akirby

You can't tell by the sequence number - it's all relative to how many vehicles were built and how fast, and when they started the model year, etc. You'd have to find a Ford database somewhere and that won't be publicly accessible. You're not likely to find an Edge that's been sitting for more than a month or two.

All you had to do was google "ford vin decoder" and you'd get this page: https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/VIN_tools/default.asp You can only get the model year and a sequence number, not the build date. The only thing you can say for sure is that a lower sequence number was built before a higher sequence number. The sequence number is not unique to one vehicle (e.g. Edge) - it's unique to the assembly line. So sequence # 42000 might be an Edge, 42001 a MKX, 42002 another MKX, 42003 Edge and so on. The build date is printed on the door jamb sticker on the vehicle itself. Why do you need to know?

You can certainly touch it up yourself which will make it much less noticeable AND prevent rust. For that size area you need to mask off just the scratched area, prime it, sand it, then use a base/clear coat spray if available (paintscratch.com is a good source, but that is a rare color). Let the clear coat dry for a few days and then buff and polish it. If done right you won't be able to notice it from a few feet away, but it will be noticeable up close. It will require a body shop to fix properly which will include repainting an entire panel or section. Good luck. Edit - I checked and they do have that paint code (NH) available at paintscratch.com. Up to you whether you want to try it or not.

Sorry - forgot that.

It's right there in the message center - just hit INFO until it shows up. Reset it when you fill up.

If you do want to repair it yourself (even if it's temporary), just use a touch up brush and only fill in the scratch. I bought the spray can touch up kit with color and clearcoat and tried to touch up some scratches on my 2000 Lincoln LS (Autumn Red). I started with a small section right around the scratch, then ended up going wider and wider to blend it in. By the time I was done I had almost repainted the whole side of the car. When I traded it in I had to convince them that it hadn't been wrecked. They ended up repainting the entire side of the car. Unless you're a professional painter, don't do more than just fill in the scratch and buff it down.

I type faster and think less........

This is a non-issue - all automatics have a certain amount of "roll" based on how the parking pawl is engaged. Some have more play than others. Park is not a substitute for using the parking brake. The parking brake totally stops the vehicle from rolling, just as it was intended to do. Anyone who doesn't use it is asking for trouble. End of discussion.

Ditto!

That may be true but it's more likely that it's unintended - the presence of the AWD components probably forced a different tank location and/or shape which ended up being larger.

A few miles per gallon (or liters per kilometer) will never save you enough to offset the cost of trading in a new vehicle and taking a huge depreciation hit. You'd be losing thousands of dollars in depreciation to save a few hundred in gasoline. This engine takes 3k-5k to break in and deliver maximum mpg. You should also be resetting the computer fuel efficiency readout periodically, especially when you fill up. The distance to empty will change based on your recent fuel economy. Next time you fill up, reset the mpg readout and watch it as you drive.

Try speaking directly at the rear view mirror - that's where the microphone is.

I test drove the 20's and they rode fine, but I went with the 18's. Surprisingly - the 20" pirellis are actually cheaper than the 18" Michelins. Today at least. Not sure about treadwear - if the 20's don't have as much tread they'll need to be replaced more often and thus might cost more in the long run.

Can't go wrong with Infinity or Polk Audio. See crutchfield.com for compatible sizes and speakers.

It won't happen to me because I use the parking brake. Why would you park on an incline without it?

Due out next year as a 2010 model.

That's easy to fix - switch the readout to something else.......

It will get better after 5K miles or so, but this depends mostly on how you drive. Try this: when you reset your mpg also reset your avg mph, then check it when you check your fuel economy. My daily commute is on side streets, mostly 45-50 mph with stop signs and traffic lights. I only average 25 mph. With your driving you may only see 15 avg mph and that will give you crappy fuel mileage. What was your mileage on your previous vehicle on the same route?

Bingo.

Yes.

Unless you're stuck in deep mud or snow, or you're trying to push the vehicle to the limits of cornering - there is no need to turn it off - ever. Traction Control - keeps the wheels from spinning if traction is lost Electronic Stability Control - prevents the vehicle from understeering or oversteering while cornering by applying brakes to usually one wheel and/or cutting engine power Roll Stability Control - adds a sensor to anticipate a potential rollover situation and applies one or more brakes and/or cuts engine power to prevent it Leave it on and forget about it unless you're stuck in deep mud or snow.

It's one of those things that you may never need to use, but the one time you do need it you REALLY need it - otherwise you'd be stuck.

You didn't look very hard - there is an entire section on Traction Control, Electronic Stability Control and Roll Stability Control in the manual under Driving->Driving Controls (pages 216-219 in the 2007 manual). Traction control prevents the wheels from spinning. If you're in deep snow or mud you might need to turn it off to allow one wheel to spin freely and dig down in the snow or mud to find traction. You should never *need* to turn off stability control, but some people do so they can drive more aggressively (which, ironically, is probably when you need it the most).

Call a dealer.

No - the Edge and MKX are on a different refresh schedule and are not related to the Fusion/Milan/MKZ refreshes. I believe they get a refresh next fall for the normal 2010 models.