the dealer. Of course the dealer gets up to 3% back on the holdback but the advertising fees on the invoice are 100% legitimate. The dealer pays this to Ford on each vehicle and then Ford gives that money to the local dealer association to cover local dealer ads. The dealer doesn't keep any of that money or the fuel surcharge, etc. There is nothing deceptive about it. Unless you have a special arrangement with the owner or you're buying a vehicle that the dealership really, really wants to get rid of - you're not going to beat X plan.

You asked for all opinions, so here goes. I think it's nuts to spend that much money to change brand new wheels and tires. I understand the desire and in most cases I think they do look good, but anything over 20" starts to degrade braking, fuel economy and acceleration because the wheels are too heavy. It might be different if the OEM wheels were ugly or tiny, but they're not. Then again, it's your money - or should I say it's you and your wife's money.